Inzane 17

Grrrrr electrical! Bike dead. Battery dead

Started by .., Mon 22, Aug 2016, 08:03:34

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Kill switch is in bike run position.

I had an Eastern Beaver PC 8 fitted by BigBF. It runs extra driving lights, heated handle bar grips, heated jacket, battery tender.

Did a 600 mile run up the BRP and back with no problems 2 weeks ago.

Had the bike out of the garage this morning cleaning wheels. Turned the key to crank 'er up after cleaning to help dry water spray off.

Heard a click and no bike start. The little red oil light on the instrument gauge flickered each time I tried to start the bike.

Battery terminals are tight.

Fuses from the fuse block are good.

I haven't checked the main 30 amp fuse yet. Wanted to get the electrical brains among you cranked up.

Off to check main fuse.

If that has blown what might cause it? Bad ground? Rubbed wiring after rewire of accessories?

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30 amp fuse is good as are the connections next to it. No corrosion.

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55 amp dog bone fuse is good as well.

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10 amp ignition switch fuse is good as well.

Ricky-D

2000_Valkyrie_Interstate

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Gryphon Rider

First, disconnect, clean, and reconnect battery connections, including negative connection to engine.  If that doesn't work, try boosting from a non-running car.

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Quote from: Gryphon Rider on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 08:47:50
First, disconnect, clean, and reconnect battery connections, including negative connection to engine.  If that doesn't work, try boosting from a non-running car.
Where do I find the neg connection to engine.


Please everyone remember I'M AN ELECTRICAL DUNCE!

John Schmidt

Try jumping across the poles on the start relay. If that works I'd probably check the handlebar start switch.

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Quote from: John Schmidt on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 08:52:18
Try jumping across the poles on the start relay. If that works I'd probably check the handlebar start switch.

I'm not doing that because I don't know what that means. It's electricity the work of the devil.  :D

mark81

Hold the start button in while you rock the kill switch back and forth.
1997 Honda Valkyrie
1981 Honda CB750 Custom

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Quote from: mark81 on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 09:25:11
Hold the start button in while you rock the kill switch back and forth.

Did that.

heard some faint clicking like a relay noise and the oil light cam on without flickering.

Sign to clean the starter switch? Has never given me cause for concern up to now.

hubcapsc

Quote from: Britman on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 08:58:52
Quote from: John Schmidt on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 08:52:18
Try jumping across the poles on the start relay. If that works I'd probably check the handlebar start switch.

I'm not doing that because I don't know what that means. It's electricity the work of the devil.  :D

Take this thing off, like you're checking to see if it is OK:



Hold onto the handle of a screwdriver and lay the blade across the
connections where the relay was. You starter should start cranking away.
If it doesn't, people here (not me) will have more to go on to help you.

-Mike "I think electricity is the work of the devil too..."

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Quote from: hubcapsc on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 09:56:18
Quote from: Britman on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 08:58:52
Quote from: John Schmidt on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 08:52:18
Try jumping across the poles on the start relay. If that works I'd probably check the handlebar start switch.

I'm not doing that because I don't know what that means. It's electricity the work of the devil.  :D

Take this thing off, like you're checking to see if it is OK:



Hold onto the handle of a screwdriver and lay the blade across the
connections where the relay was. You starter should start cranking away.
If it doesn't, people here (not me) will have more to go on to help you.

-Mike "I think electricity is the work of the devil too..."

Will it spark like crazy?

Do I use a rubber handle screwdriver?

I got quite a few English 220v slaps when I was younger. Don't like the shock at all!

hubcapsc

Quote from: Britman on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 10:16:35
Quote from: hubcapsc on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 09:56:18
Quote from: Britman on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 08:58:52
Quote from: John Schmidt on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 08:52:18
Try jumping across the poles on the start relay. If that works I'd probably check the handlebar start switch.

I'm not doing that because I don't know what that means. It's electricity the work of the devil.  :D

Take this thing off, like you're checking to see if it is OK:



Hold onto the handle of a screwdriver and lay the blade across the
connections where the relay was. You starter should start cranking away.
If it doesn't, people here (not me) will have more to go on to help you.

