Rear wheel bearings.

[Raverez]

Well, took the rear wheel off to take it to my local shop to have the tire changed. When checking the rear bearings, I noticed some possible grinding inside the axle. So when talking to the shop guy, I showed him and he suggested I change the bearings also.
My question is what is the part number for the bearings? I looked on Directline Parts website and see  a bearing on the left side, part number 17 on the diagram(6204uu) $20. And a right bearing, part 18 (20X47X20.6) for $50?   Before i order them I just want to make sure that is the correct parts. I need to tell the shop guy on Monday whether to order and replace them or not.
http://www.hondadirectline.com/OEMpartfinder.htm#/Honda/GL1500CA_(98)_MOTORCYCLE,_USA,_VIN%23_1HFSC340-WA100001/REAR_WHEEL/GL1500C-98-A/2Y14MZ0VE1AMZ04F1400BA

Thanks, Raul

P.S.  it's the sleeve inside the axle where I feel the grinding.

[rhinor61]

The left bearing is a single bearing and right side is a double ball bearing.

Many of us have done the rear wheel bearing mod, where you run the double ball bearing on both the left and right side, toss the seal and have the wheel spacer width cut down .20" ..
Check the SHop MOds for step by step instructions.

John

[Chrisj CMA]

Well, took the rear wheel off to take it to my local shop to have the tire changed. When checking the rear bearings, I noticed some possible grinding inside the axle. So when talking to the shop guy, I showed him and he suggested I change the bearings also.
My question is what is the part number for the bearings? I looked on Directline Parts website and see  a bearing on the left side, part number 17 on the diagram(6204uu) $20. And a right bearing, part 18 (20X47X20.6) for $50?   Before i order them I just want to make sure that is the correct parts. I need to tell the shop guy on Monday whether to order and replace them or not.
http://www.hondadirectline.com/OEMpartfinder.htm#/Honda/GL1500CA_(98)_MOTORCYCLE,_USA,_VIN%23_1HFSC340-WA100001/REAR_WHEEL/GL1500C-98-A/2Y14MZ0VE1AMZ04F1400BA

Thanks, Raul

P.S.  it's the sleeve inside the axle where I feel the grinding.

You may not need bearings.  It's sometimes tricky to get the spacer just right so you can roll the bearings without interference.  Try it again

[hubcapsc]

I wouldn't want to dispute the shop guy, he's seen what you're
talking about.

it's the sleeve inside the axle where I feel the grinding.

The axle runs through the bearings on each side and there's a
"distance spacer" (a slightly tapered tube that easily comes loose)
that it runs through inside the final drive. Is that the sleeve you
mean? If you have  your wheel off and can directly inspect the
bearings (like, jamb your finger in them and turn them and feel if
they're smooth and stuff), then by all means replace them if
they don't feel smooth or they feel "grindy" or something. Do
they feel good?

One of the bearings definitely costs around $50... it has a number
on it and can be sourced at a bearing house, but if the shop
is doing the work that's probably more hassle than it is worth...

-Mike

[Chrisj CMA]

I wouldn't want to dispute the shop guy, he's seen what you're
talking about.

it's the sleeve inside the axle where I feel the grinding.

The axle runs through the bearings on each side and there's a
"distance spacer" (a slightly tapered tube that easily comes loose)
that it runs through inside the final drive. Is that the sleeve you
mean? If you have  your wheel off and can directly inspect the
bearings (like, jamb your finger in them and turn them and feel if
they're smooth and stuff), then by all means replace them if
they don't feel smooth or they feel "grindy" or something. Do
they feel good?

One of the bearings definitely costs around $50... it has a number
on it and can be sourced at a bearing house, but if the shop
is doing the work that's probably more hassle than it is worth...

-Mike

Mike, I think he is talking about the spacer between the bearings inside the wheel

[Tfrank59]

This is a tough call to make from a distance. On the one hand it's expensive to purchase and change parts that might be OK, while on the other the wheel is off and access isn't a problem --maybe it's better to go ahead and replace bearings and seals and then you know they're good.

For what it's worth, I don't believe that the spacer between the wheel bearings should be "grinding" – it should be a snug fit between the inner races and should line up with those races without a fight.  So if there is any grinding going on it may well be the bearings, or else something has really gone south in there and needs to be investigated IMO.

[flash2002]

The left bearing is a single bearing and right side is a double ball bearing.

Many of us have done the rear wheel bearing mod, where you run the double ball bearing on both the left and right side, toss the seal and have the wheel spacer width cut down .20" ..
Check the SHop MOds for step by step instructions.

John

You mention tossing the seal, I did the mod on my bike and just glued the seal with silicone, works perfect.

[Tfrank59]

I know a lot of guys have done the double bearing mod, and I know there have been failures with the standard single row bearings (OEM), but I elected replace mine with the OEM configuration, and after about 15K everything's fine and I don't think I'm going to have any problems.

[old2soon]

I could be wrong but I M H O one of the first signs of wheel bearings on the way out or gone is that spacer inside the rear wheel NOT wantin to play nice. Reason I say that is last year my axle wouldn't go in and upon further review my wheel bearing(s) were toasted. RIDE SAFE.

[Chrisj CMA]

I could be wrong but I M H O one of the first signs of wheel bearings on the way out or gone is that spacer inside the rear wheel NOT wantin to play nice. Reason I say that is last year my axle wouldn't go in and upon further review my wheel bearing(s) were toasted. RIDE SAFE.

How big a hammer did you use to try to get the axle through.  Just wondering if it's possible to ruin the left bearing on accident trying to get the axle in with a maligned interior spacer?

[old2soon]

When I'm SURE It's all lined up I have a small plastic non marring hammer I use. AND I clean that axle off before reinstall. AND a light coat of lube on the axle. The 7 pound and 15 pound hammers are reserved fer other makes!  RIDE SAFE.

[Raverez]

Thanks for all the input. Think this time I'm going to let the shop guy change the bearings. Hopefully he'll do it right. Haven't used him before so I'm not sure of his work. Other people like him though and he works on all brands of bikes. I will talk to him tomorrow and will post the results.

[Raverez]

I could be wrong but I M H O one of the first signs of wheel bearings on the way out or gone is that spacer inside the rear wheel NOT wantin to play nice. Reason I say that is last year my axle wouldn't go in and upon further review my wheel bearing(s) were toasted. RIDE SAFE.

It was the spacer that didn't feel right to my untrained hand. It turned but seemed like there was some grit in it.