oil based enamel paint comments

[cookiedough]

I'm picking up my new enclosed trailer this Friday in charcoal gray.

The mfg. online suggest if wanting to treat the Advantech (spelling?) wood floor inside, to use oil based enamel paint.  Planning on doing that this coming weekend if I have time. 

Any ideas on what brand is the best and where to get it?  Seems like it is somewhat hard to find since not many people use it anymore since smells (needs ventilation) and a day between putting the 2nd coat on as well as not being able to put stuff inside until 3-5 days later to let the oil base soak up into the wood to dry completely.

I want to use 2 coats and hoping 1 gallon will do for a 7x23' (7x18' square with v-nose) trailer and tint it to charcoal gray to match the exterior even though the walls are white vinyl,  white paint on floor will show dirt/ATV tire marks easier than the darker charcoal gray color.  Most gallons of oil based paint online anyways states 300-400 sq. foot coverage so I should be fine with 1 gallon but like usual,  mfgs. suggestions for us anyways is optimistic and never get that much out of one gallon. 

[Jess from VA]

Why not a top quality oil based clear (or tinted) wood stain/sealer instead of paint? 

Or maybe those square vinyl tiles with grip/traction in them, stuck down with backing adhesive? 

[Robert]

Why not use an epoxy like Rustolieum makes a product called rock solid  for wood floor paint. Very similar to their epoxy floor paint except it will flex a bit.

[Michvalk]

Oil based enamel paint stays soft for a VERY long time. It might be dry in a couple of days, but, will stay soft for weeks. Don't put it on the floor unless you have no plans to use the trailer for several weeks

[Crackerborn]

My guess is the reason the manufacturer is suggesting an oil based product is that it will outlast any latex product. The reason it is hard to find is not the popularity (or lack thereof) of the paint, rather the EPA is making it difficult on the manufacturers that still produce oil based paints. I go with Robert on the epoxy floor but add a non-slip texture to the epoxy. It too is a very slow curing product that will stay soft for a few days. If you have a Hallman-Lindsay paint dealer near you, they can help you and they are a WI based company. They also have national products available.

[signart]

All depends on humidity. Rustolium is fairly thin but you can add some Japan drier to make it cure faster if the weather is cool, but the idea of oil base is it will absorb into the wood and not dry on top of the wood as water base will dry without much penetration.
Don't try to flood the floor with the first coat trying to get it to get good color. Let it dry a day and apply second coat using catalyst hardener from TSC. You might even use the tractor paint from TSC. The hardener will cure the paint from inside out and make the paint very durable and washable.
I also like the garage floor paint idea after a sealer coat of the oil enamel, assuming the floor paint is enamel.

[HurstRob]

and may I add, lots of ventilation

[signart]

and may I add, lots of ventilation

Yes, and most importantly, start at the nose!

[dreamaker]

I would like to share this with you, bare with me! I have replaced wood transoms on a couple fiberglass boats. What we do is take two pieces of ¾” marine plywood and bond them together to make it 1 ½ thick piece for the transom. What we do, to prep the plywood is take some polyester (fiberglass resin) mix in some activator, mix it well, then add acetone and thin it like a water consistency.  Then we would roll it over all of the plywood and let it soak in, and dry.  The reason was to soak into the wood to prevent dry rot and give it a good bonding surface.  Now my point is, when I built my motorcycle pull behind trailer, I used a ¾” ply on the flat bed of it. I bought some Rustoleum hammer tone paint for the plywood, to give it a metal look. To prep the plywood, I looked on the can for the proper solvent to use with it, and mixed and thinned it like water. Roller two coats on the plywood let it soak in, after it dried, I roller the paint at regular viscosity and never had an issue with the wood, top and bottom.  What can I say it works, See if paint is somewhat thick, it just lays on top of the wood surface and doesn’t soak in and bonds to it, moisture gets underneath and lifts, cracks, rots.

[Hook#3287]

I'm guessing your doing a finish for looks?

AdvanTech doesn't need additional protection.

I've been using it as sub-floor for over 10-12 years.

When it first came out, I took a cut off piece and left it outside for 5 years.  Finally threw it out cause nothing happened.

[98valk]

porch and floor paint and add a packet of non-skid to it.  home depot has it in grey.

[cookiedough]

porch and floor paint and add a packet of non-skid to it.  home depot has it in grey.

Yah,  that is what I may be doing for 26 bucks or so.  The one top suggestion from above was rustoleum diamond coat with gray color added with anti-skid particles tossed in as well.
That is probalby the best idea for longevity and looks but is 100 bucks or so but one coat coverage it states.

http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/rocksolid/interior-floor-coating-systems/polycuramine-diamond-coat-clear-base

am sure the rustoleum stuff is best though and will last longer?   Yah, am pretty sure advantech flooring will last the way it is from factory, but I will be keeping this trailer 20+ years probably so might as well help protect it for the long haul as well as looks, but more concerned with longevity. 