-Mike "I think electricity is the work of the devil too..."

Will it spark like crazy?

Do I use a rubber handle screwdriver?

I got quite a few English 220v slaps when I was younger. Don't like the shock at all!

I've heard people talking about it, and I did it by mistake last time I checked the
relay. No sparks and my bike still works  :cooldude: . It should be as if you are in neutral,
bike off, and you press the starter button. The starter should start cranking away.
I pretty darn sure my key was even off, it by-passes a bunch of circuitry, that's why
it helps knowledgeable people give suggestions about where your problem might
be. You'll either be "good to there", or not. Hopefully some of those knowledgeable
people will chime in here...

-Mike

longrider

I'd lay odds on the battery.  Use a set of jumper cables from your vehicle.  This will eliminate a good or bad battery.  Also REMEMBER when you jump the terminals on the starter relay the motor will turn over and the m/c NEEDS to be in neutral or it will move of the stand


falconbrother

I would still verify that the battery is good.  I've been riding a long time a seen a few batteries die in a year. 

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Doing the screwdriver thing was a bust. No sparks, no nuttin.

I plugged in the battery tneder and turned the key and this relay? made a whining noise.



I'll leave the battery tender on for a while longer to see if that makes a difference and if the bike then starts I'll whip the battery out and take it to get checked.

Busy looking for battery receipt right now  :(

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That's why I have a file named Warranties. Find a receipt in minutes. So long as I filed it in the first place  ;D

Battery was bought Nov 4, 2015.

It's a YTX14-BS High Performance Power Sports Battery. Cost $39.00 with free shipping.

Bought from Chromebattery.com

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Turned key on. All the idiot lights came on.

Not enough juice yet to crank.

Seems like the battery is has shuffled off it mortal coil.

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old2soon

Jump M/C battery from yer cage. Paul-you're not on an I/S-are you? RIDE SAFE.
Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion

pancho

Quote from: Britman on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 11:02:47
That's why I have a file named Warranties. Find a receipt in minutes. So long as I filed it in the first place  ;D

Battery was bought Nov 4, 2015.

It's a YTX14-BS High Performance Power Sports Battery. Cost $39.00 with free shipping.

Bought from Chromebattery.com

Wow... a $40 motorcycle battery with free shipping....  well, got you a year and a half Britman.  Sounds like my kind of shopping, glad you got the problem solved.
The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.

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Quote from: pancho on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 15:03:37
Quote from: Britman on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 11:02:47
That's why I have a file named Warranties. Find a receipt in minutes. So long as I filed it in the first place  ;D

Battery was bought Nov 4, 2015.

It's a YTX14-BS High Performance Power Sports Battery. Cost $39.00 with free shipping.

Bought from Chromebattery.com

Wow... a $40 motorcycle battery with free shipping....  well, got you a year and a half Britman.  Sounds like my kind of shopping, glad you got the problem solved.

Check yer math Pancho  :cooldude:

The emperor has no clothes

Quote from: Britman on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 15:10:56
Quote from: pancho on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 15:03:37
Quote from: Britman on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 11:02:47
That's why I have a file named Warranties. Find a receipt in minutes. So long as I filed it in the first place  ;D

Battery was bought Nov 4, 2015.

It's a YTX14-BS High Performance Power Sports Battery. Cost $39.00 with free shipping.

Bought from Chromebattery.com

Wow... a $40 motorcycle battery with free shipping....  well, got you a year and a half Britman.  Sounds like my kind of shopping, glad you got the problem solved.

Check yer math Pancho  :cooldude:
For me batteries seem to be a crap shoot. Expensive ones can crap out soon and cheap ones can last for 8 years.

