no power to fuse block

[bamalancedriver]

man i am about to go into dt's because i can't ride my bike while i am trying to figure out this problem. on my first post i didn't list the order of wires. here is the order of the fuses. going from top to bottom: black wire--turn,stop, and horn,  black/brown--tail meter, black/red--head light,  black/blue--fan.  white--start,ign,  green/red--acc term. this is how it is listed on the fuse block. my manual and rattlebars site is not the same color coding on the wires on this fuse block. checked the switch and had power on 2 wires without the switch being on and after turning on the switch only 4 wires showed hot. thanks again

[R J]

Did you put the colored coded wire back on the matching terminal you took it off of?   turn,run to turn/run.

If not, I'd go back and do some wire swapping to make it like the original.

If you took a blue/black off of a turn signal, put it back on a turn signal, don't care what the damn manual or Chet's wiring scheme shows.....

That was the 1st thing I was taught when I went through electrics in high school shop........  Saved my butt a couple of times also.......

If I was creating something new, then I followed the Blue prints to a 'T'.

[Gryphon Rider]

The problem is at the ignition switch (key on/off).  The way you describe which circuits work and which don't is perfectly consistent with how the ignition switch works.  Look at the ignition switch continuity diagram in your service manual's wiring diagram.  The switch has 2 battery terminals.  When the switch is on, one battery terminal connects with IG1 and the fan, while the other one connects with IG2.  Take note what is powered by IG1 and IG2:

IG1:  Fuse B (top fuse) - Turn, Stop, Horn
        Fuse D (5th from top) - Starter, Ignition

IG2:  Fuse A (6th from top) - Acc. Term.
        Fuse C (3rd from top) - Headlight
        Fuse F (2nd from top) - Taillight, Meters

Looks like your IG2 terminal on the starter switch isn't getting power, so this could be either the switch itself, or one of the 2 red wires to the switch is broken.  By the way, I'm just looking at my manual, not taking apart my switch to look at it.  Also note the physical location of the fuses, top to bottom, is B,F,C,E,D,A, so I suspect your bike IS consistent with the diagrams schematically, if not physically.

[bamalancedriver]

Thanks for the reply. I have also thought it was the key switch. I have not moved any wires or made any changes to the electrical part of my bike. I will order a new switch. Thanks for your help

[Rocketman]

Thanks for the reply. I have also thought it was the key switch. I have not moved any wires or made any changes to the electrical part of my bike. I will order a new switch. Thanks for your help

It'd probably be worth your time to pull the switch now, and verify that it's a switch problem, and not a wire/connector problem.  Might save you an unnecessary purchase.

[bamalancedriver]

went out today and wiggled the key in the switch and guess what came on. everything worked and when i moved the key again all the lights went off. so i guess this is got to be the problem. thanks to everyone on this site you guys help the mechanical challenged more than you know.