have you had a hydrolock?

[Leathel]

Not I

but I have had leaking float valves, fortunately my petcock did its job and stopped the flow when not running but I have several black fouled plugs while running that was the tell tail (3 out of 6 cylinders)

Fitted the Pengel and Shutoff valve at the carbs in case the OEM fails.....

[nogrey]

Interesting poll.

[tech787]

I'm a coward, went with a Pingle and a Dan Marc shut off valve. I always close the Pingle if the bike will be sitting for more than a few hours

[nogrey]

I'm a coward, went with a Pingle and a Dan Marc shut off valve. I always close the Pingle if the bike will be sitting for more than a few hours

I think that is why he created this poll. He experienced hydrolock with a Pingle petcock and a Dan Marc installed.

[Fireman973]

I'm still gonna get some kind of sticker to remind me to shut off the gas.

I need one as well I've gotten up in the middle of the night to check and make sure I shut off the OEM petcock. 

[Bighead]

I'm still gonna get some kind of sticker to remind me to shut off the gas.

I need one as well I've gotten up in the middle of the night to check and make sure I shut off the OEM petcock. 

Shutting off the petcock will do no good if you have a stuck float. It takes more than one factor to cause HL.

[3W-lonerider]

211,000 miles and have yet to have a hydrock. I run a pingle set to reserve all the time and a electric fuel shutoff mounted right inside the left engine cover. I've never had the carbs out of the bike. Replaced the 35 slow jets with 38 probably 15 years ago. One thing I've always considered is. Mine is a trike and my carbs sit level all the time instead of being leaned over when parked. That might make some difference.

[nogrey]

211,000 miles and have yet to have a hydrock. I run a pingle set to reserve all the time and a electric fuel shutoff mounted right inside the left engine cover. I've never had the carbs out of the bike. Replaced the 35 slow jets with 38 probably 15 years ago. One thing I've always considered is. Mine is a trike and my carbs sit level all the time instead of being leaned over when parked. That might make some difference.

Over 200K miles and over 15 years. Just my experience, but vehicles in general seem to work better when they are used and don't sit. Sounds like yours gets to see the road quite a bit. That's wonderful!

[Avanti]

No hydrolock.

1999 Interstate with electric shut off.
Every night and most parking lots on center stand. Fuel additive used regularly. 

[Valkpilot]

Almost identical results from 8 years ago:

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,35281.0.html

[MnM Valk 97]

Yes. Two years ago bought a '97 Tourer with about 32K miles. Ran, but not smooth at first. Several tanks of cleaner later it was getting better and better all the time.

Had hydrolock at home with no damage (apparently). Pulled #4 plug and shot a LOT of fuel across the garage. Disassembled & inspected the petcock - rubber looked fine, and didn't seem to leak by. Promised to look at the carbs in the coming winter. Thought I had it licked.

Rode it several hundred miles with no recurrence... until we were 200 miles from home. Stopped for 20 minutes or so to wait out a rain storm (petcock on), when - CRUNCH! - broke it.

Fast forward over a year; engine pull, new rear case, some starter gears, new float needles, and a K&L petcock rebuild kit. Not to mention an endless parade of FedUPS trucks delivering new bits of chrome ("since I was in there anyway"). Petcock initially didn't seem to leak. Got a few test idles and tuneup in the garage, but waiting for winter to break before a test ride.

THEN it almost happened AGAIN. Fiddling around with TLC stuff when I discovered fuel dripping from #4 again (on the center stand while still in the recovery room). Intake was full of gas, and about a cup or so had intruded into the oil, based on my best guess of the higher oil level. Petcock was On, tempting fate in the safety of my own garage for peace of mind.

Did numerous tests of the petcock, On, Off, & Reserve, and cleaned the tank just to be sure I didn't have a spec of debris. Turns out the OEM petcock leaked EVEN when OFF! That was confirmed several times (with the outlet hose disconnected, thank you very much), making absolutely sure it was in the Off detent. Slow drip in the Off position. By then it had had gas for several weeks, so it wasn't just a dry o-ring.

I'm not sure how it's constructed, but it seems like it must be getting by a seal on the stem of the valve lever? Since it's closed up with those rivets, I haven't bothered to open it (yet) to see whats going on. I replaced it with an aftermarket petcock. (And yes, I changed the 0 mile oil, for those of you worried.)

It's had several (apprehensive) starts since then, and one glorious test ride.  I keep a trickle charger on it, and bump the starter once in a while before firing it up every few weeks. So far so good.

