1999 won't run but three seconds

[sid]

valk was driven from storage to gas station then to garage, ran fine, then two weeks later, will not run but 3 sec then quits. have pulled tank and install external fuel supply, have pulled gas feed off left bank,line to there not plugged, if I pour gas in carb intakes bike will run longer. any suggestions out there ??

[hubcapsc]

Valkyries can have big trouble with petcocks that need rebuilt... if it ran
fine before, its probably mostly OK...

-Mike

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

Valkyries can have big trouble with petcocks that need rebuilt... if it ran
fine before, its probably mostly OK...

-Mike

I said the same thing when I talked with Sid this morning . He's feeding gas straight ( by-passing the petcock ) and it still will only run a few seconds .

[gordonv]

And how is it running for a few sec only? While on chock or?

I'm thinking electrical.

Have you checked the battery? Maybe add a jumper from a known good battery.

Other than that, a low spark maybe. When cranking, it will fire up only after there is a large build up of fuel, then after that burns off to a normal level, it dies. I've had this issue with cars before. More electronics. Don't know what there could be on the bike that would match it.

[Ricky-D]

If you can get it running only a few seconds, be assured the problem is not electrical.

Try draining some gas from the bottom of each carburetor. The chances are the bowls are

crummed up and the possibility you have ran some of that crud up into the low speed

gallery is high. Hopefully a good strong dose of additive will clean up your problem, but that

will be only if you are attentive in how you approach and carry out the cure.

***

[John Schmidt]

Here's a suggestion when draining the carbs. Attach a MityVac to the drain hose that hangs out under the bike on the right side with a couple other hoses. Pump up the MV good and open one carb drain screw. By doing the above, it creates turbulence in the bowl and draws out more junk if in there. Close that drain screw and do the same with each of the six carbs. I agree with Ricky, most likely not electrical but if there's any junk present it most likely has been drawn into the metering system. When you fed it sans the tank, did you use the normal fuel line that attaches to the petcock? I'd first drain the carbs as described, then use the main feed from the petcock to your external feed. Don't use a fuel feed off one bank, it won't distribute evenly enough to the other side.

[Mo Lee]

I'll be following this thread. I guess I misunderstood you on the phone, I thought it ran ok on an external tank. I still stand by a strong dose of seafoam for a few days, if not  it may require a carb teardown.

[sid]

update... I used a Ketchup squirt bottle to feed fuel directly into air intake tubes, got engine to run that way, held it about 3500 RPM till fuel ran out, did that 2X. now engine will idle under full choke with external fuel but will not go up in RPM. looks like power or high speed jets are clogged. running Sea Foam in idle mode. now to find the carb drains

[Ricky-D]

Yeah, you've gone ahead with your shortcuts and have probably caused yourself to be in

a heap of carburetor trouble. Now you want to use probably the weakest of all the additives

available. I foresee many more posts regarding this particular Valkyrie and expect it may

be way next year, if by then, this bike ever gets running in a proper fashion. Get some Berrymans

or Techron as a starter.

***

[nogrey]

Not sure if this will help. I guess it is something to ponder. I rode for 4 days with another friend who was riding a carbureted gold wing. On our last stretch we stopped for gas. We left the station and his bike would run for awhile and then die. We got him home. We figured bad fuel somehow. Anyway, he drained the tank and refilled with some good fuel and symptoms haven't returned. Since you filled the tank and the problem began, do you think that might be a possibility?
How long was your bike in storage?
Another easy suggestion: Remove one of the fuel bowls. You can do this pretty easily with an offset screwdriver. Pick one of the bowls from the right side (low side of bike while on kickstand). When you get the bowl off, take a look at how much gunk is in there. If it's varnished up and comes out hard, you've probably got six others that are just as bad. If there's a fair amount of gunk, you're probably looking at cleaning the carbs.
I've used seafoam for years. It's never done much for me when carbs were dirty. It's a great insurance for keeping them clean though. Berryman's is also good. None of them will clean out gunked up slow jets. It's really rare for high speed jets to clog. Especially all six. If they're clogged, you're for sure looking at disassembly and cleaning.

[dancnman]

Sid, where are you located? I have had and trouble shot fuel problems on 5 or 6 Valkyries. There is no shortcut to gunked up carbs. Pull them off and clean them. Ask for help to do that. If you are close to Houston, I can help.

[98valk]

B12 chemtool is much better to use then seafoam

[dancnman]

B12 chemtool is much better to use then seafoam

Ditto on B12. Nothing better. Goes in everything I own.

[sid]

thanks guys, so far i drained left bowls,  started using straight gas to purge the heavy seafoam, now have it starting and running without choke, sounds like hell, speeds up and down with steady throttle, busy till Saturday, will drain right side then. stay tuned for report.

[98valk]

thanks guys, so far i drained left bowls,  started using straight gas to purge the heavy seafoam, now have it starting and running without choke, sounds like hell, speeds up and down with steady throttle, busy till Saturday, will drain right side then. stay tuned for report.

up and down idle means vacuum leak.
check the vacuum caps on the intake manifolds, known to go bad.
then pair valve lines,
last intake manifold O-rings if first two don't fix the idle.

[hukmut]

If/when you take your carbs apart for cleaning, BE SURE to replace those float needles. Those little springs will have weakened through years of use. It is a must do. One of the best things that you can do to your bike to prevent hydrolock. IMHO.
Berryman B-12 is a good strong carb cleaner that has been shown to be effective in cleaning gunked-up fuel system.
Ride safe.

[valkyriemc]

If/when you take your carbs apart for cleaning, BE SURE to replace those float needles. Those little springs will have weakened through years of use. It is a must do. One of the best things that you can do to your bike to prevent hydrolock. IMHO.
Berryman B-12 is a good strong carb cleaner that has been shown to be effective in cleaning gunked-up fuel system.
Ride safe.

Real good advice.