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Inzane 17

Starting fluid

Started by joker, Wed 22, Nov 2017, 13:18:49

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joker

Is there anywhere to shoot a shot of starting fluid to get my Valk started?
I need to get her into the shed and she won't start in cold.

Thanx.

Challenger

Be very very careful with Ether type starting fluids in a gas engine, I use WD-40 if I have to start small engines, I'm sure that you are aware of the fact that a Valk will turn over well but not start if the battery is a little weak, (not enough voltage to power the coils) Try jumping from a non running car first. Good luck!

oldsmokey

#2
Would not use starting fluid (very violent to the engine). Prefer to use a spray carb. cleaner. Location would be the other side of air cleaner element.  May be easier to warm up with a torpedo heater if available. Keep a safe distance and give it ample time to get toasty.

turtle254

Quote from: Challenger on Wed 22, Nov 2017, 13:29:20
Be very very careful with Ether type starting fluids in a gas engine, I use WD-40 if I have to start small engines, I'm sure that you are aware of the fact that a Valk will turn over well but not start if the battery is a little weak, (not enough voltage to power the coils) Try jumping from a non running car first. Good luck!
That was the old WD40 with propane as an propellant ... The new uses CO2 because of Insur. problems. Uses to be able to light it as it came out the spray nozz. Not any more!

WintrSol

If the choke isn't enough, it's probably because of Voltage sag in the battery. I have one of these, which really spin the motor fast: https://www.groupon.com/latest-deals/gg-xp2-personal-jump-starter-and-power-supply
98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service

BINOVC

And speaking of choke, some folks are not aware that the choke lever can be difficult to fully engage.  Until I figured this out I had a devil of a time getting my valk to start when it was cold outside (like 50F or lower).  The choke lever needs fairly firm pressure to get it down all the way.

da prez

  Get help to push it in. Hook up to a battery charger and do a slow charge. Better yet, remove and clean all connections and all the grounds. Cold weather and corrosion do not go together.

                                        da prez

Bighead

1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing

northernvalk

Quote from: BINOVC on Wed 22, Nov 2017, 15:54:55
And speaking of choke, some folks are not aware that the choke lever can be difficult to fully engage.  Until I figured this out I had a devil of a time getting my valk to start when it was cold outside (like 50F or lower).  The choke lever needs fairly firm pressure to get it down all the way.
this got me for sure. it moves 75% of the way with very little resistance then it takes a good push to actuate.

John Schmidt

Quote from: northernvalk on Wed 22, Nov 2017, 20:14:56
Quote from: BINOVC on Wed 22, Nov 2017, 15:54:55
And speaking of choke, some folks are not aware that the choke lever can be difficult to fully engage.  Until I figured this out I had a devil of a time getting my valk to start when it was cold outside (like 50F or lower).  The choke lever needs fairly firm pressure to get it down all the way.
this got me for sure. it moves 75% of the way with very little resistance then it takes a good push to actuate.
That's why I did this after adapting HD controls to the bike. No place to mount the OEM choke lever so devised this, works great and easier than the original. And, holds any position you put it in.

http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_18944/New%20choke%20control2.jpg

http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_18944/New%20choke%20control3.jpg

joker


Hook#3287

A new battery doesn't necessarily mean a fully charged battery.

The question is, what happens when you try to start her?

Does she turn over strong, or with a slight hesitation, or not at all?

Does she run at all?

Has she been sitting for awhile?

You should do a spark test and make sure gas is flowing correctly.

joker

 The new battery was fully charged. I left the bike alone until a warm day, and then twisted the throttle about two or three times, fully choked her, and she started right up. A little bit sluggish at first but I left her choked and then she started to run and then run rich so I took the choke off and she runs fine.Now I have her in the shed for the winter and it's going to be a complete overhaul, or as complete as I can do. I will be back with questions comments answers and some hair pulling I'm sure. Thanks everybody for your help.

cookiedough

mine started like crap when I first bought my valk I/S some 8-9+ years ago to the point I was going to sell it.  Came to this website and found out about the FULL choke pressed HARD DOWN that extra 1/2 inch.  It was in November and cold when riding so glad I figured it out since was at work and was sitting in parking lot unable to start and presto, fired it up luckily after 15-20 cranks.  That darn choke lever is hard to push down on most valks that extra 1/2 inch.  Plus, it did not help mine was a barn find sitting in storage a few years with a layer of dust pretty bad on it. 

One thing is for sure:  the more you drive these old Valks, the better they keep running.  Do not let them sit for years or even more than a few months without running them. 

WintrSol

I had the same issue with the choke - first few times I started it, it would barely run, and I had to keep a hand on the throttle. Then, I discovered the rest of the choke. I cleaned, lubed, and adjusted both banks to synchronize the choke, and lubed the cable at the grip. It is easier to reach full choke now, but still takes more effort than one should expect. Balancing the pull on the enrichment valves helped with steady running while on choke, too, much like the throttle sync.
98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service