Grrrrr electrical! Bike dead. Battery dead

[..]

Chromebattery.com sent me a return number immediately.

Also had a reduced rate USPS shipping label I bought for $8.

So customer service is pretty good. 

[Itinifni]

Britman,

An inexpensive Multi-meter could get you to the source of this problem and many that may come down the line. For about $20 and the same amount of time you just spent posting and responding in this string you can learn how to do basic electrical tests. It's really that easy!

I recently posted a reply to a similar question in this thread http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,89376.msg880413.html#msg880413
(I have not idea if my link will work, I'm skilled at diagnosis of electrical issues but not forums).

After the first step I suggested in that thread you would have found your problem if it's a battery issue. I've only been on this forum a short time but I can see there's a wealth of knowledge and knowledgeable folks here but we need good information to assist.

I don't mean to come across as condescending, just offering up general advice. Pick up a meter and send me a PM, I'd be happy to get you started on some basic diag skills.

Matt

[..]

Britman,

An inexpensive Multi-meter could get you to the source of this problem and many that may come down the line. For about $20 and the same amount of time you just spent posting and responding in this string you can learn how to do basic electrical tests. It's really that easy!

I recently posted a reply to a similar question in this thread http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,89376.msg880413.html#msg880413
(I have not idea if my link will work, I'm skilled at diagnosis of electrical issues but not forums).

After the first step I suggested in that thread you would have found your problem if it's a battery issue. I've only been on this forum a short time but I can see there's a wealth of knowledge and knowledgeable folks here but we need good information to assist.

I don't mean to come across as condescending, just offering up general advice. Pick up a meter and send me a PM, I'd be happy to get you started on some basic diag skills.

Matt

Thanks Matt. I do need to replace the meter lost due to my house fire.

[..]

New battery from the vendor installed and bike cranked up straight away.

Must get a multi meter. 

[..]

Bike has 41,000 miles.

[Chrisj CMA]

New battery from the vendor installed and bike cranked up straight away.

Must get a multi meter. 

That's why you jump it to a non running car when the battery is suspect so you don't have to have two pages of drama..........is the alternator putting out 14V or is the new battery going to die soon?

[..]

New battery from the vendor installed and bike cranked up straight away.

Must get a multi meter. 

That's why you jump it to a non running car when the battery is suspect so you don't have to have two pages of drama..........is the alternator putting out 14V or is the new battery going to die soon?

But but but can't I have just a leetle drama?

Once I get a multi meter I'll check it.

I did this thread so as to help future seekers.

[Chrisj CMA]

I did this thread so as to help future seekers.

Good thing I just finished my coffee or it would have been coming out my nose!  I hate it when that happens 

[Gryphon Rider]

Until you get your multimeter, to test the alternator, temporarily set your idle speed low, 700-800 RPM, which will have the headlight using only battery power at 12-12.9 volts.  Then see if the headlight gets brighter when you rev it up to 1500 or 2000.  If it does, your alternator is putting out power at a higher voltage, typically around 14.3 volts; if not, you have a charging system issue (which could be as simple as a bad connection).

[..]

Until you get your multimeter, to test the alternator, temporarily set your idle speed low, 700-800 RPM, which will have the headlight using only battery power at 12-12.9 volts.  Then see if the headlight gets brighter when you rev it up to 1500 or 2000.  If it does, your alternator is putting out power at a higher voltage, typically around 14.3 volts; if not, you have a charging system issue (which could be as simple as a bad connection).

Thanks.

[..]

I have a multi meter.

Standing by for instructions on how to check alternator. Thanks.

[Gryphon Rider]

I have a multi meter.

Standing by for instructions on how to check alternator. Thanks.

This is done with the seat off, the battery cover off, and the battery terminal covers peeled back enough so your voltmeter leads can easily touch the terminals.  Put your voltmeter in the DCV () 20 range*.  Black lead in the COM hole of the meter, red lead in the V hole.

When measuring voltage, the other end of the red lead should be held firmly against the positive battery terminal, in such a way that it is not allowed to touch any other part of the bike (i.e. the frame beside the terminal), and the black lead held firmly against the negative battery terminal.  You should get the following readings:

New, fully charged battery with no load (key off): 12.9-13.2V
Alternator working at 1500RPM engine speed: 13.8-14.3V

The service manual specifies that with a fully charged battery, start the engine and warm it up, turn it off and measure the battery voltage, then start the engine and hold it at 5000 RPM, put the headlight on high beam, then measure voltage.  It should be greater than battery voltage and less than 15.5V.

