Inzane 17

Battery connections were loose!!UPDATE Replace the Start button or clean it?

Started by _Sheffjs_, Wed 18, May 2016, 09:00:23

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_Sheffjs_

If I replace it do they just sell the part needed or is it an entire housing assembly?

The new switch came in but with the advise listed here I decided to check the battery connections first. Yep!  They were loose. 10mm wrench and it fired right up!!



Gryphon Rider

It's the entire housing, both halves, including the kill switch, the start button, and the wiring harness to the connector in the headlight.

Danny McMillin

Replace, Replace, Replace! I danced with mine for 6 years, cleaned, worked fine for weeks or months, and clean again. Left me stranded several times on road, embarrassing when riding in groups. Never knew when I hit the start button, what was going to happen. BBF changed mine out at Inzane last year! Bought the entire switch , but changed out internals. My housing was chromed. Trouble free since, no more worries!!

_Sheffjs_


sandy

I've cleaned mine twice in 18 years and 153K miles. Still works perfect.

Chrisj CMA

#5
People have to keep messing with it because they dont fo the job right.  Its not just cleaning...its making sure it works properly.  Even my brand new one that I needed to order had to be fixed before it worked properly.

98 VALK

I have a 1998 tourer & it has original everything . Nothing to date has ever failed on this motorcycle. I did order the switch,starter stop complete assy the other day. Part # 35013-MZ0-020  $93.99 and a radiator cap also. No telling how many times that starter button has been hit. Amazing how these valk's were built to last.

John Schmidt

Quote from: _Sheffjs_ on Wed 18, May 2016, 12:34:40
Ordered    :cooldude:
Jerry, hope you didn't pay more than $61.84.... Procaliber.com

Now, listen to your Dutch Uncle.....install a relay as instructed in the link below. It can be installed in the headlight bucket and it removes the heavy current load off the start switch. Makes huge difference in the longevity of that rather important part of the bike. In the link, scroll down to the Start Switch Safeguard section and follow the steps. Sherry should be able to have it done in less than an hour.  :2funny:

Seriously, it's easy, but if you need help just holler.  :cooldude:

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html

Hook#3287

Quote from: 98 VALK on Wed 18, May 2016, 17:27:50
I have a 1998 tourer & it has original everything . Nothing to date has ever failed on this motorcycle. I did order the switch,starter stop complete assy the other day. Part # 35013-MZ0-020  $93.99 and a radiator cap also. No telling how many times that starter button has been hit. Amazing how these valk's were built to last.

Where did you order it?
ProCaliper.com
SWITCH SET, STARTER STOP
35013-MZ0-000

$61.84

h13man

Replaced mine 1 1/2 ago and since added a Smart Switch to alleviate all extra voltage passing thru the weak switch assembly. And yes you can make your own "Smart Switch" but the original is hassle free plug n' play.

desertrefugee

Quote from: Danny McMillin on Wed 18, May 2016, 09:30:03
Replace, Replace, Replace! I danced with mine for 6 years, cleaned, worked fine for weeks or months, and clean again. Left me stranded several times on road, embarrassing when riding in groups. Never knew when I hit the start button, what was going to happen. BBF changed mine out at Inzane last year! Bought the entire switch , but changed out internals. My housing was chromed. Trouble free since, no more worries!!

Properly cleaned, they'll provide another coupla decades of service - unless heavily pitted.  Usually, it's just a good cleaning that's needed..

Also, a faulty starter button should NEVER leave you stranded.   As with any vehicle with a starter relay, it's a pretty simple matter to jump the load terminals to get started.  Embarrassing that you have to pull the side cover, but not as embarrassing as calling for a tow for something so simple.
'97 Bumble Bee,  '78 GL1000, '79 CBX, '78 CB750F, '74 CB750

_Sheffjs_

Quote from: John Schmidt on Wed 18, May 2016, 17:41:20
Quote from: _Sheffjs_ on Wed 18, May 2016, 12:34:40
Ordered    :cooldude:
Jerry, hope you didn't pay more than $61.84.... Procaliber.com

Now, listen to your Dutch Uncle.....install a relay as instructed in the link below. It can be installed in the headlight bucket and it removes the heavy current load off the start switch. Makes huge difference in the longevity of that rather important part of the bike. In the link, scroll down to the Start Switch Safeguard section and follow the steps. Sherry should be able to have it done in less than an hour.  :2funny:

Seriously, it's easy, but if you need help just holler.  :cooldude:

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html
ok Dutch Uncle, I fully understand and wireing is one of my strong suits.  

_Sheffjs_

Quote from: desertrefugee on Wed 18, May 2016, 21:52:47
Quote from: Danny McMillin on Wed 18, May 2016, 09:30:03
Replace, Replace, Replace! I danced with mine for 6 years, cleaned, worked fine for weeks or months, and clean again. Left me stranded several times on road, embarrassing when riding in groups. Never knew when I hit the start button, what was going to happen. BBF changed mine out at Inzane last year! Bought the entire switch , but changed out internals. My housing was chromed. Trouble free since, no more worries!!

