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Author Topic: I bought a motorcycle trailer today.  (Read 1470 times)
DarkSideR
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« on: June 11, 2016, 10:31:07 PM »

While wrenching on my truck I notice my neighbor come home with a motorcycle trailer. Since I have been looking and looking for a trailer I went over to ask him where he got it at. He told me he got it at a yard sale. But he said that he wasn't going to keep it and had already listed it on craigslist. I asked and he let me hook it up to my truck, load the valk, and test it. The Valk loaded and chalked nicely. The trailer is low and is easy to load and unload the valk. I will have to get a lower hitch to help level the trailer a bit. So I bought it.

I travel for work, and lug big, heavy cases of my equipment. Now I can take the Valk along and enjoy riding it instead of being stuck in a cage. Happy day.

Have any advice for someone new to trailering,
« Last Edit: June 12, 2016, 06:27:32 AM by DarkSider » Logged

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csj
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« Reply #1 on: June 12, 2016, 03:45:46 AM »

Be kinda cool to see a pic please. Wanna get one for our bikes.
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Jopson
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Egan SD


« Reply #2 on: June 12, 2016, 04:38:58 AM »


Advice..
Learn to reverse it before you find yourself stuck somewhere!
Remember it's behind you when you turn in and out of junctions, turn wide!
Be prepared to haul furniture/refrigerators for everybody you've ever met!!
Good luck! cooldude
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RDKLL
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« Reply #3 on: June 12, 2016, 05:03:22 AM »

Congrats on the acquisition! Love it when something falls into your lap...except hot coffee
I second that previous post....Pictures, or it didnt happen!
 
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..
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #4 on: June 12, 2016, 05:31:26 AM »

Caution approaching/leaving gas pumps!

If more than one lane making a left turn use the right lane and make a "square" turn. Then the trailer wheels will not cut into the lane next to you.

Practice, practice, practice reversing. Some find it comes naturally and others not so much.
« Last Edit: June 12, 2016, 05:33:52 AM by Britman » Logged
signart
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Crossville, Tennessee


« Reply #5 on: June 12, 2016, 06:31:55 AM »

Do wheel bearing maintenance, keep check on tire pressures, find a spare if you don't have one.
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Gavin_Sons
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« Reply #6 on: June 12, 2016, 06:34:35 AM »

Caution approaching/leaving gas pumps!

If more than one lane making a left turn use the right lane and make a "square" turn. Then the trailer wheels will not cut into the lane next to you.

Practice, practice, practice reversing. Some find it comes naturally and others not so much.

I have been pulling a trailer for several years. Hardest part I find is remembering it is back there.  Cool
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DarkSideR
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« Reply #7 on: June 12, 2016, 07:40:49 AM »

Today I plan on getting everything properly setup and working. I will get some pictures up after that.

I tow a 24' flatbed with my F350 and have trailering down. I will say it is quite different when your beloved motorcycle is on the trailer. I need to research tie down points as to not damage anything on the bike. Everywhere I wanted to attach a tie down had wiring in the way or something would rub, or could break.
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« Reply #8 on: June 12, 2016, 08:06:15 AM »

Today I plan on getting everything properly setup and working. I will get some pictures up after that.

I tow a 24' flatbed with my F350 and have trailering down. I will say it is quite different when your beloved motorcycle is on the trailer. I need to research tie down points as to not damage anything on the bike. Everywhere I wanted to attach a tie down had wiring in the way or something would rub, or could break.

I hope I'm correct in saying use the low point on the engine guards and around the low point on the rear shocks. A front wheel chock is invaluable.
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DarkSideR
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« Reply #9 on: June 12, 2016, 08:25:50 AM »

Today I plan on getting everything properly setup and working. I will get some pictures up after that.

I tow a 24' flatbed with my F350 and have trailering down. I will say it is quite different when your beloved motorcycle is on the trailer. I need to research tie down points as to not damage anything on the bike. Everywhere I wanted to attach a tie down had wiring in the way or something would rub, or could break.

