Tie downs... NOW I'm confused...

[CajunRider]

I've been told multiple times that one should NOT use the engine guards as a tie down point when trailering... but I noticed that Honda actually crates the bikes this way?????

So is this OK or is it NOT OK???? 

Referenced post:  (Hope you don't mind me using this, Dave)
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,83388.0.html

Picture (note the tie down points):

[hubcapsc]

That's how RJ always said to do it.

Hooking to the wrong place on the handlebars
is asking for trouble, if you put the hook someplace
that has leverage that might make the handlebars
spin in the riser clamps...

-Mike

[old2soon]

I've had the crash bars off of my I/S and with the way they are mounted I have ZERO problem using them when I trailer. I'd PREFER to go over the handle bars but there IS lotsa "stuff" in the way on an I/S. RIDE SAFE.

[The emperor has no clothes]

That's how RJ always said to do it.

Hooking to the wrong place on the handlebars
is asking for trouble, if you put the hook someplace
that has leverage that might make the handlebars
spin in the riser clamps...

-Mike

Thats good enough for me.  

[PAVALKER]

Recommend you check torque on upper shock bolts when you take delivery.  Honda uses those to as tie down points but sometimes the dealer doesn't re-torque those or use loctite.  I lost an upper shock bolt and the shock came off in a turn and jammed itself up in under the seat.  It was a VTX1800.

[John Schmidt]

Although many do it, I never use the engine guards for a tie down point. I observed first hand the top one snapping off when the driver hit some construction areas without warning. The bike turned into an 800 lb. loose cannon. I always use two straps on each side over the bottom tree, one is tied off forward, thereby holding the bike into the built-in wheel chock in my trailer. The other is straight off to the side, both snugged down with a slight fork compression. I remove the seat and hook a strap around the frame just behind the "Y" near the back end of the tank, then hook into it another floor mounted tie down that's slightly forward. That one I ratchet down tight. As a result, when a friend used my method and got knocked off the road near Dallas some years ago, his trailer got dumped on its side but the bike never moved. When it comes to tying a bike down, always use the frame wherever/whenever possible. Since the steering stem is nearly the same size as the frame members I have no issue using the lower tree as a tie down point. But the bolts used on the engine guard and rear guards will, and have, snapped. Repairing that with a bolt snapped off flush....have fun. 

[Ice]

When I shipped my Valk to Germany and back again I used the engine guards to strap the beast down, never had an issue. I actually prefer to tie her down there, less stuff to pinch or jam while tightening the straps.

[LL]

Even though the Honda dealer I use said he always ties off to case guards, he also says he buys auction bikes that have broke loose from crates supported off case guards.

 I can tell you this, once you see your own bike supported off case/crash bars and their bolts have sheared off (doesn't matter if they are grade 8 either, the frame isn't grade , you will begin using soft-ties off the lower triple trees with the front wheel in a chock on the front end, and the rear end will be supported either thru the frame or around the rear wheel to keep it from bouncing around.

[Hook#3287]

I tie off the crash frame first, then back it up with the bars.

Got to be careful with the bar straps, as they will snap off the turns signals.

One year I took the Amtrak from Washington to FL for a wedding.  I only had a week and I didn't want to spend 4 days on I-95.  It was very cool.

What I learned from them was to double up the straps.

[cookiedough]

When I transport my ATV's,  I always use the front/rear racks and compress the suspension both front/rear.  However, they say it is best to frame mount on both fron/rear and let the suspension do the work bouncing up and down.

I don't think it matters either way to be honest, both will work, as long as you have 4 straps 2 in back and 2 in front secure. 

I would think though the crash bar in front is fine thus allowing the front suspension to work up/down as intended and less chance of the fork seals going bad from overtightening using the handlebars. 
Tightening down the rear suspension is not as vulnerable to problems compressing the rear shocks as it is the front fork seals but could use the frame as well in back vs. compressing rear shocks.

If I was trailering with a good wheel chock in the front tire,  it would be similar to what Dave's new Wing in the crate looks like. 

[Daniel Meyer]

Strapping a valk....I've heard the term...but I don't understand what it means

[Serk]

Strapping a valk....I've heard the term...but I don't understand what it means

I think it involves padded handcuffs, a nice bed, and a willing Valkyrie...

Oh wait, are ya'll talking about Valkyrie motorcycles??

[CajunRider]

Strapping a valk....I've heard the term...but I don't understand what it means

       

Only time I tied down the Wing was when a forest critter took out my radiator at 85 mph.       

[Pappy!]

.....85mph? That's a fast forest critter !

[Dave Ritsema]

I've been told multiple times that one should NOT use the engine guards as a tie down point when trailering... but I noticed that Honda actually crates the bikes this way?????

So is this OK or is it NOT OK???? 

Referenced post:  (Hope you don't mind me using this, Dave)
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,83388.0.html

Picture (note the tie down points):

No worries. 

As others have said, I have always followed RJ's advice and used the front case guards. I will tell you that the one time I put my F6B on a trailer and used the case guards they did flex a bit and were not as substantial as the Valkyrie was. I had no problems in either case however.