[cookiedough]

thanks for all the great suggestions.  After some review of what I originally bought being Valspar dark grey oil based enamel paint, I am going to return it and probably go the expensive route of my link above being polycurmine light gray with grey/black specs in it and add the packet of anti-skid particles in it as well. 

Not cheap at 140 bucks vs. 25 bucks for a gallon of oil based enamel paint, but from reading reviews and from the postings on this board,  the oil based enamel paint I bought is really not meant for heavy HOT tire traffic which is what I will be doing using it for ATV's.   Plus,  the Valspar stuff I bought doesn't state to use for vehicle traffic and to me, even though two 800lb. 2-up ATV's are not the size of a vehicle,  am sure will not last.  Some reviews of this Valspar even commented it remained plyable/flexible and tacky for several weeks after applying and not very skid resistant and easily scratches/peels up which is NOT good. 

The rustoleum polycuramine coating states is 20x's more durable than epoxy and will last a lifetime and is more durable and made for HOT tire traffic.  The box states for concrete but I called rustoleum up directly and they say can use for wood as well. 

Luckily I did not do it today since my new trailer I swept it out twice and vacuumed it out with shop vac once today and TONS of advantech floor dust particles all over.  I think I will early this week get a damp hot rag and very lightly go over the entire flooring BEFORE next weekend applying the 2-part mixture.

NEXT QUESTION:  Apply using 3-4" brushes or use a deep napped roller to apply to the advantech floor??  I think the brush will cover better, but the box states MUST apply all of it once breaking the seal of the 2-part mixture IN ONLY ONE HOUR IS ALL.   It covers box says 200-250 square feet so 7x23' trailer is around 150 sq. ft with 2 ramp doors another 50+ sq. feet as well.   

Not so sure even with me and my wife using 2 brushes can we get the 7x23'  trailer with both front and rear ramp doors done in ONLY 1 hour?  Am guessing the mixture starts hardening and curing soon after that one hour but luckily only suppose to be 54 degrees next Saturday so curing/drying time will be longer than today being a balmy 79 degrees and very windy.  Just has to be above say 45 degrees to apply so may have 1 1/2 hour or so when colder out?

PLUS,  this rustoleum product is ONE COAT and DONE vs. all the oil based enamel/poly paints are 2 applications with several days curing in between coats and need more ventilation for sure.


My other idea was herculiner bed liner especially on the front and rear ramps which might be the way to go if I run out of the polycuramine coating inside the 7x23' trailer. 

[Bighead]

A roller will cover just as good or better than a brush. Plus look better and take 1/4 the time.

[cookiedough]

A roller will cover just as good or better than a brush. Plus look better and take 1/4 the time.

Yah,  now that I think of it,  the advantech wood floor is pretty smooth surface for (sort of) plywood. 

I will probably use a brush around the edges/sides of trailer and around the d-rings on floor, but a heavy/deep napped roller on the rest will surely go 3x's faster since only 1 hour to start drying time.

Plus, have to do the edging and roller on front and rear ramp doors.   

[Jersey mike]

My first thought is before going through all,the trouble, see if Rhino coat or LineX ( I think that's the correct spelling ) would work just as well or better, and it can be colored to your liking.

Good luck what ever way you choose.

[hubcapsc]

Do nothing... ?

50-Year Advantech® No-Warp Flooring

Tired of warping plywood and rotting floor boards? Why continue to coat it or sand it? Why put up with it?

DuraMax Trailer has been using Advantech Engineered Flooring for many years as our standard flooring. It is the same tongue-n-groove system that has been used in high-end homes for decades.

Advantech Engineered Flooring system is the industry leader in moisture resistance (9.2% absorption vs. 40.3% for plywood).

Advantech flooring does not cup, warp, or delaminate under harsh weather conditions.

Engineered for strength and stiffness, Advantech flooring outperforms plywood and OSB by over 100% (1,675 lbf-in/ft Bending Strength vs. 768 lbf-in/ft for plywood and OSB).

Compressed together by plastic composite material not glued, Adantech flooring does not contain fermaldehyde fumes that are harmful to your health.

The tongue-n-grove design ensures that, no matter the temperature changes, you will never see a gap in the seams of your floor.

                       http://duramaxtrailer.com/feat-info.html

[cookiedough]

Yah,  that 50 year warranty on the advantech flooring should cover my lifetime anyways.  Mfg. said no need for epoxy or enamel/poly paint since is just cosmetic cover up is all looking better.

I read up on the rustoleum polycuramine coating and the tinted light gray if I wanted to add the black/gray flakes to make it look nicer,  you have to I think toss them into the coating on the floor AFTER applying with your hand.   My luck I would toss them and spill a huge glob of 2-tone flakes in one spot screwing it up.

Anyone ever use that rustoleum polycuramine coating with the 2-tone flakes and how did it go tossing the flakes onto the coating after doing some of the floor?

[cookiedough]

decided on herculiner bed liner using 3 gallons. 

