DIY Murphy bed

[Roidfingers]

So I have a spare room that is only used, maybe once or twice a year. I thought hey ! Why not buy a Murphy bed and that way I can free up the room to put my treadmill and Total gym in.
Well I got to looking online for murphy beds and was shocked. 1500.00 ??? dang. Then I thought well what about just the hinge assemblies? 360.00 ??? Ouch.
So without any plans and just the mattress dimensions, here's what I built with just a lot of forward thinking.
I still have to sheave the sides and install a hinged piece of trim at the top. Also gonna cover the hinges at bottom with same trim.
The feet underneath are hinged and will stow in the space at head of bed when not in use.

Total cost...... Bout 150.00

Any extra thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

[Hook#3287]

Looks well made 

[JimmyG]

I'd love to see your drawings or plans that you finalized on this. I am planning on the same thing and love looking at ideas for these.
The trick seems to be to have it assisted to raise it up and secure it.   You Might make part of the leg system hinged as well to be part of the cover trim for the bottom. As the bed lowers, the legs swing in position to support bed.  There are some neat ideas floating around, but for simplicity, I like your beginnings. 

[Roidfingers]

Everything is screwed and glued. I never use nails on any project if I can use a screw. Cant decide if I want to stain or paint though.

[Roidfingers]

JimmyG, I had no plans. Just went with the dimensions of the quenn mattress. 60 x 80 and did some ( a lot ) of forward thinking. I would be glad to help you in anyway I can.

[JimmyG]

I understand, I build a lot and never have plans, just like you, forward thinking. Often, I put her in reverse and begin again, LOL.  My idea is similar to yours, but using a hinged leg system.

[Roidfingers]

I also thought about the hinged leg system. But in order to do that you would have to use at least a 7/8 plywood for support. Mines 15/32 to be exact. The weight of the 7/8 plywood and mattress would need two people to lift. Unless u pay the 350 for the helper springs.

Also you have to take in account for the mattress thickness. Mines 8 inch memory foam. You will need a gap at the top, as in picture, to allow it to pass through the opening. That's where I will have a similar piece of trim hinged to cover the gap but allow me to put bed up. Then lock in place.

[PAVALKER]

Speaking of legs......I don't see them in the bottom photo, but see some 2x used as such on the down position.  Where do they go or attach when up?

[Roidfingers]

PA VAlker,  2 x 8 1/2 . Level with front of bed. They are separate but also hinged to be stowed in the area behind the head of the bed. I lift it up slightly. pull out footings. place bed on floor. stow  them and then raise the bed. Makes it so sturdy I can dance on it when down.

[samoanrich]

What's your ceiling height? Daughter and I are in the planning stages of building one for her. Older home, with low ceilings upstairs, not sure we have the height.

[old2soon]

What's your ceiling height? Daughter and I are in the planning stages of building one for her. Older home, with low ceilings upstairs, not sure we have the height.

      IF your ceiling is too low for the length go from the width.  Just one of dose random thoughts.  RIDE SAFE.

[Roidfingers]

sam, its 8 ft. But like said. U can do it horizontily

[Roidfingers]

I've also thought about a trunk type system where the platform is hinged. have a memory foam mattress then fold up and lock the trunk shut. would need more floor space but no ceiling space.

[Jess from VA]

It's great to free up room space.  But obviously, if you put furniture where the bed comes down, it will still have to be moved before using the bed.

But I still like the idea and your craftsmanship.  I didn't flunk Shop class 1, but I was informed I had probably reached my potential and should not bother with Shop class 2.  It's kind of funny, because they told me the exact same thing about Typing class 2.

I also have a spare bedroom (mostly storage/unfurnished), and also need a spare bed once or twice a year.

My king bed is one box spring and two mattresses (the first was too hard, but still new, so I removed the frame when adding the 2d mattress so I didn't have to use a ladder to get in and out).  When it's time for a guest, I just yank the extra king mattress off my bed and drag it across the hall. 

[Jersey mike]

Murphy beds make me think of this, probably the best ever.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bQZ-xQ329lA

[cokebottle10]

You could use a hinge torsion spring like on a triler ramp to help lift the bed.

Thanks, David in Fletcher NC

[Roidfingers]

Just trying to keep it simple. But yes you could. just have to make room for it when u build it.

[Disco]

Great job, RF!  Especially the budget part.      

I recently did some shopping for Murphy beds and was quickly shocked at how much they can cost. 

So, I ricocheted off to shopping for just the hardware.  Same story.   

http://www.murphybeds.com/shopHardware

[Roidfingers]

EXACTLY  !!!!!!!!!!! lol

[Jess from VA]

I'm always interested in history, so I looked it up.

http://mentalfloss.com/article/30266/who-was-murphy-and-why-there-bed-named-after-him

[Jersey mike]

If you cannot come up with a hidden mechanical way to lower and raise the bed, what about a exterior mounted rope and pulley. Once the bed is lowered, the rope can be moved aside and stored and when it's time to raise the bed, reattached and then stored aside. It may not be the concealed but it may help and be better than squatting and lifting.

[Roidfingers]

Actually, I have no trouble at all. And its only gonna be used once or twice a year anyway.

[Jess Tolbirt]

whoever comes over to visit can lower and raise the bed for you