I hope I'm correct in saying use the low point on the engine guards and around the low point on the rear shocks. A front wheel chock is invaluable.

The trailer has a nice front wheel chalk built in. Thank you for the advice of staying low for tie down points, that will help.
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John Schmidt
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« Reply #10 on: June 12, 2016, 09:19:47 AM »

What kind is it....the trailer?
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DarkSideR
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« Reply #11 on: June 12, 2016, 09:20:56 AM »

What kind is it....the trailer?

Road Runner.
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Valk_Ridin_Soldier
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Yorktown, VA


« Reply #12 on: June 12, 2016, 09:32:36 AM »

I recently went trailer shopping, more for adapting to my wife's recent mobility issues than as a motorcycle trailer...My Valk was on a trailer twice in 170K miles...once because of a wheel bearing, once when it got totaled. 

But, I did buy a 6'x10' aluminum trailer...aluminum is much lighter, stiffer, and when you have SUVs vs. Pickups, you devote more weight to what you are towing rather than the trailer itself.  Cost a bit more, but well worth it. 
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cookiedough
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« Reply #13 on: June 12, 2016, 10:06:17 AM »

Seeing as you have towed a 24' trailer with big truck,  you should be fine.

I just bought last fall a 23' enclosed trailer and never towed something that big/heavy loaded up.  Sure sucks in crosswinds doing 70 mph sort of whips my 1/2 ton truck around just a tad affecting steering with no stabilizer jacks but is only 4500lbs. loaded up, on the verge of needing stabilizer jacks, etc.

When I had to get gas at a gas station,  I sure picked the wrong one since pulling out,  even though I took it as wide as possible with oncoming cars coming at me in the other lane,  on a near 90 degree right turn,  my passenger side (right side) rear wheel had to POP the curb at low speeds.  I didn't like that since I just spent 6.5K on it same day, but no damage was done luckily to the fender with the curb just low enough to not bottom out anything.  Also on way home from picking it up first time,  I bottomed out and scraped very lightly the rear end of the trailer pulling out from a somewhat steep angled parking lot even though I had, like you have to have, the front and rear of the trialer fairly level sometimes even having to buy a taller or lower receiver bar or an adjustable one to make level trailer.  I prefer to have MORE weight on the tongue tad bit lower but the 2500lb. weight of the trailer squats my 1/2 ton truck down another 1 inch or so when another 1-2000 lbs. is in it.  Pulling it unloaded at 2500lbs. barely notice it is there, but at 4500lbs. I surely notice it back there for sure.    The mfgs. claim 1/2 ton trucks can pull up to 10000lbs, but NOT for me for sure would get a 3/4 ton truck if pulling much anything over 7-8000lbs. for sure. 

As far as tying down a big cycle,  some say to let the suspension of the cycle free floating do the work while others say strap the suspension tight not letting the cycle suspension bounce up and down.   What is everyone's thoughts on this??  I have mixed feelings going both ways to be honest.  I have always tied my ATV's down past 7+ years 1 strap in front, 1 in back compressing the ATV's suspension not bouncing  the ATV suspension up and down on the trailer, but not so sure a cycle that way is best???  

Pretty sure either one will work fine as long as do it right, just not sure which way is better?
« Last Edit: June 12, 2016, 10:13:56 AM by cookiedough » Logged
Hook#3287
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Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #14 on: June 12, 2016, 11:49:18 AM »

I just got home from a week in the Adirondacks and we pulled two Valks in an enclosed bike trailer.

The trailer has two wheel chocks and multiple tie down positions.

We used soft straps over the bottom triple tree and heavy ratchet straps pulled almost to the bottom of the forks travel.  Strapped the backs down enough so they couldn't move, one on the left bike, one on the right bike, and one to both bikes in the middle.

By using the bottom triple tree, nothing is in the way of the straps, no wires or blinkers to get pinched or snapped.

Worked great w/o any issues.

