washer and dryer issues

[cookiedough]

when it rains, it pours I guess?

Washer is vibrating in spin cyle excessively moving the entire unit 1" over while vibrating over last few weeks.

Is a 22 year old whirlpool bought new in 1993 along with our whirlpool electric dryer.  The front and back leg supports are level as well which is the first obvious things to check for with washer being level on top and on base both. 

I watched 2 hours of youtube videos on how to disassemble washer yesterday and took cover off and top unit and NO 4 springs broke or loose,  all 6 white plastic support/suspenion tabs look NOT worn down from what I can see of them (3 on each side top and 3 on bottom in same area) to NOT have metal to metal contact on bottom of unit), and below the inside agitor in middle the collar is tight as it should be.

ONLY other thing it can be that is repairable or replaceable is the inner bearing tube/collar down below the tubs on the shaft I have not taken off yet which I doubt can wear down and be an issue.  I thought for sure was a worn or broken spring or the 6 white plastic tabs for tub support were broke or worn down excessively which is NOT the case after 22 years of normal use.  Those 2 items are the main culprits of excessive shaking on drying cycle I believe.

On top of that,  wife started dryer yesterday and is not heating fully takes 1 hour or more to dry a load of clothes vs. say 40 minutes.  Took cover behind off and on front bottom (man, lint down there), but the vent tube is perfectly clean NO blockage or full of lint.  

So, I guess if problems continue, not worth spending 100 bucks each on a service call and iffy if fixable anyways nothing is obvious needing replacing (springs are fine and not worn down or loose fitting/white plastic suspension snap in tabs are not worn down much that I can see) and have to spend 800 on a washer and 600 or so on an electric dryer.

I called 3 places and speed queen washers are the best they say but not the fanciest but will last 20+ years like my old whirlpools have, then #2 is maytag owned by whirlpool, then #3 whirlpool.  All 3 places said LG and Samsung are not worth buying - Any ideas out there, please respond - thanks!!

[xman]

If the dryer is blowing air ok and not plugged with lint, then it must be a heat issue. The heating element  may have burned open a piece of the element. They are normally mounted in the air duct on the back.

The washer I don't know.

[Oss]

Get a new front loader from Sears  cheap enough

If the washer is not spinning right the clothes are too wet and you will need a new belt and maybe pulleys on the dryer

We have honest repair people and I dont mind the service call cause he tells it like it is and backs up his repairs no questions asked.

Invest in the service call to be sure is my 2 cents

good luck

[Roidfingers]

Dryer sounds like an element issue. Ive changed a few. Maytag was a PITA most others are just on the back under a cover. Easy 15 minute change. If you can find the element. But first ohm's check the element to be sure its bad. Average about 30 bucks for one. Also insure all the vents are clear from inside dryer to outer exhaust.

[Momz]

In today's market you might be better off purchasing a single washer/dryer unit.

And if space is a premium, there are RV units available. We are considering this type of unit and putting it into an upstairs bathroom. Yes they are small units, but just me and my wife in our household so a smaller unit would do just fine.

We are experiencing several appliance issues currently, so we need to consider more convenient solutions.
And learning from YouTube videos about appliance repair has worked.

[..]

Drier, What they said.

Someone should have a YouTube video of the model you have showing the element replacement.

[gordonv]

I work for an international OPL (on premises laundry) company. Mainly in the shop, rebuilding machines. Other times I'm the go-fore.

Your washer is a top load, by the mention of the agitator. Most walking is from unbalanced loads, along with the aforementioned broken parts which you confirmed where not.

As for the dryer, it's already been mentioned, heating element. There are only a few components on a dryer. Basically the Hi and Low temp sensor, the heating element, motor/blower, belt and a temp sensor. Some have a moisture sensor too. More, like bearings, glides, and seals, but those make noise.

I think the temp or moisture sensor needs looking at. Run the dryer if you can observe the heating element, look for it turning on/off. Run it with the door open, and feel the air coming from the heater, that might work.

What could be wrong with the dryer, you need a meter. Me, I have used/new replacement parts to swap out, easier and faster than actually figuring out what is wrong. So I'm not really a repair man.

I just replaced my dryer of 30+ years, with a 3 year old one used, which was cheaper than the parts to fix my dryer, and everything working. $200. New of the same model was $600.

I think we all should be running a high speed front load washer, because the cloths come out dryer after spinning faster. Less time to dry. Saves you money after spending a few.

Pick up a used pair from someone selling a 2 year old set. Most of these things are not worth the cost of a repairman. For a few $ more, you get a low mileage model.

As for Maytag/Whirlpool, stay away from them, they are the same. Unless you buy an older original Maytag, with their old quality.

[cookiedough]

Drier, What they said.

