U-joint replacement procedure...

[O-B-1]

I have been reading all morning, doing searches.

How does one replace the u-joint?

The manual is probably going to tell me to remove the swing arm.

I thought I had found a post awhile back on the replacement, but can't seem to find it today.

Anyone have a link to the post or can give me a brief rundown on the procedure?

Thank you in advance for the assist.

[Grandpot]

Do not remove the swing arm.

1. Remove the rear wheel.
2. Remove the rear drive.
3. Slide driveshaft out from the U-joint.
4. Raise the swing arm so it is horizontal (in line with the u-joint).
5. Pull back the u-joint bellow cover.
6. Slide the u-joint out toward the rear, then wiggle it out from the area between the swing arm and the motor.

Install in the reverse order.  The bellows will be a PIA! 

[The emperor has no clothes]

It will all be pretty smooth until that damn boot. Don't get frustrated and rip it .

[Novavalker]

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html

You don't need to remove the exhaust to get the wheel off.

[Jess from VA]

Here is a nice progressive photo instructional (click on each photo, enlarges and has more instructions) (there may be some links that no longer work) (there are probably a few tricks not covered, like dropping seat, shocks, lowering bike till axle comes out over the pipes, pulling the axle out enough to remove the caliper and spacer, then sticking it back thru to separate the drive unit from the hub.... 'cause this crap gets heavy when working alone) (no need to remove exhaust at all...you may need to loosen up the rear hangar nuts on the rear footpeg plate to get the drive unit to swing past the pipes; moving swing arm up and down, but I have never needed to do it, goes right by with no scraping at all) (then jack it up high enough to drop the wheel out the bottom without removing the lower fender half) (don't lose the thrust washer, and put it back when done)

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html

(beat me to it Nova  )

And this:  http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/rear_end_service.pptx

[O-B-1]

Thank you very kindly...

What a bunch!

Dave

[old2soon]

The U-joint R & R was a snap. I already had the wheel off. I installed a new U-joint and a NEW boot. Take the big end of the boot and turn it inside out at the big end-end that goes on the swing arm. Otherwise you WILL learn new curse words and question yer very existence here on planet Earth. Save yerself a LOT of trouble and get a NEW boot along with the new U-joint. How many miles on the bad U-joint may I ask? Mine went 103000 and change. RIDE SAFE.

[Bighead]

Didn't have a problem with the Boot myself,took all of about 5 minutes

[hukmut]

Ya shoulda been in the anatomy of the fat girls rear end class at Inzane, dude!

[O-B-1]

Thanks to a VRCC member sending me a good u-joint. Sure appreciate it.

I verified he u-joint as bad after removal, the engine-side yoke pivots were "catching", not smooth, when pivoting back and forth.

Getting it all back together was straight forward and easy... no cussing & cursing at all. The boot went on real easy, front & rear.

The grease in the pinion cup was starting to harden... So I cleaned that all out, made sure the holes in the bottom end of the cup were free and clear, applied a light coat of fresh moly grease (Case Tractor) to the drive shaft splines and seal before reassembling.

Now I have to go get some Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear lube... I think my son used mine and the moly paste I had bought especially for the fat girl on his racing lawn mower differential. Teens! Aaagh...!

[O-B-1]

How many miles on the bad U-joint may I ask? Mine went 103000 and change. RIDE SAFE.

Mine lasted like 78,500... Started noticing it on way back from Inzane going up the Great Divide grade.
Probably would have hung in there a few more miles. The pivots in the engine-side yoke were catching in spots when flexing it. Other pivots were still smooth.
Previous owner was aggressive rider (and my former boss & friend).