*If you have a more expensive, fancy multimeter, it might have an auto-ranging feature, so you won't have the option of selecting the 20V range, but only need to select DCV ().

[..]

I have a multi meter.

Standing by for instructions on how to check alternator. Thanks.

This is done with the seat off, the battery cover off, and the battery terminal covers peeled back enough so your voltmeter leads can easily touch the terminals.  Put your voltmeter in the DCV () 20 range*.  Black lead in the COM hole of the meter, red lead in the V hole.

When measuring voltage, the other end of the red lead should be held firmly against the positive battery terminal, in such a way that it is not allowed to touch any other part of the bike (i.e. the frame beside the terminal), and the black lead held firmly against the negative battery terminal.  You should get the following readings:

New, fully charged battery with no load (key off): 12.9-13.2V
Alternator working at 1500RPM engine speed: 13.8-14.3V

The service manual specifies that with a fully charged battery, start the engine and warm it up, turn it off and measure the battery voltage, then start the engine and hold it at 5000 RPM, put the headlight on high beam, then measure voltage.  It should be greater than battery voltage and less than 15.5V.

*If you have a more expensive, fancy multimeter, it might have an auto-ranging feature, so you won't have the option of selecting the 20V range, but only need to select DCV ().

Key off 14.5

Engine running 14.2

3000 rpm 14.3 with main beam and 2 front spots

[Gryphon Rider]

Key off 14.5

Engine running 14.2

3000 rpm 14.3 with main beam and 2 front spots

The key off 14.5 doesn't sound right, but the other numbers do.  Typo?  If not, let the bike sit for a couple of hours, then measure voltage with the key off.  You might be reading what is known as the "surface charge".

[..]

Key off 14.5

Engine running 14.2

3000 rpm 14.3 with main beam and 2 front spots

The key off 14.5 doesn't sound right, but the other numbers do.  Typo?  If not, let the bike sit for a couple of hours, then measure voltage with the key off.  You might be reading what is known as the "surface charge".

OK Will do. Thanks.

I couldn't bring myself to rev it up to 5,000 rpm 

[Chrisj CMA]

I have a multi meter.

Standing by for instructions on how to check alternator. Thanks.

This is done with the seat off, the battery cover off, and the battery terminal covers peeled back enough so your voltmeter leads can easily touch the terminals.  Put your voltmeter in the DCV () 20 range*.  Black lead in the COM hole of the meter, red lead in the V hole.

When measuring voltage, the other end of the red lead should be held firmly against the positive battery terminal, in such a way that it is not allowed to touch any other part of the bike (i.e. the frame beside the terminal), and the black lead held firmly against the negative battery terminal.  You should get the following readings:

New, fully charged battery with no load (key off): 12.9-13.2V
Alternator working at 1500RPM engine speed: 13.8-14.3V

The service manual specifies that with a fully charged battery, start the engine and warm it up, turn it off and measure the battery voltage, then start the engine and hold it at 5000 RPM, put the headlight on high beam, then measure voltage.  It should be greater than battery voltage and less than 15.5V.

*If you have a more expensive, fancy multimeter, it might have an auto-ranging feature, so you won't have the option of selecting the 20V range, but only need to select DCV ().

Key off 14.5

Engine running 14.2

3000 rpm 14.3 with main beam and 2 front spots

The numbers seem "fishy" but don't show an increased output while running which would leave me suspicious of that alternator

[Bighead]

Key off 14.5

Engine running 14.2

3000 rpm 14.3 with main beam and 2 front spots

The key off 14.5 doesn't sound right, but the other numbers do.  Typo?  If not, let the bike sit for a couple of hours, then measure voltage with the key off.  You might be reading what is known as the "surface charge".

OK Will do. Thanks.

I couldn't bring myself to rev it up to 5,000 rpm 

Now don't tell me you never hit 5k on take off

[..]

Key off 14.5

Engine running 14.2

3000 rpm 14.3 with main beam and 2 front spots

The key off 14.5 doesn't sound right, but the other numbers do.  Typo?  If not, let the bike sit for a couple of hours, then measure voltage with the key off.  You might be reading what is known as the "surface charge".

