Inzane 17

"Full" Stainless Hardware Upgrade?

Started by quadzillabill, Mon 13, Nov 2017, 10:11:45

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98valk

why?   certain grades of CRES aka stainless can be worst for fastener material strength than OEM.
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798

quadzillabill

Quote from: Vaquero (aka 98valk & CA) on Mon 13, Nov 2017, 10:15:27
why?   certain grades of CRES aka stainless can be worst for fastener material strength than OEM.

Some of my hardware has oxidation - just wondering if anyone did a full swap to stay ahead of that issue.

hubcapsc


If you haven't had your bike since new (or even if so?) maybe
it has had to "live outside" some of the time... in the parking lot
of an apartment complex or whatever...

Anyhow... my eBay Valkyrie had oxidized bits and pieces all
over it... not now though, and since it has been mine, it has
had its own shed to live in. None of the stuff I've replaced
has oxidized...

I like the looks of the OEM fasteners, especially the  ones with
the "built in washers" (flange bolts I guess)...

-Mike

Jess from VA

#4
I think that product is a ... product in search of a mission.

I have needed the occasional nut, bolt or spacer and gone to the hardware for good stainless (rather than order and wait for Honda OE chrome stuff).  But I never needed a whole kit full of stainless.

The time spent to replace all those 113 pieces of hardware would be better spent on necessary maintenance and cleaning.

From the add:   Product Type: Screw Kit       (yes, it is   ;D)  (the price for all that stainless is OK)

northernvalk

I can we this being handy if you found a bike that had lived it's entire life outside and was low mileage etc...A restoration upgrade if you will. I have to agree with Jess though, most people are better off replacing the few that need it from the local bolt bin.

h13man

I've already replace a few with SS. $45 for the kit is very reasonable. Thank you for posting it.

cookiedough

Quote from: h13man on Tue 14, Nov 2017, 08:02:27
I've already replace a few with SS. $45 for the kit is very reasonable. Thank you for posting it.

Yah, if true and 113 pieces (bolts, etc.),  that is a great price since my newly acquired 98 valk had a few missing screws and either stainless steel or VERY expensive chrome plated at my local hardware store were over 1 buck each for a tiny bolt.  I think chrome was over 2 bucks each so went stainless steel not as pretty but at double the price no thanks.

Went to Fastenals and they want you to buy a whole bunch of them to order vs. just say 1-5 needed tops.    They did let me though get 5 of a certain button bolt (needing only 2) ordering at a reasonable 35 cents each but shipping was over 1 buck for very tiny button bolts.  Most times they do not like wasting their time for such a small order.

Paladin528

Stainless can be a real bear when used with Aluminum parts so be careful unless you like drilling, tapping, and Helicoiling holes in the future.  There is a reason they use what they use.

98valk

Quote from: Paladin528 on Tue 14, Nov 2017, 12:40:44
Stainless can be a real bear when used with Aluminum parts so be careful unless you like drilling, tapping, and Helicoiling holes in the future.  There is a reason they use what they use.


:cooldude:
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798

Savago

45 bucks for the bolt/screws kit in stainless steel is a pretty good price.
:-)

h13man

#11
Quote from: Paladin528 on Tue 14, Nov 2017, 12:40:44
Stainless can be a real bear when used with Aluminum parts so be careful unless you like drilling, tapping, and Helicoiling holes in the future.  There is a reason they use what they use.


Most heartly agree for the "unseasoned". ;) If properly installed including torque and antisieze this shouldn't be a issue anymore or less than common steel bolts. SS is less likely to "gall" into a thread than steel. Removing SS isn't anymore a challenge than steel if proper speed feeds are applied. The only time I've had to remove broken bolts (steel) was on Suzuki 850 GL header flanges. Yes they used cheap hex steel bolts instead of studs.  :roll: Otherwise 20 bikes/48 yrs. mostly lost hardware. Early years learned to use a impact driver to loosen bolts (japanese phillips head didn't know any better @ the time) but haven't used one in years but most the bikes I have or had were stored inside.
Another thing I do using SS bolts is give them a slight polish on a buffing wheel and rouge just for grins.