Engine hanger bolt?

[saddlesore]

I came across a loose bolt with no nut on the back side.  It's on the right side in back of the engine guard.
I can't see a loose bolt or pick one up with a magnet.  Can't find any definitive answer on parts lists.
Is this from one of the engine hangers?  
Thanks

[gordonv]

Yes, and no.

Looks like the front engine hanger, but it's the one mounted to the frame. You can see the crash guard there. The rear is a hanger plate, 2 bolts on the top to the frame, one on the bottom to the engine.

There are 4 "tabs" in the corners of the engines, and a single bolt goes through them and have a nut on the inside. If your's is loose, then the nut is missing.

http://www.procaliber.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053ea2bf870021c54be3e88/frame

part 15 and 28.

You can see 7 & 8, the rear engine hanger. Any picture you find of a loose more, should show those tabs I'm referring to. I usually look on ebay for a picture, rather than a fiche.

[hubcapsc]

You can see the bolt in this picture pretty clearly, and the one
on the other side, too...



-Mike

[Chrisj CMA]

I came across a loose bolt with no nut on the back side.  It's on the right side in back of the engine guard.
I can't see a loose bolt or pick one up with a magnet.  Can't find any definitive answer on parts lists.
Is this from one of the engine hangers?  
Thanks

All you have to do is slip your M/C lift under the motor and support the engine, lift until the bolt pulls out.  Then take it to a parts house that sells grade 8 nuts and bolts and just match one up and boom.

Then come home and clean that bike! Then treat the rust growing in the mount hole, use some blue locktite when securing that thing

[saddlesore]

Thanks for posting that picture.  It lets me know what I'm dealing with.
The bolt slid out without jacking up the engine.  Now I just have to figure out the best way to access the back side of the mount,
The closeup view sure shows any dirt doesn't it?   My neighbors always comment on how clean and well kept the bike looks but then they just see a streak going by.   

[Chrisj CMA]

It's easy to just reach behind from the rear of the location of the bolt... easy

[saddlesore]

I have small hands and I can't find a way to do that.  Doesn't look too easy to me.

[longrider]

It is easy to remove the front intake runner  that may make it accessible

[hubcapsc]

I was feeling around in the pseudo-dark for the nut on my bike earlier...
It seems to be "hidden" behind that radiator flap that people are
always compaining about being hard to remove... I wonder if its
corner can just be pushed aside or pried extra-open a little to
help reach the far side of the bolt?

-Mike

[Ricky-D]

I would wire brush the bolt to insure the nut would thread on effortlessly. Then I would fabricate a nut holder out of a piece of wire like a coat hanger so that I could snake the nut in behind everything and get it all buttoned up like it's supposed to be. Loctite or not really doesn't matter because the bolt will be constantly looked at and tested in the future. If you tighten it down properly there should be no problem.

***

[saddlesore]

I have a new no.8 nut and bolt.   I've been looking into a blind, structural, toggle bolt but I'm finding that while they exist finding a supplier that has the right size and a high tensile strength and doesn't sell only in bulk is the difficult part.   

[Chrisj CMA]

If you can't get it around the corner, in front of the wind dam, I guess I was lucky or too dumb to know it was supposed to be hard.  You can drain the radiator disconnect the hoses and then unbolt and move it enough to get at the back side of the engine mount.

[hubcapsc]

My bike was... well used... when I got it. It might be that loosening
the radiator bolts and stuff without draining or disconnecting the
hoses will give you enough room. All I remember for sure is that
my radiator was kind of loose and I had to cause it to be bolted
back on properly.



-Mike "it's getting better..."

[saddlesore]

My solution was to use a 1\4 " piece of spring steel bent just right with a piece of 3M tape on the end.
I stuck the nut on the tape to hold it on the back side.  A little bit of patience paid off.   

[The emperor has no clothes]

My solution was to use a 1\4 " piece of spring steel bent just right with a piece of 3M tape on the end.
I stuck the nut on the tape to hold it on the back side.  A little bit of patience paid off.   

Were you able to get a wrench on it to tighten it up ?

[saddlesore]

An angled needle nosed pliers was enough to get it firmed up.   I'll be checking often to make sure it's tight.   
I've seen car engines with broken motor mounts that twist the engine when you rev it.  With a flat six I wonder what kind of twisting might happen.

[Jess from VA]

My wife had a V6 Taurus that kept breaking motor mounts.  If you rev'ed the engine, it swung up enough to whack the hood.  Three sets of OE rubber mounts before I discovered you had to get aftermarket poly mounts which would not break.  Sorry for the drift.