toy hauler vs. basic enclosed trailer

[cookiedough]

I've been going back and forth on this choice.  A gently used older 21' toy hauler weighing 5K lbs. with toy storage barely adequate usually 10x7.5' toy space with a tad few more feet upfront to spare open space with all the gadgets ever needed (if they all work) or a basic 7x16' enclosed trailer that has plenty more toy storage open space but no gadgets.

Price is over double say 4K vs. 8K (if lucky to find one in good shape at that price) and 2200lbs. vs. 5000lbs. but my 1/2 ton truck can pull both no problems. 

We have all the camping gear needed we could bring along as well inside basic trailer and get buy sleeping inside the basic 7x16' trailer on the floor once ATV's/cycle is outside.  Same way with toy hauler meaning the toys would have to be outside in order to sleep/use inside stuff.

Space alongside house is an issue on city lot though and although same width about, the toy hauler will be almost 6' longer which is not an issue as long as I move BB hoop, move elsewhere my 7x7 shed, tear down the lilac bush, and move the clothesline all to get the toy hauler to fit where I
want it.  Big pain to do all of that, but can be done in 1 weekend project or so. 

I'm leaning toward the basic 7x16' enclosed trailer since is easier to tow,  has more useful functions for storage and moving items easier, less headache to park and fix up/less upkeep for sure vs. all the older, say almost 10 year old toy hauler anemities like heater,oven, fridge, generator, A/C, etc. 

Most of the time until our kids are off to college in another 5 years or so, we would just use it for storing 2 ATV's inside and possible for towing around my Valk I/S and 1 ATV or both ATV's.  Plus,  my utility ATV can possible move around easier the 7x16' trailer around the yard if needed to but pushing weight limit of ATV hitch am sure. 

[Michvalk]

The only real difference I could see, is the toy hauler will have rings mounted in the floor for tying down, whereas, the regular will not. There also may be a little more headroom in a toy hauler. The only other thing would be weight hauling capacity between units. I think the toy haulers automatically come with more weight carrying capacity, than a standard trailer the same size

[John Schmidt]

You can easily add the tie down rings in a regular enclosed unit. I found a four wheel trailer of that size is easier to back up than a two wheel, plus you don't need a tongue jack. In case of a flat the 4 wheel unit will maintain its track, a 2 wheel will drop on that side and if it's a total blowout.....look out!

[PAVALKER]

Tossing around same thoughts.  I am limited to 5k with my tow vehicle, have air mattresses and such and obviously can't tow a full loaded toy hauler with holding tanks etc...I think.   

Will be following this ......

[cookiedough]

To throw a monkey in the wrench so to speak,  I had my scooter tires replaced finally today after 6+ years and near 12K miles on them (starting to get weather checked), and the dealer had 8' wide all aluminum snowmobile type trailers being over 10' long by a true 8' wide inside (bigger by a small margin storage dimensions of most 21' toy haulers) with the single axle wheels under the trailer thus taking up a tad over 1 foot less in width which is needed alongside my garage so as to not push the lot line to neighbors yard as much.  They only weigh 1000lbs. vs. a dual axle 7x16' steel trailer weighing around 2K lbs. or so.  Would fit barely both width of my 2-up ATV's, however limited to ATV's (or snowmobiles which I don't have nor want) and at only 5'1" tall, NO cycle towing ever since pretty sure the windshield on the Valk is well over 5' tall.  Price new was 3400 single axle all aluminum 1/2 the weight could move around easily by myself by hand and fit into garage vs. 7x16' dual axle steel trailer 3700 in price (give or take) and more versatile able to tow cycle and stand up inside as well being over 6' tall barely.  

Only drawback I can see to 10x8' snowmobile trailer all aluminum (no rust over say 10 years unlike steel trailer) and lighter is unable to stand up in it and never able to toy haul any cycle with windshield for sure which maybe one day I would do?

[ValkISDan]

Not sure why I want to make things more difficult but I want to buy a pull behind camper and cut in a large hinged enclosed trailer door on the rear. This way I would build out the inside the way I want and keep the budget down VS a newer toy hauler. 

[Momz]

I am currently selling my Toy Hauler/Travel Trailer.
It is an 8 ft wide, 17 ft self contained, 4,800 lb trailer with a "Murphy Bed", marine toilet, shower, fridge, two burner stove, microwavae oven, with heat and air conditioning .Dual axels, and a "Wedge Nose" and make for an economical package.

We use a 1/2 pick up to tow and more than likely have two Valks within when we travel. We looked for a long time for a smaller "liveable" toy hauler. We are using it for the final time next weekend.

Our new Toy Hauler/Travel Trailer is scheduled to be built on the 10th. If you are curious,....PM me.

[cookiedough]

Not sure why I want to make things more difficult but I want to buy a pull behind camper and cut in a large hinged enclosed trailer door on the rear. This way I would build out the inside the way I want and keep the budget down VS a newer toy hauler. 

that I would like to see.  If I had my way in design,  I'd skip the poddy and shower totally since wouldn't use and since most are upfront taking all 7' wide by 2-3' deep and use that for more storage space moving all appliances upfront on that front wall ONLY and leave the entire rest in back open for toy storage with fold down beds/portable table in back with cabinets above only in front more.  That way, even an 18' toy hauler being smaller in length would work.  Unfortunately, all toy haulers I have seen have bathrooms in them taking up way too much open space.

2 days ago I drove the Valk to a farmer nearby 30 miles away and he had a 2004 Thor Wanderer Wagon 21' toy hauler sitting in his hay field.  Asking price 9K but he said would let go for 7.5K but he didn't have time to EVER clean it up nor dispose of mouse droppings ALL OVER literally and didn't have time to show me if the stove/heat/AC/generator, or fridge/freezer combo even worked.  Plus, 5, with spare,  OEM tires since 2004 were showing cords NOT safe to go on the road that alone with run 400 bucks to replace all 5 easily. 

He won't sell it for 7.5K unless he gets all in working order showing prospective buyers it all works fine.  If he calls me back asking in 2-3 weeks if still interested,  I might consider going up and if all is in working condition despite the poor upkeep, I may offer 6 grand since that will leave me some room to throw 1 grand or so into it to get it in better shape. Or, it could be a money pit???