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Starting is a pain. Where to start?

Started by dpcarson, Sat 16, Apr 2016, 07:19:13

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dpcarson

Hey guys.  2000 IS is a bugger to start.  Fires up initially and then dies within a couple seconds.  If I am delicate enough I can work the throttle to keep it fired up until it warms up.  Better luck in warmer weather.  If I choke it it fires up for a couple seconds and then dies out also.  I went in last week and adjusted all mixtures screws to 2..25 turns.  Checked vacuum caps also.  She has been de-smogged.

On a note, after a couple attempts to start, if it does not run, then I have to walk away from it for about 30 minutes and then come back and usually have better luck.  If it has been run within the last 24 hours it is pretty easy to start.  But if it has sat for more than three or four days, it is much more difficult to start. 

Any ideas on where to start?
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In war, there are no unwounded soldiers.


Pete

Check the spark plugs if ok then:
Clean the carbs and replace the manifold O-rings

If spark plugs show rich check the air cleaner for air flow stoppage and gas tank petcock for proper function.

crash1980


Chrisj CMA

The first time I changed timing belts, I got one of them one tooth off.  Until I discovered the goof and corrected it, mine was hard to start too.

dpcarson

Pete.  All of those things are new.  I just pulled the engine on this last year and went through the carbs, new filter, new petcock, new rings and gaskets everywhere.  I bought it hydrolocked with busted starter gear and pulled the engine to replace that.  pretty much replaced everything while going back together.
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In war, there are no unwounded soldiers.


longrider

Pull the line off #6 that feeds the petcock and test to make sure it holds vacuum.  I have a feeling it's not getting fuel.  Do you shut the fuel off each time you stop for the day?

signart

Something quick n easy, try starting with tank lid open.

dpcarson

Excellent.  Thanks  Will try that as soon as I get home from work.
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In war, there are no unwounded soldiers.


MarkT

Adjusted valves lately?  If some are too tight you will get behavior like you mentioned.  Also, a weak battery will contribute to starting problems like this.  In the meantime start it with choke and get it to spin up immediately hold the rpms over 2000 for 30 sec or so then it should stay running.  I had the same problems with Deerslayer.  A valve adjustment cured it.  Always started easier with a ffesh battery.

Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4

dpcarson

Thanks Mark.  Have a fresh battery on it and keep it plugged to a tender.  Have not checked the valves.  Only have 40k miles on it so didn't figure valves would be likely but definitely worth checking.
thanks
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In war, there are no unwounded soldiers.


gordonv

I know you've been around, but you didn't say, you do know with the chock you have to turn it on till it doesn't want to move, and then force it about another 1/2".

After starting, and it doesn't rev high rpm, then I don't think the chock is on.
1999 Black with custom paint IS


MarkT

Quote from: dpcarson on Sat 16, Apr 2016, 14:56:40
Thanks Mark.  Have a fresh battery on it and keep it plugged to a tender.  Have not checked the valves.  Only have 40k miles on it so didn't figure valves would be likely but definitely worth checking.
thanks

Just FYI Jade had 26k miles on it & when I adjusted the valves 2 weeks ago several of them were too tight.  3 were loose.  After adjustment it ran noticeably better and of course quieter.  I doubt they had ever been adjusted and being 20 yrs old, kinda think that was partly why.

Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4

Bighead

Quote from: dpcarson on Sat 16, Apr 2016, 14:56:40
Thanks Mark.  Have a fresh battery on it and keep it plugged to a tender.  Have not checked the valves.  Only have 40k miles on it so didn't figure valves would be likely but definitely worth checking.
thanks
Also keeping a battery on a tender doesn't mean it is good or fresh.
1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing

desertrefugee

+1 on the battery condition and/or connections.  Firing six plugs through 3 coils takes a very solid primary ignition voltage.  Double check battery and its connections.  Amazing what a difference in ease of starting this can make.
'97 Bumble Bee,  '78 GL1000, '79 CBX, '78 CB750F, '74 CB750

Tfrank59

This sounds like a carburetor/choke/fuel-air mixture (possibly even vacuum leak) issue rather than electrical. He says it starts right up and runs then dies.
-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, '02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...

bigdanIA

Quote from: gordonv on Sat 16, Apr 2016, 18:04:04
I know you've been around, but you didn't say, you do know with the chock you have to turn it on till it doesn't want to move, and then force it about another 1/2".

After starting, and it doesn't rev high rpm, then I don't think the chock is on.

that's a fact, when i first got the valk i didn't realize the effort required to engage  the enricheners, basically you push the choke as far as it will go easily and then you push it another quarter turn (give or take) ... point is that if you are only pushing the enricheners as far as they will travel easily you are not doing anything, it takes some legitimate effort to overcome the enrichener springs...

WintrSol

Quote from: desertrefugee on Sat 16, Apr 2016, 22:22:03
+1 on the battery condition and/or connections.  Firing six plugs through 3 coils takes a very solid primary ignition voltage.  Double check battery and its connections.  Amazing what a difference in ease of starting this can make.
Don't forget the ground cable at the engine case; over time, even if not disturbed, it can build up resistance. A good scrub of the aluminum with something like deOxit can go a long way to getting more firing power.
98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service

Daniel Meyer

Quote from: bigdanIA on Sat 16, Apr 2016, 22:32:13
Quote from: gordonv on Sat 16, Apr 2016, 18:04:04
I know you've been around, but you didn't say, you do know with the chock you have to turn it on till it doesn't want to move, and then force it about another 1/2".

After starting, and it doesn't rev high rpm, then I don't think the chock is on.

that's a fact, when i first got the valk i didn't realize the effort required to engage  the enricheners, basically you push the choke as far as it will go easily and then you push it another quarter turn (give or take) ... point is that if you are only pushing the enricheners as far as they will travel easily you are not doing anything, it takes some legitimate effort to overcome the enrichener springs...

Yep, that's my vote. Description is classic/exactly what this acts like.
CUAgain,
Daniel Meyer

desertrefugee

For what it's worth, I almost never, even in winter, use the enrichening (choke) function on my Valkyrie.  It fires right up and runs smoothly, but slowly.  I use the throttle lock to hold the speed up, but even that is rarely needed. 

And, yes, sometimes it gets cool in Phoenix.  This practice has even worked for me with temperatures in the 40s (F).
'97 Bumble Bee,  '78 GL1000, '79 CBX, '78 CB750F, '74 CB750