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Inzane 17

front end noise

Started by Randy52, Thu 01, Jun 2017, 10:42:29

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Randy52

Got a hard to describe front end noise.Kind of a growl/rumble/occasional sharper rattle. Only had it for last 3k. Bike has 36k. As general maintance over winter I replaced front wheel bearings, Avon tire with new Avon, OEM brake pads. Noise still there. Jacked up, no play in steering head bearings, wheel spins smooth, used front tire torque procedure according to this site. If I slightly drag front brake(still there). At 40 mph, pull in clutch-hit kill switch, coast to stop, noise there till stopped. I think that would rule out anything in front of eng. timing belt, idlers. Can't feel any vibration in bars. Don't think it gear whine as it does it under power-coasting- or holding back. Could it be something to do with the front shocks? Nothing seems loose. Everything works great, engine runs great. Any assistance would be appreciated.                 

Randy52

Forgot to say it's a 97 standard

Firefighter

Difficult to speculate without hearing for myself, are you sure it is up front? Can you spin rear wheel and listen for sound? Does the sound speed up and slow down with wheel speed, or different gear selection? Can you feel this in the bike, feet, hands or through the seat? Those answers would direct me more where to look.
2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red
2006 Honda Sabre 1100
2013 Honda Spirit 750
2002 Honda Rebel 250
1978 Honda 750

Beardo

Only thing left I can think of in the front that's related to tire rotation is the speedo cable or speedo drive. Might want to look at them?

Jess from VA

Some tires make noise, nearly new or not.  Usually more pronounced in turns, but not necessarily.

Doesn't mean they are defective, delaminating, or out of balance (though it can).

When I've had a strange noise, with the bike on the lift, I take a rubber mallet and start tapping and whacking things here and there to see if I can make the noise again.  (chasing loose things)

Tfrank59

#5
When you replaced those bearings in the front, what procedure did you follow? If you didn't get those pressed in just right they could have failed already. There's a spacer between them inside the Hub and if that isn't a very snug fit between the inner races, then there's going to be an excessive sideload on the bearings which will cause a premature failure.  If you rule out everything else and still believe it's in the front wheel or somewhere in the front, you might want to pull the wheel and inspect the bearings.
-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, '02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...

..


Tfrank59

-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, '02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...

franco6

Try different  pressures , some tyres will make noise at different angle , speed , pressure, load. :cooldude:
Enjoy the ride!

MITCHO

Check your speedo cable.

Randy52

Update. I only had time to check front wheel bearings. After prying brake pads back,giving tire a good spin with hand it will spin 25 times before stopping. Very smooth. Yes, spacer was snug after installing bearings. I checked BUZZ BOLT before but may loosen and retighten. Going to check rear end of bike today while still on lift. Thanks for suggestions, will update later.

Jess from VA

#11
On the buzz bolt, understand that it is not really the bolt that buzzes.  It is the the long frame spacer inside the frame mounts, that covers the buzz bolt, that rattles and buzzes. (When mine got going, it drove me crazy)

I torqued the heck out of my bolt, and the noise only barely got a bit quieter.  It's harder to get to on an interstate with pods than the other bikes.  Short of taking things apart to access the frame spacer itself (and maybe adding a single washer to the spacer inside the frame members), I finally only got it tight by putting a breaker bar on it and pulling so hard I think I actually bent/flexed one or both frame members inward/together a millimeter or two, to finally capture my rattling spacer.  I was sure I was going to break the bolt, and it squealed loudly, but the hardened steel nut and bolt did not break.  Only use a 6-point socket.

 

Randy52

I think I got it. I loosened left side axle pinch bolts AND LEFT FENDER BOLTS. The fender sprung in somewhat. Then I bounced the front end--tapped fork tube with rubber hammer--bounced again,repeated, then torqued  LH pinch bolts, then fender bolts. Took for test drive, about 90% of irritating noise is gone. I'm thinking the fender may have been holding the shock tube from properly aligning with upper tube?? I also payed closer attention to road surfaces. Now, when going from older asphalt to new asphalt the noise totally disappeared. I also really cranked down the 'buzz bolts' till I thought they would break. I'm going to possibly shim buzz next time I'm in that area as suggested.I'm going to call it "case closed " for now anyway. Thanks much for all the helpful suggestions.

Tfrank59

-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, '02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...

Valkpilot

Quote from: Jess from VA on Fri 02, Jun 2017, 11:02:43
On the buzz bolt, understand that it is not really the bolt that buzzes.  It is the the long frame spacer inside the frame mounts, that covers the buzz bolt, that rattles and buzzes. (When mine got going, it drove me crazy)

I torqued the heck out of my bolt, and the noise only barely got a bit quieter.  It's harder to get to on an interstate with pods than the other bikes.  Short of taking things apart to access the frame spacer itself (and maybe adding a single washer to the spacer inside the frame members), I finally only got it tight by putting a breaker bar on it and pulling so hard I think I actually bent/flexed one or both frame members inward/together a millimeter or two, to finally capture my rattling spacer.  I was sure I was going to break the bolt, and it squealed loudly, but the hardened steel nut and bolt did not break.  Only use a 6-point socket.

 

Rather than over-tightening the bolt, I think a better approach is to squirt a little RTV in the spacer tube.  It coats the bolt as it passes through the tube and eliminates rattle.  For extra insurance, put a little in the cradles the tube sits in.
VRCC #19757
IBA #44686
1998 Black Standard
2007 Goldwing