Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
November 23, 2025, 05:35:07 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
MarkT Exhaust
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Print
Author Topic: The infamous buzzing cross brace  (Read 707 times)
longrider
Member
*****
Posts: 558


Vernon, B.C. Canada


« on: June 05, 2015, 05:15:49 PM »

Well I purchased my third valk since 1999.  Miled the first two up pretty good and found a 2000 with 8700 original miles.   This one has the buzzing bolt.  Before I tighten this one I just thought I'd run it by those who know. This cross brace has at least 1/16 in of play.  Should I remove the rad and shim. It'll be a long way to try and pull up the frame.  Your thoughts?

Warren
Logged
Challenger
Member
*****
Posts: 1321


« Reply #1 on: June 05, 2015, 05:27:05 PM »

yes! There is a pretty good chance of breaking the bolt trying to draw the frame that far.
Logged
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14887


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #2 on: June 05, 2015, 06:07:31 PM »

NAW, just tighten it slowly, if the gap decreases continue, if it doesn't don't way over tighten...that bolt can take a lot before it breaks.
Logged
Valkpilot
Member
*****
Posts: 2151


What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #3 on: June 05, 2015, 09:10:25 PM »

I'm in another camp from those who prefer to tighten the bolt and  try and squeeze the frame members together.

I prefer to squirt some RTV silicone in the the tube and in the cradles that hold the tube, then insert and tighten the bolt with a reasonable amount of torque.
Logged

VRCC #19757
IBA #44686
1998 Black Standard
2007 Goldwing 
 
   
Jess from VA
Member
*****
Posts: 30869


No VA


« Reply #4 on: June 06, 2015, 05:48:06 AM »

If you can get in there, adding a washer inside the frame next to the long spacer will do it too.

I torqued mine down and it lasted a while, then I cranked it down with everything I had and it never came back (I did it through the pods) (and you don't have to put a wrench on the other side, which takes a helper).   
Logged
DK
Member
*****
Posts: 616


Little Rock


« Reply #5 on: June 06, 2015, 07:41:27 AM »

I put some Gorilla glue on the bolt, wetted it & pushed it thru the spacer. It expands enough to preclude ever buzzing again.

I tightened it to 80 ft./pds. gradually over three rides.

Has been ok for over a year.

Dan
Logged

Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
longrider
Member
*****
Posts: 558


Vernon, B.C. Canada


« Reply #6 on: June 06, 2015, 11:28:54 AM »

I think I"ll ride it for a week or so and just take the time to pull the rad and get in there and shim it.  No big deal.  Funny I didn't notice it until after I ran the bike as I pulled the rad to install the temp sender when I moved the gauges over..  Took myself and a friend four days to do the change over of all of the parts (chrome, rear end service, fenders etc) from the old valk.  36 items in all.  Progressive fronts took the most time to change over
Logged
Hooter
Member
*****
Posts: 4092

S.W. Michigan


« Reply #7 on: June 08, 2015, 05:39:41 AM »




I think   Roll Eyes I used a thin fender shim to take up the space on my first Valk instead of a washer??? Again, I think thats what I did? You can crank that with no problem until it squeaks.
Logged

You are never lost if you don't care where you are!
al v
Member
*****
Posts: 227


Clinton Township, MI


« Reply #8 on: June 09, 2015, 07:29:37 PM »

It makes a really loud noise when you over tighten it... siliconed the second one. Then figured out the buzz was coming from the baker air wings.
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Print
Jump to: