New Oil Filter

[indybobm]

I finally depleted my supply of Supertech ST7317 oil filters. Years ago when I heard that Walmart was going to stop carrying them I bought up a multi-year supply.
After reading many posts I bought the Purolator Pure One PL16410.

Holy crap, what a hideous color. Just hope it works.

[..]

It will work.

[indybobm]

Thanks, I know it will work. I just have not seen that color since the last diaper I changed over 27 years ago.

[bentwrench]

Ya,baby turd great color .Love the filter ,just paint it black before spinning it on.

[Oss]

not only does it work you can now empty the whole gallon of Rotella T or whatever you like
into the Valk  

[Mr Whiskey]

So Purolator's design change doesn't affect the Valk?
Some post on the Wing board 'bout slow leaks.
Purolator changed the baseplate from concave to convex on all their 14610 & 14612 lines, Classic & Pure One.
This is rumored to be from Puralator in response to a customer.....

"At Purolator, we continually strive to provide improved innovation and performance of our products. Late last year we re-designed the baseplate assembly for our 14612 product offerings. This change included PureONE and Purolator Classic as well as our commercial brands.

Why the change? The 14612 series fits many applications from families including Chevy, Ford, Mazda, Infinity, Subaru and Nissan. A few of these applications are particularly difficult to reach. In order to improve the overall customer experience, we changed the baseplate design to provide additional thread engagement and a more noticeably “snug” feel when hand-tightening the filter. This improvement was accomplished by: 1. Changing the base plate from a concave to a convex design; and 2. Slightly increasing the height of the gasket.

While the “feel” of hand installation is noticeably enhanced with these changes, it is always recommended to use a torque wrench specification of 12-15 Nm (approximately a 3/4 final tightening turn) to ensure proper seal."

Jus' something to be aware of.
New style on left, old style on right.......
(Pic judiciously lifted from above mentioned Wing board!)


P.S. I hated the "high yellow" color so much, I always set mine on a piece of cardboard & spray paint them with high heat grill black
YMMV

[Patrick]

The 7317 number is one that fits most if not all the Honda line and some others. Other makers make/offer that same number.

[sixlow]

Howbout these Honda auto filters I use .
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/srchrslts.jsp?search=sku&catcgry1=&inputstate=&srchwords=15400-PLM-A01&vinnosrch=Enter+VIN+Number+---
5.04 each right now

[John Schmidt]

Hmmm....I see that bolt well to the left of the filter in the picture is still dirty. 

Just had to bring that back up. 

[Ken Tarver]

Howbout these Honda auto filters I use .
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/srchrslts.jsp?search=sku&catcgry1=&inputstate=&srchwords=15400-PLM-A01&vinnosrch=Enter+VIN+Number+---
5.04 each right now

That's what I use sixlow
My neighbor is a Honda auto mech and brings them to me
I paint 'em silver.

Ken

[cookiedough]

gotta go black oil filter, thus I use carquest branded oil filter (I think WIX makes them) or use Hi-flo oil filters, both black to match the black I/S.

Not that it matters.

[indybobm]

Jus' something to be aware of.
New style on left, old style on right.......
(Pic judiciously lifted from above mentioned Wing board!)

I bought the filter at Advance Auto and it is the old style (concave). Guess it is still in transition. Not too hard to open the box and look at it before you buy it.

[Steve K (IA)]

I was upset with the yellow color but it's nothing a can of flat black heat resistant paint won't solve.
 

[sixlow]

Hmmm....I see that bolt well to the left of the filter in the picture is still dirty. 

Just had to bring that back up. 

Sorry bout that John, I grabbed the wrong pic from photobucket, here is a cleaner version with a better shot of some crud up higher that will stay !

[F6Dave]

The Pure One filters used to be blue.  I have no idea why they changed to that awful color.  They are easy to spray paint, though.  Sometimes I paint them silver.

[Willow]

I've been known to spray paint the outside of an oil filter or three.

