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Need advice

Started by 1NorthRyder, Wed 27, Sep 2017, 16:00:26

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1NorthRyder

Bike was running a little rough, I removed all the spark plugs and the #1 plug, front right side was wet. When the bike is running and I hold my hand over the exhaust it comes away wet. Seems to be a mixture of gas and oil. I need an idea of what Kind of an issue I may be dealing with and should I not be running it until I get it dealt with?

Chrisj CMA

How long has it been since running right?  Has it sat a long time?

1NorthRyder

I've been riding all season but when I went out last night it was running a little rough so I thought I would check the plugs.

Blackduck

Did you change that plug out?
If you don't have a spare plug swap it to the other side of the engine and on a cylinder to the rear. Run it and see if the problem is still with #1. If still at #1 you may have a faulty needle and seat and needs to be taken care of quickly. Be careful starting until you sort it in case of hydrolock.
2001 Standard, 78 Goldwing, VRCC 21411

flash2002

Just for the hell of it, check to make sure the intake manifold vacuum plugs are all there.

1NorthRyder

These plugs are only two months old so it's unlikely (but not impossible) no spark is the issue. I bought the bike last year with only 12,000 miles on it so it had been sitting a lot. I have been riding it pretty often through the summer including a 7,000mile trip which is when I swapped the plugs about half way through. I'm leaning towards something, perhaps some Shelac, that has come loose in the carb and is stuck in there. I'll maybe try some Sea Foam and see if that breaks up whatever is in there.

Houdini

Quote from: 1NorthRyder on Thu 28, Sep 2017, 05:23:17
I'll maybe try some Sea Foam and see if that breaks up whatever is in there.

Seafoam won't help if that's the problem, use B12 or one of the carb cleaners.

Seafoam is only good for sucking it straight into the intake through a vacuum line and letting the engine sit for 10 - 20 minutes to remove carbon deposits.  Cleaners like Berryman's will clean gunk and varnish out of the carbs.
"A Camera And A Bike....What More Do I Need?


WintrSol

Quote from: 1NorthRyder on Thu 28, Sep 2017, 05:23:17
These plugs are only two months old so it's unlikely (but not impossible) no spark is the issue.
If no spark is the issue, you would have two dead cylinders, since one coil fires two at the same time.
Seafoam could work, but it usually requires enough fuel flowing through a partially clogged passage to clean. B-12 or Techron would be better choices for a clog, IMO.
98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service

Hooter

#8
If you don't think its spark?  Fill it with non ethenol gas if you can and throw a half can of B12 at it. Like the others have said, B12 is a bunch bether cleaner. Ride it for 50+ miles or so and let it set over night. Ride the rest out on your next ride. Refill, use the last half of B12.  See if things improve..
You are never lost if you don't care where you are!

Hook#3287

Quote from: WintrSol on Thu 28, Sep 2017, 11:14:05
Quote from: 1NorthRyder on Thu 28, Sep 2017, 05:23:17
These plugs are only two months old so it's unlikely (but not impossible) no spark is the issue.
If no spark is the issue, you would have two dead cylinders, since one coil fires two at the same time.
Seafoam could work, but it usually requires enough fuel flowing through a partially clogged passage to clean. B-12 or Techron would be better choices for a clog, IMO.
This statement is confusing, but I believe 1NorthRyder is saying NOT having spark is NOT the reason.

Easy to find out, pull the plugs and check.

As WintrSol states, a bad coil will affect 2 plugs. 

Having a wet plug makes me think spark is missing, is the #1 plug sparking?

WintrSol

Quote from: Hook#3287 on Thu 28, Sep 2017, 16:50:03
Quote from: WintrSol on Thu 28, Sep 2017, 11:14:05
If no spark is the issue, you would have two dead cylinders, since one coil fires two at the same time.
Seafoam could work, but it usually requires enough fuel flowing through a partially clogged passage to clean. B-12 or Techron would be better choices for a clog, IMO.
This statement is confusing, but I believe 1NorthRyder is saying NOT having spark is NOT the reason.

Easy to find out, pull the plugs and check.

As WintrSol states, a bad coil will affect 2 plugs. 