Next winter I will likely check/change the floats. They were a little out of spec, but since they aren't technically adjustable, I decided to try the lighter method to get just a little tweak on a couple of them. Curious to see if they drift back out of spec.

Hopefully this chapter is over, and I can move on to actually riding this awesome machine.


TL/DR: Had hydrolock with damage, and fuel leak by with a rebuilt OEM petcock turned OFF.

[nogrey]

Yes. Two years ago bought a '97 Tourer with about 32K miles. Ran, but not smooth at first. Several tanks of cleaner later it was getting better and better all the time.

Had hydrolock at home with no damage (apparently). Pulled #4 plug and shot a LOT of fuel across the garage. Disassembled & inspected the petcock - rubber looked fine, and didn't seem to leak by. Promised to look at the carbs in the coming winter. Thought I had it licked.

Rode it several hundred miles with no recurrence... until we were 200 miles from home. Stopped for 20 minutes or so to wait out a rain storm (petcock on), when - CRUNCH! - broke it.

Fast forward over a year; engine pull, new rear case, some starter gears, new float needles, and a K&L petcock rebuild kit. Not to mention an endless parade of FedUPS trucks delivering new bits of chrome ("since I was in there anyway"). Petcock initially didn't seem to leak. Got a few test idles and tuneup in the garage, but waiting for winter to break before a test ride.

THEN it almost happened AGAIN. Fiddling around with TLC stuff when I discovered fuel dripping from #4 again (on the center stand while still in the recovery room). Intake was full of gas, and about a cup or so had intruded into the oil, based on my best guess of the higher oil level. Petcock was On, tempting fate in the safety of my own garage for peace of mind.

Did numerous tests of the petcock, On, Off, & Reserve, and cleaned the tank just to be sure I didn't have a spec of debris. Turns out the OEM petcock leaked EVEN when OFF! That was confirmed several times (with the outlet hose disconnected, thank you very much), making absolutely sure it was in the Off detent. Slow drip in the Off position. By then it had had gas for several weeks, so it wasn't just a dry o-ring.

I'm not sure how it's constructed, but it seems like it must be getting by a seal on the stem of the valve lever? Since it's closed up with those rivets, I haven't bothered to open it (yet) to see whats going on. I replaced it with an aftermarket petcock. (And yes, I changed the 0 mile oil, for those of you worried.)

It's had several (apprehensive) starts since then, and one glorious test ride.  I keep a trickle charger on it, and bump the starter once in a while before firing it up every few weeks. So far so good.

Next winter I will likely check/change the floats. They were a little out of spec, but since they aren't technically adjustable, I decided to try the lighter method to get just a little tweak on a couple of them. Curious to see if they drift back out of spec.

Hopefully this chapter is over, and I can move on to actually riding this awesome machine.


TL/DR: Had hydrolock with damage, and fuel leak by with a rebuilt OEM petcock turned OFF.

Petcock has two sides, a rebuildable side and a non-rebuildable side that is riveted together. It has one Gasket sealing the outer shell and two factory pressed seals that seal against the ball. Two orifices. Those can not be rebuilt. I used to rebuild the petcocks, but now just replace them. If you had a leaky petcock, you also had a failed float valve in number 4. Float valves are cheap ($9 ea) so just replace them. Get them from "Jet'sRus". They sell the same kehien part as the OEM for much less.

[gordon]

Not yet_2 bikes and always shut the fuel off and test fuel petcock regularly.

[Jess from VA]

No, but I had a hernia. 

(at age 4 if that counts, and they cut and re-plumbed me too)

[pancho]

Thanks Mark. Just wondering, Is there enough room to install the Dab Marc if you don't desmog?

There certainly is,, here is how I mounted the fuel valve with the secondary air supply system intact and working. This was just a fit out of components, but I did use the fuel line bent around like that.  If I was to do it again, I would bend a piece of 3/8 tubing and use that...... the fuel line has not collapsed yet,, I don't expect it to.



If doing it this way, pay attention to support the fuel lines so there is no interference with the carburetor linkage between the two banks.

[nogrey]

No, but I had a hernia. 

(at age 4 if that counts, and they cut and re-plumbed me too)

Thanks for sharing......so how's YOUR float valve working? 

[Avanti]

Thanks Mark. Just wondering, Is there enough room to install the Dab Marc if you don't desmog?

