Getting water in the car from somewhere.

[John Schmidt]

It's an SUV, 2008 Torota Highlander. Had it to the dealer twice, total of $250 so far and I still get my feet wet. It's not coolant, guess I'm thankful for that. First time he said they cleared the a/c drain, said there was lot of junk in there blocking it. OK, tried that for a few days until it rained cats 'n dogs. Wet again so back I go. Oh...this time it was a body seam. I found where it was and all the gook they smeared in there to stop it. All was fine until the last few days when it has been raining hard nearly every day. Got home yesterday and the wife showed me the bottom of her purse which sits on the floor in front....soaked. I'm beginning to wonder if the windshield seal is leaking, I have no idea how to get to it but wish I could find a manual somewhere on line to educate myself. Done some searching for one, nothing so far. I'd say it's the a/c drain again except both sides of the front are wet and the drain only goes down the right side. Sure wish cars were built to work on now, that time is history. So much crap under the hood and they don't run any better now than in the past with the exception of driving in wet weather. I even had that fixed on my old junkers....but I digress. Not sure where to turn next, sure don't want to keep throwing money at it. Probably my last Toyota, have 55k on it and haven't been really happy with it since three months after the day I bought it new in '07.

[fudgie]

Where on the floor? Is it near the door? If so it could be coming in between the fender and door down where the windshield is. Sometimes my floor is damp there.

[BF]

Does it have a sun/moon roof John?  Those things have drains that sometimes get clogged.  You could have water backing up and leaking into the car anywhere from your headliner down to the floor. 

Open the moon roof, find the little tiny drain hole(s) and blow it out with compressed air....then pour some bleach down it. 

Hope that helps. 

[dragonslayer]

Hi again,in front of the windshield is the air intake,metal with all the slots,for the heat and air.You might have the drains pluged up.That piece comes off easy and then you can clear the drains.If you have an air compressor and a long blower attachment you can use that instead of taking it appart.Also find the drain hose for the airconditioner and blow it in reverse to make sure it's clear.It will be under the truck on the right side.You got my # if you need info.

[Jess from VA]

Had a similar issue with tiny ants.  Not in the passenger compartment (good weatherstrip), but moving into the door jams and trunk.  Had to play Sherlock Holmes and study their travel patterns, then lots of liquid and granular poison.  I don't drive it enough. 

I can hear Miss Rita saying it belongs in the garage where the pile of parts is. 

Some of those heavy duty custom made floor mats might catch the water (and be easily dumped out) IF the water is coming from the top and not from underneath.



 

[Jersey mike]

John, before you do anything, water test it yourself.

First start with the windshield area. There are several way to go about it. Having a helper is a plus.

Is the W/S mldg seated well to the body up top and to the sides down the pillars and windshield.

When you water test the W/S, you can use a large piece of plastic drop cloth and duct tape it off so you can concentrate water on a specific area and move it around to different locations as needed.

If you're up to it do remove the wipers and the front cowl, you'll get a real good look in that area.

Under the truck near the wheel wells should be the drain openings, be sure there's nothing stuck up in there as been suggested with air, water should flow out nice and easy when large amounts of water is applied to the W/S area.

If worse comes to worse and you can't locate it, try your local glass shop that does auto glass work before you go back to the dealer.  

Good luck

[John Schmidt]

OK, it doesn't have a moon roof. Also seems to be concentrated near the center, leaks enough to get the floor mats soaked on both sides and starts at the top of the front slope. I really think it's coming from somewhere at or below the windshield and have reason to believe this. Last winter when it was in the 20's & 30's down here, if I drove on a rough road I got little squeaks that sounded like glass sliding inside rubber. If it ever stops raining here long enough, I want to pull the cover off that is over the area between the firewall and the bottom of the w/s. There's another piece below that I need to figure out how to remove but that should let me at any openings going through the firewall at the top. About a week ago I wet vac'd at least a gallon out of the front floor and a bit more from the back where it had finally seeped to. Today I was checking it out and it appears I'll get another gallon or so again. Removing the floor mats is not an easy task on this thing but will do it if needed.

[cookiedough]

John, before you do anything, water test it yourself.

First start with the windshield area. There are several way to go about it. Having a helper is a plus.

Is the W/S mldg seated well to the body up top and to the sides down the pillars and windshield.

When you water test the W/S, you can use a large piece of plastic drop cloth and duct tape it off so you can concentrate water on a specific area and move it around to different locations as needed.

If you're up to it do remove the wipers and the front cowl, you'll get a real good look in that area.