OK Will do. Thanks.

I couldn't bring myself to rev it up to 5,000 rpm 

Now don't tell me you never hit 5k on take off

Actually no. Not in first. After that zoom, zoom. L love the way the bike pulls through 2nd, 3rd and 4th.

But to do it in neutral just sounded wrong.

[..]

Key off 14.5

Engine running 14.2

3000 rpm 14.3 with main beam and 2 front spots

The key off 14.5 doesn't sound right, but the other numbers do.  Typo?  If not, let the bike sit for a couple of hours, then measure voltage with the key off.  You might be reading what is known as the "surface charge".

OK key off and now it reads 13.2.

Good yes?

[Gryphon Rider]

Key off 14.5

Engine running 14.2

3000 rpm 14.3 with main beam and 2 front spots

The key off 14.5 doesn't sound right, but the other numbers do.  Typo?  If not, let the bike sit for a couple of hours, then measure voltage with the key off.  You might be reading what is known as the "surface charge".

OK key off and now it reads 13.2.

Good yes?

That's perfect for a new battery.
I would confirm your engine running at 1500 RPM produces 14.3 or thereabouts and call it good.

[..]

Key off 14.5

Engine running 14.2

3000 rpm 14.3 with main beam and 2 front spots

The key off 14.5 doesn't sound right, but the other numbers do.  Typo?  If not, let the bike sit for a couple of hours, then measure voltage with the key off.  You might be reading what is known as the "surface charge".

OK key off and now it reads 13.2.

Good yes?

That's perfect for a new battery.
I would confirm your engine running at 1500 RPM produces 14.3 or thereabouts and call it good.

14.2 at 1500 rpm 

thanks for your help.

[Memor86]

Britman,

An inexpensive Multi-meter could get you to the source of this problem and many that may come down the line. For about $20 and the same amount of time you just spent posting and responding in this string you can learn how to do basic electrical tests. It's really that easy!

I recently posted a reply to a similar question in this thread http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,89376.msg880413.html#msg880413
(I have not idea if my link will work, I'm skilled at diagnosis of electrical issues but not forums).

After the first step I suggested in that thread you would have found your problem if it's a battery issue. I've only been on this forum a short time but I can see there's a wealth of knowledge and knowledgeable folks here but we need good information to assist.

I don't mean to come across as condescending, just offering up general advice. Pick up a meter and send me a PM, I'd be happy to get you started on some basic diag skills.

Matt

i was just thinking the same, after reading every post, nobody suggested to do the very first thing to do, measure the volts at the battery.

a hook multi meter is a better tool than a cheap 20 buck harbor freight thing..

invest in a hook meter so you can also measure the amps flowing trough the power wires, this way you can see if there is current flowing even with you key off, this means you have a short or a wired accesory draining power.

another thing you need to do is check your charging system, when you get the new battery, get a volt meter and check if your bike is charging the battery

[Gryphon Rider]

Britman,

An inexpensive Multi-meter could get you to the source of this problem and many that may come down the line. For about $20 and the same amount of time you just spent posting and responding in this string you can learn how to do basic electrical tests. It's really that easy!

I recently posted a reply to a similar question in this thread http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,89376.msg880413.html#msg880413
(I have not idea if my link will work, I'm skilled at diagnosis of electrical issues but not forums).

After the first step I suggested in that thread you would have found your problem if it's a battery issue. I've only been on this forum a short time but I can see there's a wealth of knowledge and knowledgeable folks here but we need good information to assist.

I don't mean to come across as condescending, just offering up general advice. Pick up a meter and send me a PM, I'd be happy to get you started on some basic diag skills.

Matt

i was just thinking the same, after reading every post, nobody suggested to do the very first thing to do, measure the volts at the battery.

a hook multi meter is a better tool than a cheap 20 buck harbor freight thing..

invest in a hook meter so you can also measure the amps flowing trough the power wires, this way you can see if there is current flowing even with you key off, this means you have a short or a wired accesory draining power.

another thing you need to do is check your charging system, when you get the new battery, get a volt meter and check if your bike is charging the battery

Did you miss the last few posts where he was reporting his voltage readings and we found they were good, showing the charging system was fine?

[..]

200 miles yesterday. Stopped and started 5 or 6 times.

Checked volts again this morning. All as should be.