Chrisj CMA

Check alternator output too.  That battery should have lasted longer but if its not being charged, well you know.....dead

Gryphon Rider

Britman, my suggestion is to find someone local to you who knows his way around motorcycle electrics and have him help you diagnose your problem.  He doesn't have to know Valkyries in particular, as your problem is likely not Valkyrie specific.  Show him the schematics on the Rattlebars web site (below), and he should find the source of your troubles without too much trouble.

http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/

pancho

Quote from: Britman on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 15:10:56
Quote from: pancho on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 15:03:37
Quote from: Britman on Mon 22, Aug 2016, 11:02:47
That's why I have a file named Warranties. Find a receipt in minutes. So long as I filed it in the first place  ;D

Battery was bought Nov 4, 2015.

It's a YTX14-BS High Performance Power Sports Battery. Cost $39.00 with free shipping.

Bought from Chromebattery.com

Wow... a $40 motorcycle battery with free shipping....  well, got you a year and a half Britman.  Sounds like my kind of shopping, glad you got the problem solved.

Check yer math Pancho  :cooldude:


Not sure where my head was at.......  Like Chris said,,, make sure the alternator is working and keeping the battery charged up.
The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.

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Having been on the battery tender for a few hours there's not much life when turning on key and hitting the start button.

I'll remove the battery tomorrow and take it for a check up.

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The battery tender function lights show the battery is fully charged.

So if the battery is OK when tested tomorrow I'll strip the starter button and take a look inside.

big poppa pump

Just because the battery tender shows it's fully charged doesn't necessarily mean that the battery's good. I'm probably guessing that a couple of cells are out in the battery. A load test on the battery should reveal that.
VRCC#35870
VRCCDS#0266
1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod


Jess from VA

At least with my Battery Tender Jr, if the battery is dead or unchargable, the tender quits trying to charge (red led) almost immediately, and the green led (showing fully charged) was on.  This only happened once; I only had one dead battery since I started using them full time.

Six Guns

99 Valkyrie Interstate VRCC Member # 17,369


Gryphon Rider

Quote from: Six Guns on Tue 23, Aug 2016, 01:35:23
Britman, get a new battery.  :cooldude:
Waste of money until you know the battery is the issue.

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Insert the word battery as needed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vuW6tQ0218

Pep Boys tested it for me.

Paladin528

Stop using water to clean your bike.  REgular water is a conductor and can (and will) cause shorts as well as corrosion.

Grumpy

Check the ground connection to the motor, it is on the left side of the clutch cover behind the alternator. I had that one get loose on my Interstate and created about the same problem.


Life is like a hot bath. It feels good while you're in it, but the longer you stay in, the more wrinkled you get.

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Quote from: Grumpy on Tue 23, Aug 2016, 09:59:51
Check the ground connection to the motor, it is on the left side of the clutch cover behind the alternator. I had that one get loose on my Interstate and created about the same problem.

I'll check that but pep Boys said it's dead. They gave me a computer readout.

Chrisj CMA

Quote from: Britman on Tue 23, Aug 2016, 10:13:09
Quote from: Grumpy on Tue 23, Aug 2016, 09:59:51
Check the ground connection to the motor, it is on the left side of the clutch cover behind the alternator. I had that one get loose on my Interstate and created about the same problem.

I'll check that but pep Boys said it's dead. They gave me a computer readout.

Something to ponder...............Pep Boys says DEAD and it no workie, so its probably dead...........battery tender said  "fully charged"  So when ruling out the battery as the cause for no start, the reading on a battery tender is not enough to rule out a dead battery,  That's the main reason its always good to use a known good battery to jump and see if it starts.

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Quote from: Chrisj CMA on Tue 23, Aug 2016, 13:15:58
Quote from: Britman on Tue 23, Aug 2016, 10:13:09
Quote from: Grumpy on Tue 23, Aug 2016, 09:59:51
Check the ground connection to the motor, it is on the left side of the clutch cover behind the alternator. I had that one get loose on my Interstate and created about the same problem.

I'll check that but pep Boys said it's dead. They gave me a computer readout.

Something to ponder...............Pep Boys says DEAD and it no workie, so its probably dead...........battery tender said  "fully charged"  So when ruling out the battery as the cause for no start, the reading on a battery tender is not enough to rule out a dead battery,  That's the main reason its always good to use a known good battery to jump and see if it starts.

To late already shipped back to seller.