Called herculiner and they suggested using an oil based exterior primer like Kilz has.  So,  was planning on doing that today and still am, but darn wether forecaster are a P.O.S.  Stated going to clear up today and clouds diminishing.  Well,  rained overnight woke up to sunshine so figured good deal.  Well,  taped the trailer by 11 a.m.,   got interior of trailer done in 1 hour with kilz primer, but have ramp doors left to do still when the darn drizzle rain clouds moved in on us.   

Forecasters got it all wrong,  clouds to sun it is NOT, more like sun to clouds and dropping temps now 53 degrees and damp.  Primer is suppose to be dry to touch in 1 hour and near 3 hours later is damp inside the trailer thanks to NO sun and cannot put ramp doors down due to drizzling off and on. 

Gonna have to finish the primer today no matter what if tomorrow will have enough time to get 2 coats of herculiner done in 1 day stating 4 hours between coats for drying time so will be pushing it before dark tomorrow am sure since in 50's doesn't dry as fast as in 80's.    At least sunny out tomorrow and hopefully NO more 25 mph fricking winds as well.  Has to be 2nd coated within 24 hours, wish us luck. 

The primer states covers 400 sq. feet coverage, they lie.  I figured 180 sq. feet on my trailer and will use up the entire gallon NO problems in ONE coat with NO room to spare only 1 inch left in the gallon can and have 1 ramp door to finish still.   I sure hope using the primer as instructed by herculiner to use will reduce the amount of herculiner needed on bare wood which it should and help it adhere to the primer without soaking into the wood much at all.   

Fall temps certainly are a pain in the butt as well as shitty weather forecasters and strong fall winds near daily now.  Next weekend temps look no better barely reaching 50 for a high. 

[cookiedough]

A roller will cover just as good or better than a brush. Plus look better and take 1/4 the time.

that we have figured out just today using the kilz primer.  A roller covers better on bare wood and much, much faster except the holes in the wood have to dab in with brush.

going out now to see if I can get the kilz primer oil based on the rear ramp door without the f'ing drizzle starting, but still cloudy out still.

I'm just so far thankful we did NOT go the rustoleum 2-part epoxy mixture having to do get it done all in 1 hour with one coat.  NOT like we can even get the kilz primer done in 1 hour even with the roller.  Weather is key and not looking good for rest of today.  

Just got done with the exterior kilz complete oil based primer after it stopped drizzling after 3 p.m. today finally.  Gallon said 400 sq. feet coverage, they lie. The floor and 2 ramp doors at most 200 sq. feet barely had enough to dabble  the ramp door edging on the starting to dry primer off the sides/bottom of the can, all gone in 1/2 the coverage expected.  

At least the primer should help adhere the herculiner bedliner not soaking the more expensive bedliner product into the wood tomorrow.  Getting up and once above 45 degrees by 9 a.m. or so, will attempt to get 2 coats done by dark since states 4 hours in between coats and hope if I put enough of a light coat on first time,  it will dry before 4 p.m. to get the final coat on before dark.  Bedliner instructions state must put on 2nd coat within 24 hours so will be pushing it.  

Update:  4+ hours later and the 1st coat of herculiner bedliner is NOT dry to the touch and NO way going to get done now today 2nd coat.  I guess I will attempt by myself to do it tomorrow from 9-2 p.m. before working 3-11 p.m..  Surely helps having 2 people inside rolling it on taking 2 hours tops, if that, since my wife is a much better painter than I am.     

Man, that herculiner soaks up/dries pretty fast having to keep mixing the gritty texture into the paint, but did as instructed, very light first coat barely covering the white primer will need 2nd coat for sure.  I think the ONLY mid 50's temps is NOT allowing it to dry fully  in 4 hours as was suppose to be the case.  Glad though I put on the 1 gallon of primer suppose to cover 400 sq. feet and didn't even do 200 sq. feet all used up yesterday.  I only used up barely OVER 1 gallon of herculiner first coat states 120 sq. feet coverage with one coat (or 60 sq. feet two coats)  and trailer is 180 sq. feet so I know the oil based kilz complete white primer helped a TON. 

Surely hope 2 coats cover well since don't feel like doing a 3rd coat later in the week since suppose to rain Tuesday and Wednesday now with falling temps.   

[cookiedough]

Opened the trailer up this morning ready to put 2nd coat inside enclosed trailer.  NO GO!  Still tacky, even after applying on Saturday mid-day, when I walked inside the trailer today at 10 a.m. NO sense in mucking it up with white residue from socks somewhat sticking to the herculiner. 

LACK OF SUN is the culprit here I believe , as well as temps in the mid 50's is all, since the front and rear ramp doors were not as sticky walking on with the socks.   Gallon instructions states to put 2nd coat on within 24 hours of being dry, guess will have to wait another day but rain next 2 days is going to suck as well.  This 12 hour project is turning into days and days of getting it done. 

I got both ramp doors done just now and looks nice with 2nd coat since do not have to walk on those areas.  Going outside now to attempt to remove the blue painters tape from the edging of the ramp doors since suppose to take tape off ASAP but probably going to have to cut the tape off regardless since that bedliner is rubberized and sticks to everything.