I used the Walmart ST while they were marketing them.  As to any grief about the Honda or Walmart filters. I'm fairly confident that neither Walmart nor Honda operates an oil filter factory.

[The emperor has no clothes]

I've been known to spray paint the outside of an oil filter or three.

I used the Walmart ST while they were marketing them.  As to any grief about the Honda or Walmart filters. I'm fairly confident that neither Walmart nor Honda operates an oil filter factory.

WTF ! You mean there aren't any 10 year old Chinese kids in the basements of Bentonville ?

[Daddie O]

I use this oil filter on my Valk: 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYUXCUA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

I don't have to worry about not finding a filter ever again, and it looks great!

[The emperor has no clothes]

I use this oil filter on my Valk: 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYUXCUA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

I don't have to worry about not finding a filter ever again, and it looks great!

How long have you been using it ?

[Robert]

Don't like the color but like the grippe feel of the filter. On the 1800 really don't have to worry about the color and on the 1500 I use a chrome cover. The base plate is really a non issue since the recess where the oil filter screws into gives plenty of room to accommodate the new design.

[Robert]

I use this oil filter on my Valk: 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYUXCUA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

I don't have to worry about not finding a filter ever again, and it looks great!

You do realize that the filter does not do a really good job of removing particles from the oil right? Not to mention the cost, the mess and the fact that unless you have a ultrasonic cleaner you cannot really get all the contaminants out of the pleats. It costs 90.00 regular filters cost 4 to 8 and if you change at 8k miles you would have to do 9 to 10 oil changes to recoup your money. Unless your oil analysis does Particle Counting and Analytical Microscopy the analysis cannot tell of the amount of contaminants in the oil.  Of course different thinking is what makes the world right. 

[MP]

I use this oil filter on my Valk:  

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYUXCUA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

I don't have to worry about not finding a filter ever again, and it looks great!

You do realize that the filter does not do a really good job of removing particles from the oil right? Not to mention the cost, the mess and the fact that unless you have a ultrasonic cleaner you cannot really get all the contaminants out of the pleats. It costs 90.00 regular filters cost 4 to 8 and if you change at 8k miles you would have to do 9 to 10 oil changes to recoup your money. Unless your oil analysis does Particle Counting and Analytical Microscopy the analysis cannot tell of the amount of contaminants in the oil.  Of course different thinking is what makes the world right.  

That one has a micron rating of 35 microns.  Most of the regular, $5 filters have a micron rating around 20 microns.  Means the steel, $90 one lets thru a LOT of material in the 20 to 35 micron range, where a lot of the stuff is.  I will stick to the regular, $5 ones.

[Daddie O]

Made from laser cut, medical grade, 304 stainless steel micronic filter cloth, this filter provides 200 percent more filter area in many cases. Our stainless filter catches items down to 35 microns, which is about 3 times better than most good paper or brass filters. Unlike glued paper filters, the Flo oil filter pleat seam is welded and able to withstand up to 600 degrees. This filter maintains consistent flow under all conditions including extreme heat, the presence of water, and cold start ups where paper filters can flow so poorly that they often cause the bypass valve to open and allow unfiltered oil to enter your engine. This high tech filter technology is widely used in all types of auto racing including NASCAR, Indy type cars, Formula 1 and in the aerospace industry where filtration is of the utmost importance. In addition to all the other benefits, our filter helps keep the land fills free of old used filters. Cleaning instructions: Note - the original filter position to ensure correct installation. Clean filter at each oil change with solvent, contact cleaner, kerosene, or any other degreasing agent, even common dish soap. Blow air through the filter from the inside out to remove any small particles or cleaning agent from the screen. Lube rubber parts with clean oil before installation.

You can use what you like, but I use this filter and I'm happy with it.  It filters better, looks nicer and cools better than paper filters, as well as being reusable.

[98valk]

Made from laser cut, medical grade, 304 stainless steel micronic filter cloth, this filter provides 200 percent more filter area in many cases. Our stainless filter catches items down to 35 microns, which is about 3 times better than most good paper or brass filters. Unlike glued paper filters, the Flo oil filter pleat seam is welded and able to withstand up to 600 degrees. This filter maintains consistent flow under all conditions including extreme heat, the presence of water, and cold start ups where paper filters can flow so poorly that they often cause the bypass valve to open and allow unfiltered oil to enter your engine. This high tech filter technology is widely used in all types of auto racing including NASCAR, Indy type cars, Formula 1 and in the aerospace industry where filtration is of the utmost importance. In addition to all the other benefits, our filter helps keep the land fills free of old used filters. Cleaning instructions: Note - the original filter position to ensure correct installation. Clean filter at each oil change with solvent, contact cleaner, kerosene, or any other degreasing agent, even common dish soap. Blow air through the filter from the inside out to remove any small particles or cleaning agent from the screen. Lube rubber parts with clean oil before installation.

You can use what you like, but I use this filter and I'm happy with it.  It filters better, looks nicer and cools better than paper filters, as well as being reusable.

anything above 15 microns is what causes MAJOR wear of all journals.
that's why most great filters like Pure1 filter 12-15 microns.
SS filters are for race track use only and what they were developed for in the first place org for Nascar. for street use if provides zero filtration!

u can do what u want, if greatly wearing out your engine is your goal, go for it.

[MP]

"200% more filter area". 

So what?  You could have 10,000% more filter area, but if the holes are bigger, more crud gets thru. More filter area just means it will go longer before it plugs up. Has NOTHING to do with how well it is filtering.  The more micron size of the holes, the more crud gets thru.  The very fine particles cause very little wear.  The larger ones do more. 

 I am glad you are happy.  The motor will still run out a long life, but you are letting the vast majority of wear particles thru.

In fact, I bet if one changed oil every 3000 miles, one could still get 100,000 miles on a Valk engine before it wears out, without ANY filter at all, if filtered for a few thousand miles when new.

[cookiedough]

I had this debate with ATV riders me using my K&N air filter which is re-useable for life but apparently allows more dirt/dust to go thru unlike conventional paper air filters you discard after 3-4 years, depending on how dusty of conditions you ride in.  The debate continues....   

I think regular oil changes are the key to long engine life, that is a no brainer more so than what brand of oil or air filter or oil fiter you use.  Never heard though of a lifetime oil filter but if you think it works,  go for it.  I wouldn't, but to each their own. 

[98valk]

I had this debate with ATV riders me using my K&N air filter which is re-useable for life but apparently allows more dirt/dust to go thru unlike conventional paper air filters you discard after 3-4 years, depending on how dusty of conditions you ride in.  The debate continues....   

http://www.billswebspace.com/AirFilterTest.htm
no debate, actual ISO 5011 Standard (formerly SAE J726) air filter test clearly shows the amount of dirt a K&N lets in. Again it is an off road Race item, whereas the race engine will be rebuilt a lot. should never be used on the street. off road expecting to see water into the air box, foam filter correctly sized is the way to go, it will still flow air when wet. Not sure how a K&N, cotton gauze works when wet.

[Robert]

Actually the Pure One 4610 is longer than stock and if you cut it apart has about 3 to 4 times the amount of filtering area. Also if you do oil changes at home and just discard the filter it could be a bit more polluting but if you bring your oil and filter to a shop they recycle the oil and the filters get crushed so all the oil goes out of them and then they are discarded. So no environmental savings either. Race cars tear apart the motors frequently sometimes after every race.

After all is said and done though you could use olive oil and no filter and I think these bikes would go the distance. The stock filters are almost like having no filter at all anyway, because its like you said the ends have gaps that let the oil by.

[Daddie O]

The reusable filter that I use also has a super strength nickel-plated neodymium rare earth magnet is installed in the top of the element for magnetic pre-filtering of the oil.  I don't believe the paper filters have that either.  Go find a filter that filters down to 1 micron for all I care, but the smaller the micron the less flow.  That makes a difference, and even more so when the Valk is cold.  When the oil is thicker and going through a paper filter, the flow is so poor the bypass valve may open and allow unfiltered oil to enter your engine.

The challenge for filter manufacturers is balancing flow, efficiency and filter life. In order to stop particles in the 2 to 22μ range, the pores in the cellulose media used in many filters are too small to allow adequate oil flow.  I prefer good flow, good filtration, and good cooling rather than poor flow, overly restrictive filtration. and unfiltered oil entering the motor.  To each their own I guess.

[98valk]

The reusable filter that I use also has a super strength nickel-plated neodymium rare earth magnet is installed in the top of the element for magnetic pre-filtering of the oil.  I don't believe the paper filters have that either.  Go find a filter that filters down to 1 micron for all I care, but the smaller the micron the less flow.  That makes a difference, and even more so when the Valk is cold.  When the oil is thicker and going through a paper filter, the flow is so poor the bypass valve may open and allow unfiltered oil to enter your engine.

The challenge for filter manufacturers is balancing flow, efficiency and filter life. In order to stop particles in the 2 to 22μ range, the pores in the cellulose media used in many filters are too small to allow adequate oil flow.  I prefer good flow, good filtration, and good cooling rather than poor flow, overly restrictive filtration. and unfiltered oil entering the motor.  To each their own I guess.

the magnet is catching only what regular filters catch, another marketing trick.
a filter provides almost no measureable difference in cooling. again marketing lies. your engine is all aluminum which greatly removes heat.
u are just quoting the marketing lies of the filter company when it comes to micron filtering. that filter during operation and its pore size IS Letting unfiltered oil to enter the engine, (only electric motors are called motors, internal combustion engines are called engines) exactly what u say your filter is preventing during startup.
how thick is your oil and are u having cold startups at zero F? otherwise the filter is not going into bypass unless u run high revs before the engine gets to operating temp. still concerned use a 5w40 or 10w30 syn diesel oil. suggest read Motor oil 101 Dr Haas
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles
still concern about cold oil and startup then use a block/oil pan heater a large pore oil filter is not the answer.
metal mesh filters are for high sustained RPMs during extended periods. a regular paper type oil filter will aerate the oil and actually there are a few paper type filters made on purpose with larger pores for race use. in race conditions the filter is there for catastrophic conditions to catch large particles to prevent complete engine seizure.
suggest u do some deep research www.bobistheoilguy.com in the filter sections.
an oversized Pure1 will provide the best protection IMO.

[N8171S]

Cut the bottom off your favorite beverage, beer, and slip it over the filter.

[cookiedough]

I had this debate with ATV riders me using my K&N air filter which is re-useable for life but apparently allows more dirt/dust to go thru unlike conventional paper air filters you discard after 3-4 years, depending on how dusty of conditions you ride in.  The debate continues....   

http://www.billswebspace.com/AirFilterTest.htm
no debate, actual ISO 5011 Standard (formerly SAE J726) air filter test clearly shows the amount of dirt a K&N lets in. Again it is an off road Race item, whereas the race engine will be rebuilt a lot. should never be used on the street. off road expecting to see water into the air box, foam filter correctly sized is the way to go, it will still flow air when wet. Not sure how a K&N, cotton gauze works when wet.

YIKES,  I best remove my K&N air filter with protective breathable sleeve cover over it on my ATV ASAP as well as my K&N air filter with foam sheet over it as well on my Valkyrie, might be a flaming death for both units?  Luckily,  I usually do not drive too often, if I can avoid it,  on dusty ATV trails.  Still,  if you saw after a few ATV riding seasons me removing and washing out all that dirt in the K&N air filter, is pretty nasty dirt coming out of it before re-oiling.  It looks pretty clean just by looking at it, but once rinsing it under the sink in cold water,  is pretty amazing how much dirt particles are in there.  I wonder how many dirt particles have been going thru it though?

As far as K&N air filter on my cycle,  I rarely drive in rain or dusty conditions, so I think that a K&N air filter is more safe to use?