Under the truck near the wheel wells should be the drain openings, be sure there's nothing stuck up in there as been suggested with air, water should flow out nice and easy when large amounts of water is applied to the W/S area.

If worse comes to worse and you can't locate it, try your local glass shop that does auto glass work before you go back to the dealer.  

Good luck

good suggestions.  Have someone outside with a garden hose and try spraying pressure of water in different locations until  you see water inside.  I wouldn't think it would be that hard if a gallon is coming in after awhile to figure out.  My guess is windshield in front around the seals, but that should be an easy spot I would think if you sit inside when someone outside is spraying a garden hose on the vehicle. 

[Daddie O]

I've had a few Toyotas, and they were nothing but problems.  The dealerships were no help to me either.  I will never own another Toyota.  Besides, I prefer to buy American.

I wouldn't be surprised if your problem is a leaky windshield.

[Patrick]

The fellas have pretty much covered it.  
My thoughts are the cowl drains. They can found fairly easily and blown out.
If you try the water spray route [ used to do that a lot back in the day] then spray heavily but start low and work your way up.

I feel your pain regarding Toyotas. I've had them and have worked on enough of them as well as arguing with the dumbass factory reps. I'll never own another nor suggest one to anyone.

I'll try to find out more about your problem if I can, but, can't right now, sorry, got to go.

[HurstRob]

used to have a 98 Passat. On really humid days with ac on high the passenger floor board would fill with ac condensate water; it seems that the drain line faced slightly forward and air pressure would keep the water from dripping out

[Robert]

Everyone here must have had leaks at one time because the tips are good but one of the most valuable things I find in tracing water leaks is cleaning the floor and even sometimes removing the wet carpeting so as to see where the water is traveling from. A hole made in each of the lowest corners of each seating area will let the water out so that anything wet on the floor is not water that traveled from some where else. It helps to localize an area, know the floor and how the water travels is also helpful. Remove the interior window trim on both sides of the front windshield which is usually pretty easy. Its also fairly easy to remove the trim between the doors on the pillars. Check the 2 seams that usually run where they joined the roof panels together. Once the floor is exposed and dry you can watch where the water drips or travels from. If you cannot fully expose the floor bending the carpet down from the dash and from behind drivers feet would be helpful. I would also agree about the windshield area so how about some tape over the trim to stop water from this area. Only for a couple of days though because it will not come off after awhile. Also glass companies will usually charge 100.00 to come out and reseal a windshield and if its cracked its under insurance. They come to your house and will do it at your convenience. I have also seen an evap drain that was old not seal around the place where it came through the body of the car. So the water was going out the drain then coming back in between the body and drain. But the first place to start is a fairly dry floor and then on a dry day  ???  use the hose to spray the car and find where the water starts first. I would also pull the edges of the headliner looking with a flash light and see if there are any traces of rust or water damage. I have seen the rear side and the rear windows leak also especially around the hinges for the rear door. Checking the rear fender wells for traces of water or clearing the drains of those wells behind the rear wheels will also give a clue. I don't know if this SUV has rear spare in the car but check any well in the car to make sure they are not filled with water and are they dry, Work from the bottom up. Once the pad of the carpet absorbs the water its pretty much game over to try to see where the leak is coming from. The padding will release the water it has in it even if it seems fairly dry so that water will travel also. Doors can pretty much be eliminated by watering the outside window seal with a hose and see if the when the door is open the water drains out the bottom also. My wife had a leak in the rear of her car and it turned out to be the bottom edge of the trunk door seal. The bottom come on wth?

[Jersey mike]

John,

are you the original owner?  if the w/s has been replaced the installers may have not applied the urethane sealant enough in one area that has now become the issue. Urethane does not harden and crack over time but if too thin in an area it can become an issue.

If I remember right, Toyota puts their own stamp on their glass, so the w/s should say Toyota on it in the bottom right corner. if it has a different MFG name or symbol, the w/s has been replaced more than likely.

the idea Robert said of removing the interior "A" pillar mldgs is an excellent idea.

if you are removing that much water, it sounds more like a leak rather than the a/c condensation.

do not call Safelite, they wont help, if you need an auto glass installer, call a few body shops and regular glass companies (even if they don't do auto glass, a good glass co should know a good auto glass guy) and see who they recommend, if you're lucky you'll get the same name 2 or 3 times.

[John Schmidt]

I've had a few Toyotas, and they were nothing but problems.  The dealerships were no help to me either.  I will never own another Toyota.  Besides, I prefer to buy American.

I wouldn't be surprised if your problem is a leaky windshield.