Having a wet plug makes me think spark is missing, is the #1 plug sparking?
The only way I can think of that causes spark failing on only one plug is if the spark is going around the plug. A failure in the cap causing a short, like carbon-tracking or moisture, or a bad plug or plug wire could cause this.
98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service

WintrSol

Here's a thought - have you checked the enrichment valve on that carb, so see that it isn't stuck open, somehow? Not sure how, but I suppose it could.
98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service

1NorthRyder

Not sure but I believe I've solved the problem, the choke cable was loose so it was not fully open (or closed...whatever). I adjusted and tightened the cable and went for a short ride last night and it seemed OK. I still don't think the bike is 100% (maybe 85%) but finding a good mechanic to work on a valk here in northern Ontario isn't easy. Going to need to find someone good and then go for a vacation to get it worked on. I'm confident the issue is the carbs, of course I could be wrong I did get married after all. I have the ultimate man cave to work on the bike but am not confident in my ability to mess around with the carbs. Leaving on the Valk on Sunday morning for a conference in the Muskoka's for  a week so a beautiful six hour ride will tell the tale.

longrider

I've  had a new plug that quit firing shortly after install. For the price if a new plug it's worth it to replace one And give it a try

3fan4life

A couple of times a year especially If I'm going on a long trip I'll get a bottle or two of this to run through the carbs.



I'll start with about 1/2 bottle to a full tank and then add according to the directions on the bottle.

What works best about this is that it runs the cleaner through over an extended period of time and miles.


This works wonders with one of mine when it starts to run a little rough.
1 Corinthians 1:18


1NorthRyder

Just an update. Ran carb cleaner through while on a 400 mile run and she's running much better now.

h13man

Change out the plugs which is recommended every 8,000 mi. My girl loses one every 10,000 mi. until I read that 8,000 is plug change interval.  :uglystupid2:

cookiedough

Quote from: h13man on Mon 09, Oct 2017, 08:47:11
Change out the plugs which is recommended every 8,000 mi. My girl loses one every 10,000 mi. until I read that 8,000 is plug change interval.  :uglystupid2:

every 8K??  really?  I guess most of us are long overdue for a spark plug change...  I was thinking every 30K miles would be sufficient?

Houdini

Quote from: h13man on Mon 09, Oct 2017, 08:47:11
Change out the plugs which is recommended every 8,000 mi. My girl loses one every 10,000 mi. until I read that 8,000 is plug change interval.  :uglystupid2:

My IS got it's first set of new plugs at 90K, they looked and performed perfectly but I went ahead and changed them just because ... I couldn't feel any before and after difference.

There is no way I'd change them every 8K miles, that would be a total waste.
"A Camera And A Bike....What More Do I Need?


Jess from VA

I've changed mine out 2-3 times in 100K.  They all looked pretty good coming out of the bike, but I splurged with $1.79 Nippon Densos anyway.

I changed them when Big BF came and did the valves, synch, air cleaner, and other stuff.  Might as well throw in plugs when you are getting the whole enchilada anyway. 


The emperor has no clothes

Quote from: Jess from VA on Mon 09, Oct 2017, 11:59:01
I've changed mine out 2-3 times in 100K.  They all looked pretty good coming out of the bike, but I splurged with $1.79 Nippon Densos anyway.

I changed them when Big BF came and did the valves, synch, air cleaner, and other stuff.  Might as well throw in plugs when you are getting the whole enchilada anyway. 


Are Nippon Densos better than NGK's ? I always thought NGK was considered best.

Jess from VA

My mistake, I use NGKs.  (and I mix them up)

h13man

Well I checked my OEM manual again for my standard and it says to replace (R) at same time the oil and filter is changed. I suggested this as it has happened twice on different cylinders past the 10,000 mi. mark thus finding out 8,000 was replacement time. They didn't foul just quit altogether. I agree that it seems a lot sooner than the norm but... Just trying help a fellow rider out. Went to iridiums the last change. Experiment progress. I use NGK @ all times.

Hook#3287

Quote from: h13man on Tue 10, Oct 2017, 08:32:03
Well I checked my OEM manual again for my standard and it says to replace (R) at same time the oil and filter is changed. I suggested this as it has happened twice on different cylinders past the 10,000 mi. mark thus finding out 8,000 was replacement time. They didn't foul just quit altogether. I agree that it seems a lot sooner than the norm but... Just trying help a fellow rider out. Went to iridiums the last change. Experiment progress. I use NGK @ all times.
I also followed the recommended 8 k change, once, back in 1999.  I can't remember, have to check, but I think I  still be on the second  set at 116 k.  But it could be the third set :roll: