How do I remove this thing?

[cogsman]

I'm trying to inspect my o-rings. I have the mounting bolts removed and I loosened the upper retainer ring...

Is there a technique to getting this thing off? It won't budge! I don't want to wreck anything so advice would be appreciated.

[BradValk48237]

Loosen the lower Clamp also ....a lot.. wiggle and twist and they will pop out....

Did all 6 of mine a few years ago....

Might be the base is glued down with some baked on gunk,,, buy they do come out.

B

[hubcapsc]

When one or more is off, you can reach in there real easy to mess with carb
drains and vacuum lines... 

Fixing rotted carb drains won't make your bike run better, but fixing rotted
vacuum lines will... and new caps on the backs of runners with no lines.

I've looked at my O-rings at the same time as putting in a new air filter,
so I had the tank off... there's only a couple of bolts that hold on the
air box. With them out, and the bolts out of all the runners, the whole
contraption is just kind of free floating in there... it is real easy then...
a lot of folks hate taking off the tank though...

-Mike

[John Schmidt]

Just loosen that hose clamp shown in the picture, real loose. Then twist as you pull up and out on the bottom of the runner, out it comes. When replacing it, spray the rubber and the top of the runner with regular rubbing alcohol, then reverse your pressure. Hook the top outer area of the runner, then push in and up and it should pop into place. The alky is a great lube and will dissipate without leaving a residue.

[N0tac0p]

not too sure about the twisting, isn't there a square boss for alignment in the rubber and the intake?

[Steve K (IA)]

not too sure about the twisting, isn't there a square boss for alignment in the rubber and the intake?

Yes there is.  You want to keep it aligned how it will set in place while pushing in and upwards.  If you do that, the boss will slip into the notch.

[98valk]

remove tank, remove rear air box bolt, remove all manifold bolts, then easy to lift the entire carb assembly up enough to easily remove/install the intake manifolds without damaging anything.
IMO the only easy way to do it, which I have done many times.

[John Schmidt]

When I say "twist" I'm not talking about acting like you're wringing out a washcloth. Just a slight movement to help break it loose, nothing more. To replace those o-rings I have yet to remove the tank, simply not necessary. I usually loosen up the six bolts on the opposite side you're working on, don't remove them yet. That lets you lift one side of the carb bank and replace the o-rings often without even removing the runners. When done installing the new o-rings, set that side down and insert the six bolts but leave loose, then move to the other side, remove the bolts and replace those rings. When all are in place, snug all 12 bolts down and go for a ride.

By loosening one side while working on the other side allows you to lift the carb bank enough to actually clean underneath before resetting the runners. Keep in mind that old military adage: you want to find the easiest way to do something, give the job to the laziest guy in the outfit. I'm lazy! 

[cogsman]

Ok so the saga continues....

I managed to remove all three from the left side (2, 4 and 6)... realized there was an UPPER-upper retainer ring too! Once I loosened both, they came free... kind of...

First thing's first... see below; this is number 6. Replace?



Next... as you can see below, when I pulled off #6 the rubber retainer came off with it. When I pulled off #4 (the one i'm holding), the retainer stayed on the carb bank. Is this an issue either way?



Lastly, this is #2:



Am I crazy or does that O-ring look like it was just installed? Except it wasn't.. I had my left head gasket replaced in 2014, and have put almost 10k on the bike since...

Is #2 even firing???

I'm new to all this, but common sense tells me there should be some signs of wear.

Also, in another post, I was mentioning that when I pulled the carb top to move the needle stop, i noticed that #2 carb (and #4) were "wet" with what I thought was gas, but I've noticed coolant leaking under the engine along the cylinder head seam right under #2 and a little under #4.

Coincidence, or do I have another issue here? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Here are some pics of that leak (and I did check the top rad hose; it's not leaking):


Number 2


Numbers 2 and 4

[pancho]

                    "Is #2 even firing???" 

            Pull the plug,, that will tell you.

[cogsman]

Ok could you explain how it will tell me?

[98valk]

#6, that is some moron stealer mechanic using RTV instead of a new o-ring.
make sure that cylinder doesn't have burnt valves or burnt rings from an over lean condition due to the RTV causing a vacuum leak. or almost a hole in the piston. check plug with eye piece to see specks of aluminum on the center insulator.
if it bad shape u should get a new engine from that dealer. keep that intake manifold as is IMO for evidence.

[signart]

#2 is the way it should look, but if your going to inspect all of them, I would change them. I would worry about any work done by the guy that put that goop on the other one.