These tie downs are excellent.

https://www.amazon.com/Lock-Load-BK200-Orange-Tie-Down/dp/B00GIER7GM/ref=sr_1_125?ie=UTF8&qid=1465757639&sr=8-125&keywords=motorcycle+tie-down+straps
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..
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #15 on: June 12, 2016, 01:07:02 PM »

http://movinginsider.com/2014/05/03/tie-down-a-motorcycle/


Nearly forgot DO NOT TRAILER WITH BIKE ON KICK STAND!
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Jersey mike
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Brick,NJ


« Reply #16 on: June 12, 2016, 01:36:19 PM »

everyone I know that tows a trailer, for either boats, utility, work or motorcycles use Bearing Buddy's, inexpensive, dependable and some peace of mind. most trailer tires are pretty small and turn a lot of RPM's.

http://www.bearingbuddy.com/

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cookiedough
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southern WI


« Reply #17 on: June 12, 2016, 06:09:59 PM »

http://movinginsider.com/2014/05/03/tie-down-a-motorcycle/


Nearly forgot DO NOT TRAILER WITH BIKE ON KICK STAND!


Yep,  that is what I was thinking as well,  good read.

thanks,

 Wink cooldude
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DarkSideR
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« Reply #18 on: June 12, 2016, 06:30:17 PM »

Picture time. I got a new receiver installed and needed a 4" offset to get the trailer level, but here she is. The Valk takes up just about the entire length of the trailer.
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« Reply #19 on: June 12, 2016, 06:37:49 PM »

Picture time. I got a new receiver installed and needed a 4" offset to get the trailer level, but here she is. The Valk takes up just about the entire length of the trailer.


A tad smaller than I was imagining.
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DarkSideR
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« Reply #20 on: June 12, 2016, 08:02:57 PM »

It's perfect for me. I wanted a trailer that I could move around by hand, store easily on my side yard next to my truck. It's low so loading and unloading the valk is a 1 person job.

I am going to put in new wheel bearings, and put on new rubber, and it will be road worthy.
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #21 on: June 13, 2016, 04:35:00 AM »

Looks like it will do the job.  Where do you store the ramps when the bike is on the trailer?
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DarkSideR
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« Reply #22 on: June 13, 2016, 05:32:55 AM »

Looks like it will do the job.  Where do you store the ramps when the bike is on the trailer?

It is 1 ramp that folds in half, and slides up next to the bike. The ramp has chains & hooks to secure the ramp when loading/unloading the bike, and while traveling.
« Last Edit: June 13, 2016, 05:45:27 AM by DarkSider » Logged

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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #23 on: June 13, 2016, 08:52:49 AM »

Picture time. I got a new receiver installed and needed a 4" offset to get the trailer level, but here she is. The Valk takes up just about the entire length of the trailer.



Its hard to tell by this picture, but Im wondering what kind of support is directly under the Valkyrie wheels when its loaded.  If not solid the bouncing on the road will not be good for that mesh floor
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DarkSideR
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« Reply #24 on: June 13, 2016, 08:59:52 AM »

Picture time. I got a new receiver installed and needed a 4" offset to get the trailer level, but here she is. The Valk takes up just about the entire length of the trailer.



Its hard to tell by this picture, but Im wondering what kind of support is directly under the Valkyrie wheels when its loaded.  If not solid the bouncing on the road will not be good for that mesh floor


The rear wheel sits on part of the angle iron part of the frame.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #25 on: June 13, 2016, 09:04:05 AM »

Picture time. I got a new receiver installed and needed a 4" offset to get the trailer level, but here she is. The Valk takes up just about the entire length of the trailer.



Its hard to tell by this picture, but Im wondering what kind of support is directly under the Valkyrie wheels when its loaded.  If not solid the bouncing on the road will not be good for that mesh floor


The rear wheel sits on part of the angle iron part of the frame.


I would add a strip of steel or diamond aluminum about 8" wide straight up through the center of the trailer if you plan on trailering a 800# motorcycle more than a few blocks.....that's just me.
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DarkSideR
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« Reply #26 on: June 13, 2016, 09:27:24 AM »

everyone I know that tows a trailer, for either boats, utility, work or motorcycles use Bearing Buddy's, inexpensive, dependable and some peace of mind. most trailer tires are pretty small and turn a lot of RPM's.

http://www.bearingbuddy.com/




I went to pull the bearings to see if the bearings and chases are okay to find it already has the BearingBuddy's installed.  cooldude
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Jersey mike
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« Reply #27 on: June 13, 2016, 05:10:26 PM »

do you have an Ford OEM trailer electric wiring harness? if so did the new trailer link up and work properly?

I have an OEM hook up on my '03 Ford van and the couple times I towed a trailer I had an issue with the lights not functioning correctly. since I've used it so seldom and for very short trips I've never looked to deep into it, but I have the round 7? pin and used an 4? pin adaptor so I don't really know if it's a wiring issue or the adaptor not working right.
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DarkSideR
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« Reply #28 on: June 13, 2016, 05:33:32 PM »

do you have an Ford OEM trailer electric wiring harness? if so did the new trailer link up and work properly?

I have an OEM hook up on my '03 Ford van and the couple times I towed a trailer I had an issue with the lights not functioning correctly. since I've used it so seldom and for very short trips I've never looked to deep into it, but I have the round 7? pin and used an 4? pin adaptor so I don't really know if it's a wiring issue or the adaptor not working right.

I couldn't tell you if I'm using factory wiring or not. The truck is 25 years old. My grandfather was the original owner, my uncle was the 2nd owner, and I'm the 3rd owner. My grandfather passed away and my uncle doesn't wrench so there's no way I could figure that out.  I can tell you that when I started hauling the 24' flat bed , I had a trailer company go over everything and they installed a new wiring socket, but that's all I know.

I had the neighbor help me check the lights and all was well.
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DarkSideR
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« Reply #29 on: June 13, 2016, 06:36:52 PM »

The trailer is all ready to go.  It sits pretty level and towed great at 65mph.
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cookiedough
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southern WI


« Reply #30 on: June 13, 2016, 06:44:05 PM »

Yah, some more support of some kind, even a 2x8 long 8 foot board to help support the weight of the cycle might be a safety measure vs. wire mesh over hard bumps in the road.

I know you haven't trailered with this light of a trailer much, but am wondering it might wheel hop some and bounce around too much just a tad even with an 800lb. bike on it?

I own a triton atv88 2-place light 365lb. aluminum ATV trailer and with 2 ATV's weighing 700lbs. each loaded down to the max it doesn't bounce around nearly as much as a ONLY 1 ATV bouncing around much more, but is an ATV suspension not the Valks. 

I'd be checking your straps a lot more than usually as well since my triton ATV88 trailer due to bouncing around on rougher roads (even normal hwy. rough roads)  has loosened my straps several times even in 20-50 mile tows and I crank them down pretty darn tight with good quality rachet straps as well. 
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #31 on: June 13, 2016, 06:46:43 PM »

That looks like a lot of stress on your pillion backrest.
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #32 on: June 13, 2016, 06:48:15 PM »

Looks good, but I'd consider either stronger straps or doubling them up.  Those are the size straps I used when my buddies Valk fell into mine 10+ years ago.  Broke my mirror and did some misc scrapes. We stopped for dinner and good thing we didn't check the bikes till after eating, otherwise we wouldn't have.

When I trailered 6 bikes to Myrtle Beach one year, I told everyone "If you've got a ten dollar bike, buy ten dollar straps".  Amazingly, some did, to which I added extras.

I can't speak to the roads out west, but in the east, those straps would not do it.

P.S. It wasn't the strap, but the hook that let go.  Broke in half. Chinese POS
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #33 on: June 13, 2016, 06:59:11 PM »

Are those forward straps hooked to a tie down point or just the corner of the frame?
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DarkSideR
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« Reply #34 on: June 13, 2016, 07:07:29 PM »

I agree I need more and bigger straps. I just used ones I had to run it up the hwy and back. I only did 4 miles, and in that time one strap did loosen up a bit.

