Help replace bearings

[cheeseman1969]

Hello all. I replaced wheel bears 2 years ago. I have about 4000-5000 miles on them and my vibrations came back. So thinking that I did something wrong. My first time doing that one and had to borrow tools to get it done.
I stopped at the Honda dealer tonight and ask a ballpark figure. He said $180 for labor (not a problem on that) but then said like $180 -$200 for the bearings, O rings and seals. WOW!! I bought bearings through a MC store and it was no more that $100. They where not the cheap chinese either as I have an uncle who knows bearings as he sells them. He told me what to get. So I know I have gotten good ones.
This prices seems way high.
Does anyone have a good Valkyrie Mechanic around Nebraska? The bike is way driveable so will just drive there on a Sat/Sun. Help change out the bearings, learn alot and drive back home. Also want to check out the final drive at the same time. Just in case. KS, IA or even SD would work too. Excuss to get out on the road anyway. LOL

[Valker]

Doubtful that it's the bearings again. Most likely is the tires. Does it happen most when slightly cornering at speed? Have you checked the driveshaft/cup matchup? Does it mostly happen when rolling off the throttle? Last one means maybe u-joint.

[cheeseman1969]

It happens when I am turning the throttle up. At 50ish I start to feel it on the handlebars just barely. I feel it in my feet (with out boots) around 65-70. The whole time if I am on the throttle. Once I roll off it and just stay at speeds over 60-65, I just feel it, barely, but once I go up to 75-80, feel it more.

[old2soon]

Just did rear wheel bearings and a U-joint on mine-103000 miles of which I put 67000 + on. When on the lift does the rear wheel have any lateral play? Unless you got REALLY el cheapo bearings OR they got installed wrong-doubtful-4-5000 miles is a extremely short bearing life. Well I say doubtful and I have Zero idea of who or how they got installed.  My bad. RIDE SAFE.

[97BLKVALK]

Hey if your interested in riding Inzane will be going on next week in Spearfish SD.   Check with big BF maybe he could help you out.

Michael

[Attic Rat]

It  is possible for the bearing to fail again. If they were driven in. I have seen several bearing driven in and damage when installed. That is why I built a press to press them in. Ask Old too soon about it I installed his rear wheel bearings last Sunday

[cheeseman1969]

I installed the bearing and did not press in, as did not have that tool. I have the spacers (?) and tried to hammer them in straight. Thanks for the names, I will look them up.

[hubcapsc]

I installed the bearing and did not press in, as did not have that tool. I have the spacers (?) and tried to hammer them in straight. Thanks for the names, I will look them up.

I'm not sure what "the spacers" are... I successfully (tens of thousands of miles) hammered some in using
a socket as a driver. Such a socket needs to be smaller than the bore and not so
small as to contact anything other than the outer ring of the bearing.

I don't think much of "the socket method".

I have the Honda tool now, it works great, but is still a driver...

There's different sized "attachments" for different bearings, put the right sized
attachment onto the driver handle and the bearing goes in easy and it is
real apparent when it is properly seated.



-Mike

[cheeseman1969]

Yes, that is very, very similar to what I have. A driver bar(?) and then differ spacers. I just found the one that fit just inside the hole, but covered the bearing then drove it in. I do remember at times that I had to hit one side or the other as it was off just slightly at times too. I also did the freeze on the bears too.

[Attic Rat]

There is a plastic cage  inside the bearing that holds the balls in place. You have to be really careful not to break the plastic cage that holds the bearings in the in the race. I have used that tool many times. That is why I built a small press. It is very simple I used two big washers about an 1 inch thick that I got from my buddy that owns a nut and bolt company. I then bought a big bolt and used a coupler nut. I Took old bearings and ground down the o/d so it would fit inside the wheel thus pressing on the out side race. I put the bearings in the freezer then when ready take them out and put one in and just tighten up the nut and it will press it in really nice and even,

[Chrisj CMA]

If you feel the vibration almost only upon acceleration then it DOESNT sound like a bearing issue.  U-joint or pinion cup is my guess

[cheeseman1969]

IS there a way to sign that it might be one of those? I take it that you have to take it all apart too. LOL

[old2soon]

There is a plastic cage  inside the bearing that holds the balls in place. You have to be really careful not to break the plastic cage that holds the bearings in the in the race. I have used that tool many times. That is why I built a small press. It is very simple I used two big washers about an 1 inch thick that I got from my buddy that owns a nut and bolt company. I then bought a big bolt and used a coupler nut. I Took old bearings and ground down the o/d so it would fit inside the wheel thus pressing on the out side race. I put the bearings in the freezer then when ready take them out and put one in and just tighten up the nut and it will press it in really nice and even,

What Bob just described here I not only was there in his garage with him I also helped. AND that press worked slicker than snot on a doorknob!    New rear wheel bearings and I installed a new U-joint lotsa slop gone out of the drive line!  Put in right at 300 miles today and it acts like a new one and there is 103000 + miles on the clock. Yeah-ya really dasn't wana hammer in new bearings!  RIDE SAFE.

