Frustrated Rider

[flash2002]

Ok, this is whats frustrating, I have a 98 Valk with 49000 km that I bought last year. The guy that had the bike didn't drive it much, the tires were dated 2004, I did change the tires. Last winter I took the bike apart to check that all the parts and ( bearings ) were good. I change the stem bearings retorque grease the swing arm and torque. The changes I did was, add 6 inch risers, and install 416 air chocks and did the rear bearing mod. The problem I have is, when I ride and  I  hit small or big bumps or there is a deviation in the street, hard to explain but the bike  swings or leans   left and right not much but enough that I have to hold on the bars and fight a bit to keep it strait. It's very tiring driving like that. This is my second Valk of the same year and the other one drove strait. It's not the first time I work on bikes but this gets me. I might retorque the head bearing again and try it but I have my doubts. I like this bike, it's not my 1800 Wing but fun to drive if I could fix the problem.  Now if you guys have any ideas I would like to hear them. Thanks

[Bighead]

Shock bushings? Also as you said retorque the head bearings and have a look at the swingarm.

[flash2002]

Hi Bighead, the shocks where rebuilt from top to bottom, I did install the oem shocks with new bushings and they did the same. I did retorque the swing but not the head bearing, thats next.

[indybobm]

Did the bike do this when you bought it or after you did the updates?
Are you certain that you put the distance collar between the rear wheel bearings when you the the rear bearing mod?

[Skinhead]

Darkside or MC tire?

[flash2002]

Did the bike do this when you bought it or after you did the updates?
Are you certain that you put the distance collar between the rear wheel bearings when you the the rear bearing mod?

You know, I don't remember if it did, I didn't drive it much it was late fall. You know when you get old you forget.   For the wheel, everything is there and in good shape, no movement no noise all tight.

[flash2002]

Darkside or MC tire?

MC tire, new

[John Schmidt]

What pressure are you running in the tires? Should be in the range of 40/42psi....front/rear. Do you have a way to stand the bike upright such as with a front wheel chock? Do that, then grab the rear end by the sissy bar or something else solid and try pushing/shaking the bike sideways, back and forth, and see if you can create some sway. Another possibility would be the assembly of the front wheel & forks. Did you change the fork oil, and if so....what weight and how much oil did you put in the forks? You haven't told us but I'm assuming you're running motorcycle tires front and rear?!?

There are a number of things that can cause your problems, the above are just a few. Keep us posted on what you find. 

[flash2002]

John, I'm running the tires at 40 psi, I did jack the bike, took off the rear wheel, took off the shocks and tried to shake it up and down side by side. I rechecked the torque & all is good. For the forks,  I installed progressive springs and ATF oil to the amount they said, 5 inch from top, I might take some out because I find the front a little hard.

[John Schmidt]

OK, but did you try shaking it side to side with all that stuff still installed?

[flash2002]

John, yes I did , everything on and off, the bearings where cleaned and greased like new no movement. Maybe I'm just getting to old to ride a beast. LOL 

[John Schmidt]

Maybe I'm just getting to old to ride a beast. LOL 

Sure hope not, I have 14 yrs. on you and still ride every chance I get. If I were able to attend InZane this year I'd be riding up(1000 miles) but wife's health prevents me leaving just now.

Keep looking, you'll find the source. Are you sure the swingarm pins are fully seated on both sides? I've seen a couple times where a person serviced them and although the left side was torqued down right, the right side wasn't seated all the way which has to be done first. Seemed impossible the left could be torqued under those conditions but it did happen. If your steering head is too tight, it will cause the bike to "hunt" and of course if too loose you're riding on borrowed time. Jack the front off the ground and grab the wheel, try lifting it out and up, see if it moves. Also check to see if it moves too stiff when moving the bars.

[flash2002]

The only thing I didn't do after installing the the head bearing and riding a few hundred miles was to retorque the bearing. I know about the scale adjustment but with all the junk on the front, it's hard to get a good measurement. I will retorque to what they say when I get a chance and see if it works. Is it possible that if the front suspension is to stiff, instead of absorbing the bumps it bounces the front out of line, just guessing.

[Valker]

You said you didn't remember if you reinstalled the spacer in the rear wheel between the bearings. Make SURE you did and that you put the correct one in. With the bearing mod, the spacer must be cut to size.

[flash2002]

Valker, what I meant was, I didn't remember if the bike drove that way last year. I always make sure and double check if everything is there and working right.

[Brian]

Just a suggestion here, but have you followed the sequence in the manual for properly tightening the four rear end nuts on the swingarm. Following this will also help to keep the splines from uneven wear. There is also a proper sequence for the front axle. Also don't forget to retighten the top triple tree clamps that you loosened to remove the fork caps. I almost forget these when I rebuilt my 97 forks.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[flash2002]

Hey Brian, it was all done by the book, that's what I don't get, why it does that. Like I said, the only thing I didn't do was retorque the head bearing after riding , that I might do today.

[Marinakorp]

How is the valve stem on the rear tire.

I had one that was cracked at the base, and when I leaned hard...it would flex and a bit of air would escape...and feel like it dipped a bit.

[flash2002]

The valves are all new, I got the bolted ones if that's what you call them.

[Chrisj CMA]

You said you didn't remember if you reinstalled the spacer in the rear wheel between the bearings. Make SURE you did and that you put the correct one in. With the bearing mod, the spacer must be cut to size.

Valker, it's the last spacer the one that looks like. A hat that gets shortened, not the interior spacer between the bearings, that one is unchanged even After the bearing mod

[Valker]

You said you didn't remember if you reinstalled the spacer in the rear wheel between the bearings. Make SURE you did and that you put the correct one in. With the bearing mod, the spacer must be cut to size.

Valker, it's the last spacer the one that looks like. A hat that gets shortened, not the interior spacer between the bearings, that one is unchanged even After the bearing mod

I was speaking of the one inside the wheel which separates the two bearings and looks like a heavy duty straw!

[flash2002]

Well, I didn't do what I said I was going to do ( torque the head bearing ) to nice of a day to work on the bike. I went for a good ride 200+ miles today and the bike ran well, it seems the problem is almost gone so I think when I retorque the head it might solve some of the problems . I think  I will remove a bit of the fork oil, it will smooth out the harsh front end. I will let you guys know how it goes in a few days, there calling for rain the next few days. Thanks guys for some of the advice, always a great site. 

[Chrisj CMA]

You said you didn't remember if you reinstalled the spacer in the rear wheel between the bearings. Make SURE you did and that you put the correct one in. With the bearing mod, the spacer must be cut to size.

Valker, it's the last spacer the one that looks like. A hat that gets shortened, not the interior spacer between the bearings, that one is unchanged even After the bearing mod

I was speaking of the one inside the wheel which separates the two bearings and looks like a heavy duty straw!

I realize that is what you were talking about.  That heavy duty straw never gets modified when one does the bearing mod.

[big poppa pump]

If you just replaced the stem bearings, they need to be re-torqued only after 10k miles. The only reason you would need to re-torque them again now is if did not follow the proper procedure of torquing them when you installed it. I just replaced the stem bearings on both my bikes, the black one has about 7k on the new bearings and the yellow one has about 2k on the new bearings and I experience any of your symptoms.

[flash2002]

If you just replaced the stem bearings, they need to be re-torqued only after 10k miles. The only reason you would need to re-torque them again now is if did not follow the proper procedure of torquing them when you installed it. I just replaced the stem bearings on both my bikes, the black one has about 7k on the new bearings and the yellow one has about 2k on the new bearings and I experience any of your symptoms.

I understand what your saying, but just to be sure I like to check them. I'm crazy like that, I like things to be right on. 

[Brian]

If you just replaced the stem bearings, they need to be re-torqued only after 10k miles. The only reason you would need to re-torque them again now is if did not follow the proper procedure of torquing them when you installed it. I just replaced the stem bearings on both my bikes, the black one has about 7k on the new bearings and the yellow one has about 2k on the new bearings and I experience any of your symptoms.

I understand what your saying, but just to be sure I like to check them. I'm crazy like that, I like things to be right on. 

Me too Flash. Thanks for keeping us updated. By the book is the only way for me as well.

[flash2002]

Ok, so I did all kinds of work and checks on the bike and, I still have the same problem. It sort of drives like there was 10 LBs  of air in the tires and the wheels were loose. Is it possible that the new  Bridgestone  OEM cruiser tires I bought  are not made for this bike.  It's just that every time I hit a bump or the road is uneven the bike goes from one side to the other.  I'm on the border line of selling the bike, it's tiring to drive like this, always have to control the bike to keep it strait. If you guys have any other  ideas beside the obvious, let me know.

[indybobm]

You said you didn't remember if you reinstalled the spacer in the rear wheel between the bearings. Make SURE you did and that you put the correct one in. With the bearing mod, the spacer must be cut to size.

Valker, I think you meant to say to check the internal distance collar and then also check to see if the spacer between the wheel bearing and the rear caliper mount is installed. It is that spacer that gets machined, not the internal distance collar between the bearings. Sounded like you said it wrong.

Edit, Sorry i did not mean to gang up on you. I failed to read to the end of the post.

[flash2002]

I forgot to mention that, when I hit bumps small or big, the front end bounces a bit, yet I have progressive springs and 20w fork oil at the right amount.  It's almost like the suspension cant handle the bumps and the weight of the bike. Weird

[Valker]

You said you didn't remember if you reinstalled the spacer in the rear wheel between the bearings. Make SURE you did and that you put the correct one in. With the bearing mod, the spacer must be cut to size.

Valker, I think you meant to say to check the internal distance collar and then also check to see if the spacer between the wheel bearing and the rear caliper mount is installed. It is that spacer that gets machined, not the internal distance collar between the bearings. Sounded like you said it wrong.

Edit, Sorry i did not mean to gang up on you. I failed to read to the end of the post.

It is my understanding that the double row bearing mod does require some machining of the wheel to bring the bearing in to where it is supposed to be flush with the outside of the wheel. This would require an equivalent shortening of the internal sleeve.

[flash2002]

No, no machining of the wheel, just the outside spacer.

[Skinhead]

This bike wasn't wrecked before you bought it by any chance, was it?

[flash2002]

No, the bike is in great shape, it had 42,000 KLM when I bought it. I don't get it, this is my second Valk I bought. The first one ran great and drove strait, this one is I can't figure out the problem. I worked on plenty of bikes and I solved problems if they have one but this one 

[Hook#3287]

If I were in your position, I'd disassemble everything and re check it all.  PITA, for sure, but it's got to be something that is out of spec or assembled incorrectly.

Can't speak to the tires, never used Bridgestones.

Sounds like you've checked everything already, but something has been missed.  These bikes run straight and true.

You modified the rear wheel and front suspension, I'd start with them.  Rear shocks, swing arm and neck bearings next and that about covers it.

[big poppa pump]

Might sound irrelevant, but are your handlebar risers torqued to spec?

[flash2002]

Might sound irrelevant, but are your handlebar risers torqued to spec?

I thought about that but said to my self, can't be. They are tight, I would be surprised if that would cause the problem.  I will install the OEm risers back on the bike and see what it does, it's the only thing I didn't do.

[big poppa pump]

Might sound irrelevant, but are your handlebar risers torqued to spec?

I thought about that but said to my self, can't be. They are tight, I would be surprised if that would cause the problem.  I will install the OEm risers back on the bike and see what it does, it's the only thing I didn't do.

Trust me when I say, there's a difference between tight and torqued correctly. It took me forever to track down the front wobble I had on my bike when I installed some Harley Deuce risers.

[Hook#3287]

Might sound irrelevant, but are your handlebar risers torqued to spec?

Good suggestion

[big poppa pump]

If I am not mistaken the correct torque for the risers should be around 45 ft/lbs.

[Michvalk]

You might take a minuet to check if the forks are in alignment