Someone should have a YouTube video of the model you have showing the element replacement.

Yah,  youtube videos surely make it easier to figure out the washer possible problems, but the 3 pointed out areas are not it 95% sure on that.  The springs are solid and look darn near brand new not worn out or broke along with the 6 white pads.  So, for now, will use it on 'gentle' cycle for 6 minutes per cycle doing 3 loads today after re-installing it all vs. 10-12 minutes on normal load will be good enough for now,  plus not overloading the washer which we have done for dozens of years with 2 kids plus wife and me craming in more than we should.    That 450-500 spent though on each in 1993 hasn't cost us a dime in 23 years so throwing some money, say 100 bucks or so,  into them won't break the bank.    All the easy stuff on the washer has not panned out yet and called a few repair techs late Friday and they said in 20 or so years they usually start showing oil seepage down below but mine is rock solid dry and for the most part,  looks only 5 years old at most in the internals underneath the cover.   I could throw 40-50 bucks in 4 new springs,  rear inner bearing plate on shaft below the tubs, and 6 new white plastic shims/shock absorbers between metal plates down below but all look just fine to me. 

The dryer still heats somewhat hot, but not drying like it should, but still dries just takes 20-30 minutes longer than normal is all.   Hey,  at least I fixed the loose lower front dryer cover today was missing a screw for over 1 year now being loose lower 12" tall plate on one side jiggling and making noise.  I pulled the dryer out to check for plugged vent tube and found the screw under there and figured out how to undo the bottom 2 clips and put the screw back in so the front door no longer jiggles when drying the clothes, been very annoying.   At least I got something accomplished today if nothing else besides putting a screw back in place - only took 1+ year to do. 

[Wewaman]

Dryer:  Like Gordon said you need a volt meter .  There are usually 3 different Thermisters that are along the Heating element cover.  You need to OHM all of them along with the heating element , just touch each  end of the wire with the probes. (one probe on each metal end of the wire where it attaches to the Thermister, and the one that is different is the broken one.  If it is a thermister, make sure you  look at it and get the correct temp , example 309 degrees farenheight. The temp will be stamped on it.  Pretty simple repair just pull the 2 wires off and remove the screw holding it on.  you can usually get them online for around $10.00

Good luck,
  Wewa

[BobB]

Dryer:  Like Gordon said you need a volt meter .  There are usually 3 different Thermisters that are along the Heating element cover.  You need to OHM all of them along with the heating element , just touch each  end of the wire with the probes. (one probe on each metal end of the wire where it attaches to the Thermister, and the one that is different is the broken one.  If it is a thermister, make sure you  look at it and get the correct temp , example 309 degrees farenheight. The temp will be stamped on it.  Pretty simple repair just pull the 2 wires off and remove the screw holding it on.  you can usually get them online for around $10.00

Good luck,
  Wewa

What he said...  Our washer and dryer are 26 years old.  The only thing that has gone bad are the thermo overload breakers/fuses in the heating circuit of the dryer.  The falty parts were sold as a kit and went in easily...

[Gavin_Sons]

Sounds like your washer has a bad tub bearing. Had one go bad in 4 years on a junk front load whirlpool.  It was 20 days before our extended 5 year warranty was out so they paid me back and we went back to a top load. My brother is a appliance tech and he swears by speed queen. If you are going to buy new look into the speed queens.

[old2soon]

I have a Whirlpool electric dryer that quit heating. When I pulled the heating element it was immediately apparent that it was in technical terms-broke!  The model number was still visible on the heating element and started looking on line. After starting north of 60 bucks I found one for about 15 bucks including delivery. My first thought was clogged with lint which WAS NOT the case. JUST the heating element burned out. I attached the broken ends of wire to each other and was able to dry clothes like that until the new heating element showed up and I installed it. Not much help on your washer issue. RIDE SAFE.

[cookiedough]

Sounds like your washer has a bad tub bearing. Had one go bad in 4 years on a junk front load whirlpool.  It was 20 days before our extended 5 year warranty was out so they paid me back and we went back to a top load. My brother is a appliance tech and he swears by speed queen. If you are going to buy new look into the speed queens.

Yah,  that is the only thing left I can think of, but to get at that,  I have to take both the metal/white porcelain tub and plastic tub out.  All else looks fine.  If we are talking about the same thing on this top load whirlpool model lsc6244AWO model,  it is basically a 15 dollar metal cylinder that goes over the middle rod/shaft tightly below the tubs on the middle main rod is all I think it is.  Wonder how that can go bad even after 22 years??  I am not 100% sure, but the online pics don't show any bearings in it, just a metal sleeve (collar) that slides down into place is all it is.  Maybe after so many spin cycles, that metal collar gets loose or worn out, but not likely to happen I would think????