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Author Topic: Who can give me some diode advice?  (Read 494 times)
John Schmidt
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*****
Posts: 15324


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« on: October 01, 2017, 08:57:49 AM »

I was heavy into electronics in the USAF, but that was over 50 yrs. ago and things have changed just a tad since. Ya think?  Grin  I need to make a diode kit for the Valk to prevent my turn signals from acting stupid(all LED). Rather than buy one for around $7-8, I have a couple diodes in my stash and wondering if they're robust enough to handle the 12vdc that would hit them. They would be installed prior to the amber light on the headlight bucket and wired in such a way as to prevent cross feed of the signal. The number on them is: 1N5401, they appear to be good....ohm meter only registers in one direction. Anybody able to help me out? If you have a suggestion for a different one let me know, we have a large surplus outfit locally and they have thousands of them in all kinds of sizes & capabilities.
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baldo
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Posts: 6961


Youbetcha

Cape Cod, MA


« Reply #1 on: October 01, 2017, 09:07:14 AM »

I was heavy into electronics in the USAF, but that was over 50 yrs. ago and things have changed just a tad since. Ya think?  Grin  I need to make a diode kit for the Valk to prevent my turn signals from acting stupid(all LED). Rather than buy one for around $7-8, I have a couple diodes in my stash and wondering if they're robust enough to handle the 12vdc that would hit them. They would be installed prior to the amber light on the headlight bucket and wired in such a way as to prevent cross feed of the signal. The number on them is: 1N5401, they appear to be good....ohm meter only registers in one direction. Anybody able to help me out? If you have a suggestion for a different one let me know, we have a large surplus outfit locally and they have thousands of them in all kinds of sizes & capabilities.

It appears that diode is rated for 3A, 100V. Seems like it would be just fine for LED turn signals...
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John Schmidt
Member
*****
Posts: 15324


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #2 on: October 01, 2017, 09:24:34 AM »

Baldo, where do you find that information?  Since my rear turns are connected to a miniature relay, I'm wondering about possible spikes. Explanation: I removed the reflectors on the saddlebags some years back and installed a 3 LED strip in place of them. I have my turn signal impulse hit the small relay which in turn makes the lights flash. One side of the relay triggers the rear turns, the other side interrupts(is N/C) the voltage to the saddlebag lights, thereby giving the overall appearance of the saddlebag light and the rear turn light to be alternating back/forth. Looks kinda neat and makes you a bit more visible prior to making a turn. So....my concern is as mentioned; with the 100v/3 amp rating I should be able to handle a possible spike created by those miniature relays. Agreed?
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baldo
Member
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Posts: 6961


Youbetcha

Cape Cod, MA


« Reply #3 on: October 01, 2017, 09:30:50 AM »

Baldo, where do you find that information?  Since my rear turns are connected to a miniature relay, I'm wondering about possible spikes. Explanation: I removed the reflectors on the saddlebags some years back and installed a 3 LED strip in place of them. I have my turn signal impulse hit the small relay which in turn makes the lights flash. One side of the relay triggers the rear turns, the other side interrupts(is N/C) the voltage to the saddlebag lights, thereby giving the overall appearance of the saddlebag light and the rear turn light to be alternating back/forth. Looks kinda neat and makes you a bit more visible prior to making a turn. So....my concern is as mentioned; with the 100v/3 amp rating I should be able to handle a possible spike created by those miniature relays. Agreed?

I would think so. 3A is a fair amount of current, in the small electrics world. I'm no expert, but I think it should work...
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RP#62
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Posts: 4113


Gilbert, AZ


WWW
« Reply #4 on: October 01, 2017, 12:02:42 PM »

John, if you google the number you can usually find a spec sheet. 

https://www.vishay.com/docs/88516/1n5400.pdf

-RP
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #5 on: October 01, 2017, 12:23:30 PM »

I was heavy into electronics in the USAF, but that was over 50 yrs. ago and things have changed just a tad since. Ya think?  Grin 
John, your sentence made me think back to my time in the Navy. I maintained and repaired the computer equipment. Data Systems Technician. I worked on an AN/UYK 5 system. Just the computer was as big as a VW Bus, then throw in the tape to tape and card punchers and you had 800 sq. feet taken up. Probably one guy on an iPad sitting on his couch could do it twice as fast now. Yes, things have changed a little.  Smiley
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John Schmidt
Member
*****
Posts: 15324


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #6 on: October 01, 2017, 12:54:03 PM »

When I first started flying I had an early digital E6B for calculating various stuff, sucker was nearly the size of today's laptop. Now, it fits in the palm of your hand with room left over.

As for using the diodes I was asking about, I went ahead and wired things up loosely. Just twisted things together and held the wires in place with small alligator clips. Turned on the key, hit the turn signal, nothing smoked and everything worked perfectly. I obviously did something wrong.  2funny  The leads are real short since they've been used before so tomorrow I plan to hit the surplus store and get some new ones with longer leads. Then I'll be able to wrap up my latest 2 hr. project that has turned into four days. Next, I'll be pulling the radiator off the 1200 and have a local shop clean it out, check for leaks, etc. Last time I had the bike out it was running hot and the fan didn't kick on even the temp was over 220. The fan circuitry is fine, as is the fan, so I plan to flush the block, replace the fan sensor switch and t'stat, and while the front end is clear I'll double check the timing. While the bike is down, I'll also rebuild the starter, it's dragging a bit and at times does a 1-2 second overrun. Might be a sluggish start switch and will be checked in due time.
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