The trailer has 4 tie down points, one at each corner. My Pops already suggested adding more. He is a welder and will help next time I'm up at his place.

The front wheel sits in the chalk, and the back wheel sits on part of the frame, so I'm not worried about adding more support.

Thanks for the pointers, to all are the best.
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cookiedough
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« Reply #35 on: June 13, 2016, 07:32:38 PM »

I hope you don't think we are cutting down that smaller open trailer, am sure it will work fine for your needs but have to be double or triple as careful since is so lightweight overall as far as strength of floor, lightweight tendency to bounce around the bike more so, and get some very good straps, even maybe having to do 8 straps vs. only the normal 4 straps. 

Those non marring short safety straps would be good as well to use since am sure some movement will be more likely to occur on that size of a trailer. 

My neighbor use to have a 6'x10' all metal heavy duty trailer with 2x8's floorboards and although somewhat wide being 8' with car tire wheels on the outside and fairly heavy for such a smaller trailer, NO bouncing around was done when I pulled my one ATV in it vs. my aluminum triton atv88 trailer weighing 2/3rd's or so lighter.   I think he paid about 600 used for it was in good shape otherwise. 
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Firefighter
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« Reply #36 on: June 13, 2016, 08:13:18 PM »

If you are used to a 24 foot trailer, this new one will be more interesting to back up, especially with an F-350!
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DarkSideR
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« Reply #37 on: June 13, 2016, 09:02:00 PM »

I get it! Just leaving my neighborhood the trailer bounced all over, pitching and bouncing the valk. If I can strap it, it will be strapped.

I practiced backing up today. I got it down after numerous attempts. The trailer is so small I am having a hard time seeing it. Next will be fiberglass poles with a tennis ball or flag at the top so I can see what the trailer is doing.

My lightbar just peeks up over the tailgate (closed off course). When the bike is level the lightbar is parallel with the tailgate. This will be my bearing to make sure the bike hasn't shifted. Today when one of the straps let loose I could see the lightbar was at an angle to the tailgate, so I stopped and looked things over. I readjusted the strap and leveled the lightbar again.
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cookiedough
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southern WI


« Reply #38 on: June 14, 2016, 10:47:13 AM »

be very careful since obviously your current strap setup is not holding very well.

May I suggest running, if safe, down the road with your tailgate down all the way to see what is going on back there easier with your straps, etc.

If not that,  then 110% for sure while backing up,  as I do EVERY single time with my smaller triton ATV88 trailer, put the tailgate down ALL the time when backing up in reverse since is so much easier to see how the trailer is moving.  With tailgate up with such a small trailer,  is very hard to guess since cannot see much at all besides the cycle or ATV on the trailer is all.  I know it sounds common sense, but please do it EVERY single time or you will regret it sooner or later.  Is not that hard to stop, put truck in park, get out and open tailgate before going into reverse. 
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DarkSideR
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« Reply #39 on: June 14, 2016, 10:53:06 AM »

be very careful since obviously your current strap setup is not holding very well.

May I suggest running, if safe, down the road with your tailgate down all the way to see what is going on back there easier with your straps, etc.

If not that,  then 110% for sure while backing up,  as I do EVERY single time with my smaller triton ATV88 trailer, put the tailgate down ALL the time when backing up in reverse since is so much easier to see how the trailer is moving.  With tailgate up with such a small trailer,  is very hard to guess since cannot see much at all besides the cycle or ATV on the trailer is all.  I know it sounds common sense, but please do it EVERY single time or you will regret it sooner or later.  Is not that hard to stop, put truck in park, get out and open tailgate before going into reverse. 

Now that you've said that I remember I have a notched insert I can put in place of the tailgate that I can see through. When trailer'ing I am just going to use that. Thank you!
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