Properly cleaned, they'll provide another coupla decades of service - unless heavily pitted.  Usually, it's just a good cleaning that's needed..

Also, a faulty starter button should NEVER leave you stranded.   As with any vehicle with a starter relay, it's a pretty simple matter to jump the load terminals to get started.  Embarrassing that you have to pull the side cover, but not as embarrassing as calling for a tow for something so simple.

I have a heavy (6g) u shaped wire just for that, especially until the part comes in.  I was wondering why no one mentioned it before.

hukmut

I have one of those u shaped wires jumping my clutch switch that failed. I always pull in the clutch lever each time I start anyway. :cooldude:



Ride safe...

WintrSol

Quote from: hukmut on Thu 19, May 2016, 09:43:19
I have one of those u shaped wires jumping my clutch switch that failed. I always pull in the clutch lever each time I start anyway. :cooldude:



Ride safe...
While I do the same, it is not needed if the bike is in neutral; only in gear with the side stand up.
98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service

CoachDoc

Quote from: Danny McMillin on Wed 18, May 2016, 09:30:03
Replace, Replace, Replace! I danced with mine for 6 years, cleaned, worked fine for weeks or months, and clean again. Left me stranded several times on road, embarrassing when riding in groups. Never knew when I hit the start button, what was going to happen. BBF changed mine out at Inzane last year! Bought the entire switch , but changed out internals. My housing was chromed. Trouble free since, no more worries!!
Agree 100%. I did the same cleaning mambo with mine for a couple of years, then finally replaced. Should have done it much sooner.
CoachDoc
'97 Valkyrie Standard
'05 Goldwing
'74 CB550K

Daniel Meyer

Cleaned, freed up the springs, and lubed mine...180,000 miles ago...
CUAgain,
Daniel Meyer

98 VALK

Hook  I bought the switch from HAlls Motorsports in Mobile Al. I had some other work done to it and just let them put the switch on also. Good to know about the other vender. I'll use them next time for sure. Thanks for the tip.

_Sheffjs_

The new switch has not come in yet and we took the 1800 out today. But I did start the 1500 this morning and the lights did not come on at all then I turned the key off and back on and I had lights and it started.   Let her run for a while and then left for our ride on the 1800.  Come back and now the key will not turn on anything.  No time to fool now moreover next week when we come back up. Should have the switch by then but not sure if the start button is the issue now.  

zzed28

I had almost precisely the same thing, check all your battery connections, the cable attachment bolts were loose on the battery on mine, how embarrassing.



Quote from: _Sheffjs_ on Sat 21, May 2016, 15:19:40
The new switch has not come in yet and we took the 1800 out today. But I did start the 1500 this morning and the lights did not come on at all then I turned the key off and back on and I had lights and it started.   Let her run for a while and then left for our ride on the 1800.  Come back and now the key will not turn on anything.  No time to fool now moreover next week when we come back up. Should have the switch by then but not sure if the start button is the issue now.   

desertrefugee

Quote from: zzed28 on Sat 21, May 2016, 23:40:52
I had almost precisely the same thing, check all your battery connections, the cable attachment bolts were loose on the battery on mine, how embarrassing.


:2funny: :2funny:

Oh man.  Same here.  Exact same symptom.  Loose battery connections AT the battery.  I wasn't going to confess, but since I'm not the only one.   Check 'em.
'97 Bumble Bee,  '78 GL1000, '79 CBX, '78 CB750F, '74 CB750

_Sheffjs_

Quote from: zzed28 on Sat 21, May 2016, 23:40:52
I had almost precisely the same thing, check all your battery connections, the cable attachment bolts were loose on the battery on mine, how embarrassing.



Quote from: _Sheffjs_ on Sat 21, May 2016, 15:19:40
The new switch has not come in yet and we took the 1800 out today. But I did start the 1500 this morning and the lights did not come on at all then I turned the key off and back on and I had lights and it started.   Let her run for a while and then left for our ride on the 1800.  Come back and now the key will not turn on anything.  No time to fool now moreover next week when we come back up. Should have the switch by then but not sure if the start button is the issue now.   

Thanks for the tip :cooldude:

_Sheffjs_

Quote from: desertrefugee on Sun 22, May 2016, 21:18:25
Quote from: zzed28 on Sat 21, May 2016, 23:40:52
I had almost precisely the same thing, check all your battery connections, the cable attachment bolts were loose on the battery on mine, how embarrassing.


:2funny: :2funny:

Oh man.  Same here.  Exact same symptom.  Loose battery connections AT the battery.  I wasn't going to confess, but since I'm not the only one.   Check 'em.
Thanks for the tip  :cooldude:

pocket aces

Could some explain in detail how to jump the load terminals. This noobie needs some help. Thanks!!

_Sheffjs_

A pair of pliers or I use a 8 gauge wire bent in a U shape I keep handy. Take the right side cover off expose the starter relay and jump the two large terminals. Key is turned on and bike in N, kill button in run.

Sorry not near bike for any pics.