I'm inclined to agree with you re. Toyotas. The only trouble free one I ever had was over 40 yrs. ago, bought it with a blown engine & replaced it with a low mileage junk yard unit. Told my oldest daughter she could have it if she helped make the engine change....really looked cute with grease on her nose and cheeks.    She was a trooper though, her sisters even got involved I assume so they could at least borrow it from time to time. They ran the crap outa that car with never a problem except the gas tank kept going down. I told them it had a leak at the gas pedal, they finally figured that out. That was the last one I owned with no troubles, and this is probably the the last one I'll own.....period!

So far no rain this morning so going to try and pull the carpet up. Not in a hurry to go back to the dealer, $250 later and I still have a mobile foot bath....a rather large one.  

PS: FWIW to those that asked....I'm the original owner, bought new with just my test miles on it. No accidents so far but that windshield is about to be broken by vandalism.    Not really, I don't work that way.

[Jersey mike]

I've had a few Toyotas, and they were nothing but problems.  The dealerships were no help to me either.  I will never own another Toyota.  [color=yellow]Besides, I prefer to buy American.

[/color]

Well, my wife's Camry has close to 290k and is still going strong, looks great too. yeah it burns a little oil, about 1/2 qt. in 3k miles. All I've ever done its keep it maintained. stick to recommended service schedule.

My other Camry is an '02 and has about 130k on it and it's a great car too. My '99 is a Japan model and the '02 is a USA model and they are both excellent automobiles.

As for the "I prefer to buy American" well all I can say to that these days is, that sounds like something Harley riders proclaim.

[Master Blaster]

As for the "I prefer to buy American" well all I can say to that these days is, that sounds like something Harley riders proclaim.

I agree, have owned a bunch of Toyotas, starting with a 60's Landcrusher wagon to an 08 Avalon, and all have been sterling.  Don't think I ever had any of them back to the dealer for anything.
 
 
 

[solo1]

I've had a number of Toyotas without any problems.   All of the suggestions here are good.

Prefer to buy American?   Very possible if you count Mexico, after all, it's in America.

[cookiedough]

As for the "I prefer to buy American" well all I can say to that these days is, that sounds like something Harley riders proclaim.

I agree, have owned a bunch of Toyotas, starting with a 60's Landcrusher wagon to an 08 Avalon, and all have been sterling.  Don't think I ever had any of them back to the dealer for anything.
 
 
 

I don't want to make this a toyota vs. gm or other mfg. since we all have had issues with mfgs regardless of who they are.  My experience,  my GM vehicles have had far more issues than Toyota and Hyundai I currently own, but some GM's were good as well.  

I'd bet it is the windshield in front otherwise somehow the front cowling is somehow leaking water inside somehow.  Very odd indeed so new of a vehicle and if no glass placement ever,  you'd think it was this way since day one?  let us know what it is when you figure it out.  maybe call 4-5 toyota dealers and ask them if ever had leaking water about 1 gallon inside getting the carpet wet.  If I paid 250 bucks to no avail or luck fixing my issue,  I'd be marching right back into same toyota dealer and telling them to fix it or give me my 250 bucks back.  

also maybe check online and do a search on toyota forums or NHSTA (govt agency) on complaints or problems with your vehicle leaking water inside somehow.  

[KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)]

John, check out this thread. Although their problem may not be yours, it had things I wouldn't have thought of as possibilities

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/highlander/123170-carpets-soaked-when-rains-cant-find/

[FLAVALK]

I've had a few Toyotas, and they were nothing but problems.  The dealerships were no help to me either.  I will never own another Toyota.  Besides, I prefer to buy American.

I wouldn't be surprised if your problem is a leaky windshield.

Trolling - trolling - trolling

[Robert]

He did buy American 

United States

    Toyota Motor Manufacturing Mississippi, Tupelo, Mississippi – Toyota Corolla The facility will be named "Toyota Motor Manufacturing, Mississippi, Inc."

    Toyota Motor Manufacturing Kentucky, Inc., (TMMK) is located in Georgetown. Engine manufacture - 2GR-FE and 2AR-FE. Vehicle manufacture and assembly - Camry, Hybrid Camry, Avalon, Avalon Hybrid, and Venza.

    Toyota Motor Manufacturing Texas, Inc (TMMTX) is located in San Antonio. Vehicle manufacture and assembly - Tundra & Tacoma.

    Toyota Motor Manufacturing Indiana, Inc. (TMMI) is located in Princeton, Indiana. Vehicle manufacture and assembly - Sequoia, Sienna, Highlander & Highlander Hybrid .

    Toyota Motor Manufacturing Alabama, Inc. (TMMAL), is located in Huntsville. Engine manufacture 1GR-FE, 1UR-FE and 3UR-FE. Engines mostly for TMMTX and some TMMI.