There certainly is,, here is how I mounted the fuel valve with the secondary air supply system intact and working. This was just a fit out of components, but I did use the fuel line bent around like that.  If I was to do it again, I would bend a piece of 3/8 tubing and use that...... the fuel line has not collapsed yet,, I don't expect it to.



If doing it this way, pay attention to support the fuel lines so there is no interference with the carburetor linkage between the two banks.

It might be the angle of the picture, but the "T" looks lower than the left fuel rail.

[Jess from VA]

No, but I had a hernia. 

(at age 4 if that counts, and they cut and re-plumbed me too)

Thanks for sharing......so how's YOUR float valve working? 

You know, it worked much better at 4, than it does at 66.  Thanks for asking.   

[pancho]

It might be the angle of the picture, but the "T" looks lower than the left fuel rail.


It might be Avanti, not sure...  it does flow properly and has not given me anything except additional peace whenever the dreaded hydrolock issue comes up. (wonder how it became "hydrolock", and not fuel lock?) I do want to add an obscure button and latch for the power supply, (Idea from MarkT) just to trick it out.

[nogrey]

It might be the angle of the picture, but the "T" looks lower than the left fuel rail.


It might be Avanti, not sure...  it does flow properly and has not given me anything except additional peace whenever the dreaded hydrolock issue comes up. (wonder how it became "hydrolock", and not fuel lock?) I do want to add an obscure button and latch for the power supply, (Idea from MarkT) just to trick it out.

You may want to read the whole thread. The peace you are experiencing might be a false peace. The origin of this poll was because the author had an electric fuel shutoff, as well as a pingle petcock, yet experienced hydrolock.

[pancho]

Actually I have read the entire post nogray, his experience, while sad for him, does not cause any concern for me. All I can say to that is his fuel valve must have been stuck open with debris, faulty or a fracture in the fuel line or delivery system. Without air flow there will be no fuel flow with a closed off fuel line.

[turtle254]

Pancho ... Your routing is causing a high point  that will not clear back to gas tank .
This has always caused problems, that loop is your problem(tee is higher on outlet side)! This is a built in air lock that will cause gas starvation at some point down the road.

[MarkT]

Pancho ... Your routing is causing a high point  that will not clear back to gas tank .
This has always caused problems, that loop is your problem(tee is higher on outlet side)! This is a built in air lock that will cause gas starvation at some point down the road.

I had a starving problem caused by trying to use a looping route too.

That looping routing would be unnecessary if he replaced the plastic T with a brass one with screw-in connections.  He could then connect it closely to the Dan-Marc (I don't recognize that solenoid) instead of using barb fittings on both. Like this.

[nogrey]

Actually I have read the entire post nogray, his experience, while sad for him, does not cause any concern for me. All I can say to that is his fuel valve must have been stuck open with debris, faulty or a fracture in the fuel line or delivery system. Without air flow there will be no fuel flow with a closed off fuel line.

Did you see where he tested his fuel valve and found no issues? Just something to consider: if you review page 5-7 of the shop manual, you can see the two vent lines that direct air flow to the carburetors. The float bowls are vented to atmosphere. Most carburetors will have a vent tube that acts as a "port" to the fuel bowl; this "port" provides the carburetor with pressure from it's ambient surroundings and forces the fuel to move through the metering passages as required based on engine demand. Add to this the fact that Valkyrie carburetors are semi-down draft carbs (meaning the air intake is pointed upward and the fuel air mix is pointed down) an overflow condition in the float bowl has only one place to go. Down.
Don't take my word for it. It's how carbs like these work. This can be easily verified by a quick search on carburetor vents.

[turtle254]

Pancho ... Your routing is causing a high point  that will not clear back to gas tank .
This has always caused problems, that loop is your problem(tee is higher on outlet side)! This is a built in air lock that will cause gas starvation at some point down the road.

I had a starving problem caused by trying to use a looping route too.

That looping routing would be unnecessary if he replaced the plastic T with a brass one with screw-in connections.  He could then connect it closely to the Dan-Marc (I don't recognize that solenoid) instead of using barb fittings on both. Like this.

A better valve design
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-Motorized-Ball-Valve-Brass-9-V-12-to-24-VDC-VAC-2-wire-N-C-Normally-Closed/301651165722?hash=item463bcf821a:g:tP4AAOSwrklVW15H:sc:USPSPriority!77351!US!-1

[Gavin_Sons]

Actually I have read the entire post nogray, his experience, while sad for him, does not cause any concern for me. All I can say to that is his fuel valve must have been stuck open with debris, faulty or a fracture in the fuel line or delivery system. Without air flow there will be no fuel flow with a closed off fuel line.

