Replacement handlebarrs

[WintrSol]

Rode the Dragon and realized the standard bars on my Tourer aren't comfortable on that kind of road; I'm used to flatter grips from years on my other bikes. Is there a good source for bars, with adequate pull-back in the risers for my limited reach? I've already added risers with more reach, just to sit upright with the standard bars.

TIA,
Rick

[..]

Rode the Dragon and realized the standard bars on my Tourer aren't comfortable on that kind of road; I'm used to flatter grips from years on my other bikes. Is there a good source for bars, with adequate pull-back in the risers for my limited reach? I've already added risers with more reach, just to sit upright with the standard bars.

TIA,
Rick

Have you tried loosening the handlebar clamp and moving the bars a little to see if that makes for a more secure ride?

[Jess from VA]

It's very difficult to find a set of bars, or more likely a bar and riser combination, that will do what you want without changing out cables, and maybe wiring (and you can't really know until you bolt them up).  I spent a lot of time measuring, calculating and estimating, and looking for bars that might do the job, and still have enough rise and pullback (I would not go to a bar that required me to lean down and forward like sport bikes, a lot of bars will do that).  A number of fairly flat bars would require really long risers, but little pullback.  Add to this the fact that once purchased, and installed, they cannot be returned if they don't work out for you.  To get a flat grip, I really hoped to find a set of Milwaukee Twins or Fat Chubby drag bars with integral/welded risers (spaced at 100mm, not 3.5"), but none had the rise and pullback I needed.  So I gave up.

Also, remember Harley and Kawi use riser bolts at the tree spaced 3.5", Honda and the rest use risers spaced 100mm (apx 4").  And conversion riser bolts from SAE to metric are available.

I have fiddled with the bar angle in the risers (taller risers on both bikes).  I get (wrist) relief by riding one handed, and using my throttle lock.

Here are the valk std/tourer bar OE measurements (IS are the same, but a quarter inch shorter on each end) (OE risers are 3 1/8")

   Year          Diameter   Height  Width   Pullback   Center    Clamp Area    Factory #
   1997 - 2003    1"        6"    33"      14"           9"        3" x 5"       53100-MZ0-000

It's the 14" of pullback that really makes trying to get a flat (or nearly flat) bar to work.  And the bars have 6" of rise, plus 3 1/8" risers, equals 9+ inches of rise.

This site is the best I could ever find for looking, shopping and guestimating.

http://www.sideroadcycles.com/index.html

[WintrSol]

Thanks for the detailed response, Jess. Guess I have some more research to do, if I want bars that aim more to the side, less to the rear. It's just a bit of an awkward wrist position when pulling these hard corners.

Rick

[Jess from VA]

Welcome.  I spent a good deal of time looking into it because I also wanted a flat(er) grip, both for better control and to relieve wrist discomfort.

I also considered mini apes and Z-bars.

I kept coming back to the idea of buying stuff (some of these are pretty expensive), bolting it on (which is really the only way to know if you will like it), and not being able to return it if I didn't.  And if I did like it, then having to futz with longer cables/wiring.

Wild Chubby drag bars for metric with the proper 100MM (4") riser mount spacing, and 4" end rise, 30.5" wide, with 14.5" pullback, 8.5" center.  4" rise was way too short.  A couple guys have used these (or something like them).


Miniapes (in 8 inch (plus add the riser), but 10 or 12 would be too high)


Zbars

[BF]

I rotated my bars up.  Love them now.

[Scottrtho]

After 6 weeks searching and returning four different bars that didn't work out for one reason or another ( i.e. chubbies don't leave enough bar at  inch diameter to mount all the controls.grip and master cylinder clamp...you need 8.5 inches, and the best chubbies offer 7.625 inches) I bought these and just love the geometry... plenty of pullback and a more natural wrist angle. Stock cables retained after switching to aftermarket  inch riser for additional $50.

http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/wide-sweeper-2-inch-tall-handlebars-1-inch-diameter-black--harley-davidson-flhr-fltr-models-w-etc-08-13/part/KW-300810?utm_source=adwordsfroogle&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=adwordsfroogle&utm_content=83913&gclid=CIbEuZzDs80CFYlcfgodwFcLQw

[Jess from VA]

Those are essentially mini apes.

Any pictures of them mounted?

[WintrSol]

While I plan do look into new bars, I figured out part of my control problem was too little air in the rear shock. While find around home, I needed to raise the rear some to get the steering geometry better - less rake, basically. Better wrist position should improve it even more.

BTW, did you find a way to mount the cable ties, or just let the lines flop around?