    Toyota Motor Manufacturing West Virginia, Inc. (TMMWV), is located in Buffalo. Engine manufacture 2GR-FE, 2ZR-FE and 1AR-FE.

    Subaru of Indiana Automotive, Inc. is located in Lafayette, Indiana. Vehicle manufacture and assembly - Subaru Legacy, Toyota Camry from February 28, 2007 to Autumn of 2016 then production moves back to Toyota Motor Manufacturing Kentucky.

[Oss]

John I am with you on not breaking the windshield, hope you find the trouble

my corolla had about 225k when a drunk hit me

my 99 camry has 195k  bought it used put a junkyard engine in it at 125k
Did have some water in rear wheel well but figured it out and drilled holes in bottom of each
No more problems

Any car can be a lemon, ya rolls your dice   Once heard never buy a car made on Wed Monday or Friday

One cause the worker is hung over Wed cause he is depressed its Wed and Friday looking to weekend and not paying attention  Have no idea if its true

[Gavin_Sons]

I have a tundra and it has been 185k miles of trouble free pleasure. Our chevy traverse has a windshield gasket pinched that would whistle at 60 mph. Toyotas are some of the best vehicles in my opinion. But I have been eyeballing the 2015 chevy high country trucks. Those are sexy

[GiG]

John:

An automotive testing trick I have been using a long time:

BEFORE applying the  garden hose - remove all the wet carpet, padding, whatever and get it completely dry inside.
Then, cover all the surfaces with a thin layer of foot powder. When the water intrudes, its course will be evident in the powder 

PS:

Gavin: I rented a Traverse last week and LOVED it. Much larger on the inside than it looks from outside, good gas MPG, great visibility, leather trim, all amenities, no whistle...

[Daddie O]

My mother had a Toyota Celica GT convertible.  It threw a rod through the block at 34k miles. Toyota didn't want to fix it under warranty.  18 months later, court decided Toyota needed to pay to fix it.

I had a Toyota MR2. It was fun to drive.  I drove it from Miami to the SF Bay Area.  It needed a clutch master and slave cylinder, and front struts before it reached 50k miles.  Then one year later it needed front struts again.  Then a fan relay failed, and the engine overheated.  Recycled aluminum warped when heated, so it needed a new head gasket.

Everything mechanical can fail, but if it fails on a GM, Ford, Jeep, or Dodge, it will likely cost you less to repair.  You are also supporting our economy by buying a vehicle made in the good ol' USA.  I'm surprised I'm being called a troll for saying I prefer to buy American.  My wife drives a Chevy HHR, I drive a Jeep Grand Cherokee, and then there is my fun car that was built in Kentucky:







They have all been great vehicles.

[John Schmidt]

Nice Vette. But for me to drive one at my age I'd have to install a rotating seat with a lift assist.    Not really, but there were times I had to grunt to get out of my wife's Lexus.

This morning I opened the hood and using a flat blade narrow spatula, I ran it under the rubber that runs along the edge of the plastic apron and is against the glass. Starting at the right side you can push the blade down between the glass and rubber until it hits something, apparently the bottom of the rubber edging on the inside. Then I ran it across toward the left side, about midway it was like the bottom dropped out for a couple inches. Moved the blade a bit further to the left and it was now able to touch the "bottom" as before. Almost tempted to use some Great Stuff, squirt it in there and seal that area off. Just wish I could find a drawing of what that looks like before I do anything. I covered all the vents on top, taped down with duct tape, sky is turning black now at 5:20pm so we'll have more heavy rain.

I found in order to pull up the carpet, I have to remove most of the plastic trim inside sine it runs underneath it around the edge. Guess that's next. 

[Gavin_Sons]

John:

An automotive testing trick I have been using a long time:

BEFORE applying the  garden hose - remove all the wet carpet, padding, whatever and get it completely dry inside.
Then, cover all the surfaces with a thin layer of foot powder. When the water intrudes, its course will be evident in the powder 

PS:

Gavin: I rented a Traverse last week and LOVED it. Much larger on the inside than it looks from outside, good gas MPG, great visibility, leather trim, all amenities, no whistle...

We are looking at trading for a buick Enclave or a GMC acadia. Both the same as the traverse with different body styles. We are also looking at Yukons. Would love me a Yukon but I dont think my wallet would like it much.

[DK]

Spread newspaper on the floor & under the dash where it meets the firewall around the footwells.

I sort of defer to the foot powder idea though but the newspaper method doesn't require removing carpet.

I would go with newspaper first and if it doesn't work do the foot powder.

Dan