Wax wheel???

[DK]

I mounted a new front tire today & polished the wheel while it was dismounted.

Should I wax the wheel while it is bright & shiny?

I recall some posts to the effect that the mounting procedure as set forth in the Valk shop manual is incorrect.

Should I follow the shop manual or the previous forum posts?

Any help would be appreciated.

Dan

[indybobm]

I think waxing the wheel is a good idea.
As far as front wheel installation is concerned, I have questioned the procedure in the shop manual. One step is unnecessary and one step is left out.
Here is what I do:
1. Assemble the axle / front wheel assembly in the forks.
2. Push the axle in until it is absolutely flush with the outside of the left fork.
3. Tighten the left fork pinch bolts.
4. Make sure that the speedometer drive is against the stop on the left fork.
5. Install the axle bolt on the right side and tighten to the correct torque spec.
6. Torque the right fork pinch bolts.
7. Install the front brake calipers to the forks and torque to spec.
8. Loosen the left fork pinch bolts.
9. While applying the front brake bounce the front end up and down a number of times.  This centers the left brake caliper over the rotor.
10. Tighten the left fork pinch bolts to spec.
11. Install the speedometer cable. and pinch bolt covers

[DK]

Indybobm,

Thanks, much appreciated.

Dan

[DK]

Indybobm,

After doing it, I understand why your method is correct:  after the axle bolt is installed & torqued, the right side wheel, brake disc, & fork relationship is fixed - so loosening the left pinch bolts, applying the brakes & jostling things allows the left side to comply with the already fixed right side.

Loosing the right pinch bolts & torquing them after pumping the forks as per the manual serves no purpose as the right side relationships are already fixed after the axle bolt is torqued.

Hope this makes sense.

Dan

[Bagger John - #3785]

I make a 50/50 mix of Mother's Carnauba Wax and Collinite Metal Wax by blending the products in a partially emptied Mother's tin. Note: Do NOT use this stuff on shiny chrome, painted or clearcoated surfaces...it's mildly abrasive.

The mix can then be applied to any non-clearcoated Valkyrie wheel. Use it like you would a glazing compound - keep the applicator wet with the stuff as you work an area then when nice and shiny, let that section dry and move to the next. When done with the whole wheel, buff off with a soft cotton cloth.

One treatment usually lasts the entire season unless the bike sees a lot of wet weather riding...then I'll repeat if a simple washing won't make the wheels shiny once again.

[Kye]

Yep, I polished my wheels about a year ago with compound and polishing / buffing mops. An occasional polish with a caranuba wax is keeping them beautiful. 

[indybobm]

Indybobm,

After doing it, I understand why your method is correct:  after the axle bolt is installed & torqued, the right side wheel, brake disc, & fork relationship is fixed - so loosening the left pinch bolts, applying the brakes & jostling things allows the left side to comply with the already fixed right side.

Loosing the right pinch bolts & torquing them after pumping the forks as per the manual serves no purpose as the right side relationships are already fixed after the axle bolt is torqued.

Hope this makes sense.

Dan

Thanks DK, I have brought this up before and am glad that it worked for you.
My big concern is that if the Service Manual procedure is followed it can lead to clicking from the left front brake because the left fork has not been positioned correctly.
The procedure in Shop Talk has the same error and can lead new 97-03 Valk owners to do it 'wrong'.