[Thunderbolt]

If you feel it in the footpegs when you are light on the throttle it is probably your u-joint.

[heavyd]

If you feel it in the footpegs when you are light on the throttle it is probably your u-joint.

I've been wondering what that vibration was....

[cheeseman1969]

I did not get to take it apart or look at this last weekend as worked at a second job to .. wait for it.. pay for my motorcycling. Irony is a real B#$% LOL.. I am going to do it this week.

[R J]

If you happen to have Dun Floppers on the front, I'd bet good hard cash, they are cupped, if you didn't run them at 45+. pressure.

[cheeseman1969]

Nope replaced the front with Avon tire (?) and has less than 1,000 miles on it.

[Thunderbolt]

On mine I noticed that when I crested a hill and eased off the throttle a little I would feel it in the foot pegs.  My U-joint was not beyond use but one direction in the joint had a little play when torqued it back an forth.  I also changed the rubber dampers but the U-joint definitely had some play.  Could also be the rear splines so while you have it all apart check everything so you won't have to go back in there for some time.

[cheeseman1969]

I got out tonight and did some testing. When I get up to speed around 50, I start to feel the vibration. When I goose the throttle some more and increase speed, vibration is felt through handle bar and foot pegs. When I let go of the throttle, there is a definite drop in vibration intensity but can still be felt above 50 in both hands and feet slightly, just enough to notice it. If I push on the foot peg and concertrate, I can feel it down to the 40 mph range with a little bit of throttle.

From what everyone said here, I am thinking bearings. 

[cheeseman1969]

UPDATE..

I took the front wheel off and felt the bearing and everything looked good. No issues at all. I just off the back wheel removed the plate that holds in the dampers, I noticed something.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Gw0-8mQcK6LR3bFmTcSomue4Duq6CEgnug/view?usp=sharing

I couldn't get the pic in the post so just click on the link. SOrry

Lots of grooves in the plate facing towards the dampers. I have 159,000 miles on her. Is this normal??

I checked the rear bearings and everything seems to be ok. Rolls smooth. The final drive shaft looks good too. No nicks or wearing on the grooves. The next thing is getting to the u-joint. Need to get that tool to get the swing arm off.

[Valker]

UPDATE..

I took the front wheel off and felt the bearing and everything looked good. No issues at all. I just off the back wheel removed the plate that holds in the dampers, I noticed something.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Gw0-8mQcK6LR3bFmTcSomue4Duq6CEgnug/view?usp=sharing

I couldn't get the pic in the post so just click on the link. SOrry

Lots of grooves in the plate facing towards the dampers. I have 159,000 miles on her. Is this normal??

I checked the rear bearings and everything seems to be ok. Rolls smooth. The final drive shaft looks good too. No nicks or wearing on the grooves. The next thing is getting to the u-joint. Need to get that tool to get the swing arm off.

Possibly left out the thrust washer????

[John Schmidt]

You don't need to remove the swingarm to pull the u-joint as long as you have the rear wheel and final drive out.

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html

[BonS]

Looking at you rear wheel damper retaining plate I think you need to look closely at your dampers as they are likely shot. Also look to see if the clear plastic hub thrust washer is in place. Also, you should do some reading here or find someone that knows how to remove and inspect the u-joint as well as inspect the drive shaft spines and final gear set for wear. You don't have to remove the swing arm to do any of this.

[cheeseman1969]

Thrust washer.. I will have to look that one up on what it is..

On the u-joint - thanks!! Did not know that.. Learn a new trick everytime I take it apart.. LOL

[cheeseman1969]

I just ordered new dampers.. FIgured that was one cause of it.

[salty1]

You didn't say what year or model of bike you have. So the schematic link was for a 99 standard. The thrust washer is item 5.

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1999/GL1500C+A/REAR+WHEEL/parts.html

[cheeseman1969]

It is a 97 standard..