You would be completely wrong. At some point you have to turn the gas on to start the bike. I always run my bowls near empty when i put it in the garage. Usually turn the gas off a mile or so before i get to my driveway. So my bike will never start without turning the gas on first. Nothing wrong with my fuel system except the stuck float and float valve. I was just like you, didn't believe anything i was told until it happened to me. I hope it never happens to you. But incase it does, i have all the specialty tools to fix the bike after you break gears i'll rent to you. 

[pancho]

Whew,,,,,          Now I understand Jesses comments better. 

[MarkT]

Pancho ... Your routing is causing a high point  that will not clear back to gas tank .
This has always caused problems, that loop is your problem(tee is higher on outlet side)! This is a built in air lock that will cause gas starvation at some point down the road.

I had a starving problem caused by trying to use a looping route too.

That looping routing would be unnecessary if he replaced the plastic T with a brass one with screw-in connections.  He could then connect it closely to the Dan-Marc (I don't recognize that solenoid) instead of using barb fittings on both. Like this.

A better valve design
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-Motorized-Ball-Valve-Brass-9-V-12-to-24-VDC-VAC-2-wire-N-C-Normally-Closed/301651165722?hash=item463bcf821a:g:tP4AAOSwrklVW15H:sc:USPSPriority!77351!US!-1

Specs look good on this valve.  I've bought from Echotech before.  I don't recall the result.  I had a brass valve that leaked.  And a SS one with inside gaskets of Viton which works even now.  Useless comment unless I search for my result with them.  I saved your link and the page in case I need it.

[turtle254]

Pancho ... Your routing is causing a high point  that will not clear back to gas tank .
This has always caused problems, that loop is your problem(tee is higher on outlet side)! This is a built in air lock that will cause gas starvation at some point down the road.

I had a starving problem caused by trying to use a looping route too.

That looping routing would be unnecessary if he replaced the plastic T with a brass one with screw-in connections.  He could then connect it closely to the Dan-Marc (I don't recognize that solenoid) instead of using barb fittings on both. Like this.

A better valve design
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-Motorized-Ball-Valve-Brass-9-V-12-to-24-VDC-VAC-2-wire-N-C-Normally-Closed/301651165722?hash=item463bcf821a:g:tP4AAOSwrklVW15H:sc:USPSPriority!77351!US!-1

Specs look good on this valve.  I've bought from Echotech before.  I don't recall the result.  I had a brass valve that leaked.  And a SS one with inside gaskets of Viton which works even now.  Useless comment unless I search for my result with them.  I saved your link and the page in case I need it.

See you at Inzane

[JimC]

A better valve design
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-Motorized-Ball-Valve-Brass-9-V-12-to-24-VDC-VAC-2-wire-N-C-Normally-Closed/301651165722?hash=item463bcf821a:g:tP4AAOSwrklVW15H:sc:USPSPriority!77351!US!-1

I recently installed a AFC 121 on my Valk. I looked at valves like that, (probably even that one) I really liked the wide open orifice, but some of valves of that type had a disclaimer about not using it for long periods of time (like 8 hrs) so I thought I would use the tried and tested AFC valve.

One thing I will mention about the valve linked to, is the physical size, 4 X 2 1/2 inches, it is considerably larger than the 2.70 X 1.5 inch one I used. I question whether that one can be mounted while still keeping the fuel flow running down hill?

If someone uses one, please report back on how the installation went and how it worked out. I'm al;ways willing to try something outside the box.

Jim

[nogrey]

Actually I have read the entire post nogray, his experience, while sad for him, does not cause any concern for me. All I can say to that is his fuel valve must have been stuck open with debris, faulty or a fracture in the fuel line or delivery system. Without air flow there will be no fuel flow with a closed off fuel line.

You would be completely wrong. At some point you have to turn the gas on to start the bike. I always run my bowls near empty when i put it in the garage. Usually turn the gas off a mile or so before i get to my driveway. So my bike will never start without turning the gas on first. Nothing wrong with my fuel system except the stuck float and float valve. I was just like you, didn't believe anything i was told until it happened to me. I hope it never happens to you. But incase it does, i have all the specialty tools to fix the bike after you break gears i'll rent to you.  

Hopefully your poll and this discussion has brought some awareness to the true nature of hydrolock. Fuel shutoffs are just another added thing to go wrong and provide zero deterrent against hydrolock.

