stripper chest

[Varmintmist]

Made ya look.

I have a dresser that is approx 1920 vintage or a bit earlier, possibly 1850-60's. Looks like poplar, doweled sides on the drawers, back nailed, real silvered mirror . It was my mothers growing up so I know it wasnt new when she got it. It isnt a great dresser as in worth a lot as a antique. I was going to leave it alone, however it has come to the point where it is going to start living upstairs and I really took a good look at it and just cant do it. (Like I need another project) It is rough. My mom liked refinishing furniture so I kind of doubt she would mind.

Looks like it lived in a basement or garage where cans were placed on it. The top is covered in rings and flaking off. I know the top layer is shellac because alcohol can be used to remove it. Under the shellac, it looks antiqued, no idea with what or how they did it, or when it was done. I am going to try the citrus stripper because it has to be done inside, and I dont want to sand the whole thing. Done that on a few pieces and this one is pretty big. Any suggestions or a better idea on DOB? 




The plan is to strip it as best as I can get it, then do a black cherry stain and oil finish it. I hate poly and am willing to put in two extra weeks to do it. If it has good grain, then I might just go oil and natural leaving the character marks. If it is beat to snot, or lacks any grain or color, then gloss black after I try to raise the dents.

Cool stuff on the piece





bolts and nuts

[Jersey mike]

For removing the old finish I can't recommend anything to do it gently but if you're looking for a production date, there may be one stamped on the back of the mirror which will tell you when the mirror was made.

There may be a marking under one of the drawers of the maker of the dresser and possibly a year.

If you don't like the look of the mirror and you look to have it replaced, keep the mirror, don't throw it away. Having the original mirror will add to the value of the piece if you ever wish to get it appraised.

Wrap the mirror in craft paper or something similar and store it in a dry place.

[F-six]

That's are really nice dresser. Would love to see the end result!

 

[cookiedough]

good luck,  sounds like a project to do all the fine detail. 

Not much of a stainer,  once in high school I built a wooden bow stand that sits on the ground and never read the staining directions on the metal container.  Well,  classes are only 45 minutes so I figured I could get the stain on one period and let it sit overnight the next day - WRONG.  It was like permanently dark and UGLY next day was suppose to after an hour or less of soaking in remove most of it with a clean cloth.  Spent the next 5 days sanding it all off again what a pain in the butt and looked ugly once done some stain was so dark and embedded into the wood would not come off no matter what cleanser I used to remove the set in stain.  Sucks putting so much time and hard work for a nice wooden bow stand to screw it up with not removing stain soon after applying as one of the last steps. 

[Crackerborn]

For my 2 cents, take it to a professional and have them dip and strip. You can the then stain, paint, finish to your hearts desire. It appears to be solid wood, not veneers, so if you want to strip it yourself, you can use any product. I stay away from water based products since they raise the grain and you can spend way too long with sandpaper in hand once the grain raises.

[The emperor has no clothes]

FALSE ADVERTISING   

[..]

I was a professional stripper for a short while working for some friends.

Used a heated caustic soda bath that was big enough to put an armoire in.

Had to wear rubber boOots, elbow length rubber gloves and a below the knee rubber apron.

The guys would buy dozens of pine pieces which I stripped down to the bare wood.

They then sanded, finished and shipped to the USA.

[baldo]

For my 2 cents, take it to a professional and have them dip and strip. You can the then stain, paint, finish to your hearts desire. It appears to be solid wood, not veneers, so if you want to strip it yourself, you can use any product. I stay away from water based products since they raise the grain and you can spend way too long with sandpaper in hand once the grain raises.

Dip and strip works well, but be aware that it can affect the glue joints and loosen the piece. I had a couple of chairs stripped before upholstering them. I had to remove all corner blocks and reglue...

A piece of that vintage is most likely built using hide glue, not sure if it will be affected the same way.

[Gryphon Rider]

I was a professional stripper for a short while working for some friends.

I've never been a professional stripper.  All my stripping is as an amateur, with a very small, occasionally appreciative, audience.

[The emperor has no clothes]

I was a professional stripper for a short while working for some friends.

I've never been a professional stripper.  All my stripping is as an amateur, with a very small, occasionally appreciative, audience.

occasionally ? 

[fudgie]

Ive stripped a few pieces. Stain is harder to remove then paint. You may do a lot of sanding. Use high quality stripper. We've done it in a garage and had no fumes. A wire brush helps in the grooves along with a old steak knife. Mineral spirits helped to. Its gonna take awhile to do all that.

[Varmintmist]

FALSE ADVERTISING   

Bah, you are a Democrat, you thrive on living a lie. 

[Varmintmist]

Thought of taking it to a pro stripper and getting it dipped, but If it shows no grain or color, then I can stop stripping and sand and paint. The problem with paint is that the dents that would be character stained or oiled, are just dents under paint.

This one isnt my first rodeo, I have never had a lot of luck with chemical strippers, I have mostly gone the sand sand sand route. I really dont want to do that here. There is not much detail, and I think I can work it out with sand paper OK, but I have no idea what the antiquing under the shellac is made of and from experience, it can be a demon to get off, even if it is 20-30 years old. This is well beyond that.

The mirror is going back on as is. My hope is that there is some grain, it cleans up, and I can oil it. I think a blonde piece with the knobs stained or painted black or deep brown would look good. If not, I did a side table in a black cherry stain and Tung oil. Kinda liked it. Deep with a purple hue,

[The emperor has no clothes]

FALSE ADVERTISING   

Bah, you are a Democrat, you thrive on living a lie. 

Been registered as an Independent my entire life. 

[mike72903]

FALSE ADVERTISING   

May not be totally false. The mirror holders in foto 4 resemble a..... well you know.

[Oss]

I have worked on a few pieces, one is a 100 yr old desk with hidden spring loaded typewriter drawer that is in my office.

sorry for the hijack.......... but when I see stripper chest I think college, (the south forty)

[The emperor has no clothes]

Knew I could count on my buddy Oss. 

[Crackerborn]

At the apparent age of that piece,  I can promise hide glue was used. Franklin makes a no heat, no stink  hide glue that workes very well. If you want to see if a joint has hide glue holding it together, a steam iron will soften the glue and the joint should separate.  Just reassemble  before the glue cools.

[Varmintmist]

All of the joints are solid so no need for glue. I wouldnt bet against you though.

[Varmintmist]

FALSE ADVERTISING   

Bah, you are a Democrat, you thrive on living a lie. 

Been registered as an Independent my entire life. 

Well then you are used to unrealized expectations.