Need input on grinding concrete steps.

[John Schmidt]

Just had a new driveway and most of the front sidewalk replaced Friday, thanks to our city's penchant for trees with long and large roots. We live on a nice street, the water oaks create a bit of an arch over the street but after 30+ years they ruined our and many other driveways. One area was bucked up as much as 5" so replacement was the only thing to do since the rest of the drive was cracking all over, as was the walk leading off it to the front door. In the process of doing the walk, I asked if it's possible to pour the bottom step as well which leads up to the porch and front door. They did but....put such a slope on it the handrails which are mounted to the step and an adjacent wall no longer fit vertical. They're off vertical as much as 2"....just a SWAG eyeballing it. If I had known that was to be the outcome, I would have shoved the rails in place while the cement was still wet, thereby at least it would have carved out an area allowing normal placement. Now it's hard as....concrete!  So, is there some sort of grinding disk I can put on my die grinder that will cut that stuff. Only needs to be a slot about an inch wide and maybe 3" long, plus nearly 2" deep to allow the rails to be mounted vertical. And would be up against the nearby wall so when the rails are mounted the slots aren't visible. At least the main job was done quick and efficiently....and looks great so have no complaints with that. Other than I'm looking at a couple hundred $$ to repair the irrigation system they tore up and out. I guess nothing is perfect, just wish they had talked to me during the process. They did install a 3" diameter PVC feeder pipe under the drive before pouring so at least it will be easier to run a new supply water line for that section of the sprinkler system.

[da prez]

  Yes , concrete blades are available. Why not cut and re weld the railing. You have all the tools to do that. Back to the concrete. After a while , a masonary bit in a hammer drill is faster and easier. You start the drill bit about an inch away and drill down to the guestimated  depth. Several holes  later and you should be able to pull it loose. Epoxy cement is available in small quanities.

                                                  da prez

[John Schmidt]

Ross, I could probably reweld it easy enough. Be kinda ugly(I'm a lousy but effective welder ) but it would be painted after dressing it down smooth. Might be my best approach mainly because it's hotter than blazes right now. I'll try taking a couple pics in the next day or two and send them via PM.

[Hook#3287]

I was going to suggest you drill a series of holes with a hammer drill, remove and reset the rail posts, then fill the holes with epoxy, but da prez beat me to it.

[John Schmidt]

Hook, only problem is I don't have a hammer drill, have never needed one. Might look at that approach and see if I can borrow one before cutting/welding.

[MaverickValk]

Whatever you decide to do in the way of grinding/drilling, do it as quickly as possible. The concrete is as soft as it's ever going to be. Concrete will quickly harden over the next seven days and harden at a slower rate over the next month (and beyond).

[Hook#3287]

Hook, only problem is I don't have a hammer drill, have never needed one. Might look at that approach and see if I can borrow one before cutting/welding.

You could rent a Hilti at any Home Depot or Lowes.  Just about any construction guy should have one.  Many regular drills these days come with the hammer feature.  What MaverickValk says is true, I didn't consider that, but even if cured, you should be able to get it done without too much sweat.

[Rams]

They did but....put such a slope on it the handrails which are mounted to the step and an adjacent wall no longer fit vertical. They're off vertical as much as 2"....just a SWAG eyeballing it.

Would need to see a picture to fully understand but, I'm wondering about that slope.   Two inches of slope could make that step a real slip hazard in wet weather or when the snow flies.    Which make me wonder if the answer is to knock it out and start over.   

[Robert]

I have a hand held grinder with a concrete wheel on it and it would make short work of that small an area. I also have a circular saw that I bought a concrete blade for that works ok. The only thing is the dust is really abrasive and a bit sticky so I was worried about the saw. But no ill effects after a clean up.

RAMS S FLA so if the snow flies we will have more to worry about LOL

[MP]

As stated, the sooner the better.

[f6john]

To cut slots in the concrete a thin diamond blade on a angle grinder will cut through even hardened concrete. Probably would still need a masonry drill bit to clean up the corners etc. I have a 4" diamond blade, about $40.00, that I keep on my angle grinder. It has cut granite, concrete, and porcelain tile with ease.

[Art708]

 
  Could  you not re-form that step and pour enough concrete to bring it up to where you want it? Sounds a lot easier than grinding and chipping at it.