[turtle254]

A better valve design
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-Motorized-Ball-Valve-Brass-9-V-12-to-24-VDC-VAC-2-wire-N-C-Normally-Closed/301651165722?hash=item463bcf821a:g:tP4AAOSwrklVW15H:sc:USPSPriority!77351!US!-1

I recently installed a AFC 121 on my Valk. I looked at valves like that, (probably even that one) I really liked the wide open orifice, but some of valves of that type had a disclaimer about not using it for long periods of time (like 8 hrs) so I thought I would use the tried and tested AFC valve.

One thing I will mention about the valve linked to, is the physical size, 4 X 2 1/2 inches, it is considerably larger than the 2.70 X 1.5 inch one I used. I question whether that one can be mounted while still keeping the fuel flow running down hill?

If someone uses one, please report back on how the installation went and how it worked out. I'm al;ways willing to try something outside the box.

Jim

The 8 hrs is for a solenoid valve not the motor operated ball valve!
No amps used after either open/closed operation
No heat built up like solenoid valve
Full port open

Your dim. are for a 1/4" not 3/8" and on the small size for 1/4". Solenoid valves gets really hot after awhile.

[MnM Valk 97]

Yes. Two years ago bought a '97 Tourer with about 32K miles. Ran, but not smooth at first. Several tanks of cleaner later it was getting better and better all the time.

Had hydrolock at home with no damage (apparently). Pulled #4 plug and shot a LOT of fuel across the garage. Disassembled & inspected the petcock - rubber looked fine, and didn't seem to leak by. Promised to look at the carbs in the coming winter. Thought I had it licked.

Rode it several hundred miles with no recurrence... until we were 200 miles from home. Stopped for 20 minutes or so to wait out a rain storm (petcock on), when - CRUNCH! - broke it.

Fast forward over a year; engine pull, new rear case, some starter gears, new float needles, and a K&L petcock rebuild kit. Not to mention an endless parade of FedUPS trucks delivering new bits of chrome ("since I was in there anyway"). Petcock initially didn't seem to leak. Got a few test idles and tuneup in the garage, but waiting for winter to break before a test ride.

THEN it almost happened AGAIN. Fiddling around with TLC stuff when I discovered fuel dripping from #4 again (on the center stand while still in the recovery room). Intake was full of gas, and about a cup or so had intruded into the oil, based on my best guess of the higher oil level. Petcock was On, tempting fate in the safety of my own garage for peace of mind.

Did numerous tests of the petcock, On, Off, & Reserve, and cleaned the tank just to be sure I didn't have a spec of debris. Turns out the OEM petcock leaked EVEN when OFF! That was confirmed several times (with the outlet hose disconnected, thank you very much), making absolutely sure it was in the Off detent. Slow drip in the Off position. By then it had had gas for several weeks, so it wasn't just a dry o-ring.

I'm not sure how it's constructed, but it seems like it must be getting by a seal on the stem of the valve lever? Since it's closed up with those rivets, I haven't bothered to open it (yet) to see whats going on. I replaced it with an aftermarket petcock. (And yes, I changed the 0 mile oil, for those of you worried.)

It's had several (apprehensive) starts since then, and one glorious test ride.  I keep a trickle charger on it, and bump the starter once in a while before firing it up every few weeks. So far so good.

Next winter I will likely check/change the floats. They were a little out of spec, but since they aren't technically adjustable, I decided to try the lighter method to get just a little tweak on a couple of them. Curious to see if they drift back out of spec.

Hopefully this chapter is over, and I can move on to actually riding this awesome machine.


TL/DR: Had hydrolock with damage, and fuel leak by with a rebuilt OEM petcock turned OFF.

Petcock has two sides, a rebuildable side and a non-rebuildable side that is riveted together. It has one Gasket sealing the outer shell and two factory pressed seals that seal against the ball. Two orifices. Those can not be rebuilt. I used to rebuild the petcocks, but now just replace them. If you had a leaky petcock, you also had a failed float valve in number 4. Float valves are cheap ($9 ea) so just replace them. Get them from "Jet'sRus". They sell the same kehien part as the OEM for much less.

Nogrey, that filling manifold/leaking petcock issue was with new float needles installed, a pretty deep carb cleaning, and petcock overhaul. Makes me think it's a droopy float along with the internal petcock leak. (Hopefully I make it thru the summer. If not, I can jump on the '14 instead.