Any Easy Way to Change The Headlight Bulb on The I/S

[mhallock]

As I recall, last time I removed the inside panel of the fairing....you know, the endless spinning if the anchors that hold it on....Thanks in advance for any tips....

Mark

[Bighead]

Yes turn handlebars and reach in no need to remove anything other than the bulb. I can do it with my big ol meathooks....

[mhallock]

Thanks Big....how simple!!

Mark

[Bighead]

You will be working blind but YOU CAN DO IT!

[Jess from VA]

This always gives me trouble.

(With the bars turned) working from the rear, I can look in and see the back end of the bulbs/covers/plugs, or reach in to work and not see, but not both.

When I watched Big BF do it, he sat on a chair in front of the fairing, and reached under and around to do the job blind.  He is a lot faster at it than I am.  

Over the years, after new bulbs are in for a year or two, I start to lose one or the other dim intermittently, but (with the bike running) when I whack the clear plastic IS light housing with the flat of my hand smartly, it comes back on.  

On a recent ride in Roanoke, Joe May (next ahead of me) told me I was having one come on then off, all afternoon. (Yep right on time, about two years from new bulbs going in.)

The bulb is obviously not burnt out yet (on low beam), but the connection in there is not the tightest or cleanest it could be.  This irritates me.  

You never want to handle these bulbs with bare fingers, your greasy/moist fingers can etch the bulb glass when they heat up (Nitrite gloves are good).

I just keep whacking the light cover until it finally never comes on anymore (very scientific).

Every time Big Bill comes over, I get him to stick in two new bulbs (whether I need them or not).  But about 2 years later, one or the other starts not coming on until it gets whacked (maybe for another couple years before it's permanently off).

I have the little keeper D rings designed to add to automotive H4 Halogen bulbs after the two tabs are broken off (rather than the more expensive OE 45/45 Honda bulbs), but I never use them anymore.... it just took me longer to get them all lined up than the bulbs alone, and they go in straight without the rings.  But this may be part of the reason I get a loose connection after a couple years, every single time.

They can be had from Electrical Connection company.


https://electricalconnection.com/index.php/product/h4-bulb-alignment-shims/

They just make the job harder.

[Bighead]

I use automotive blubs and didnt cut any tabs off ......just took a pair of needlenose pliers and bent the one that dont fit back *90 and all has been good for three years now

[Jess from VA]

Maybe that's the trick for a tighter fit.

I can't remember if you have to bend/break off one or two tabs on H4s to fit the fairing.

I guess it's two.  http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/interstateheadlight.htm

[Bighead]

I think i only bent one back but then again I has been 3 yrs

[old2soon]

Look at the 4 bolts that actually hold the fairing in place. 2 are slotted and 2 are not. Loosen all 4. Roll fairing forward tighten the 2 that are not slotted. That bit of room you gain helps Tremendously!  Let me know how dat werx out fer ya. RIDE SAFE.

[Bighead]

Look at the 4 bolts that actually hold the fairing in place. 2 are slotted and 2 are not. Loosen all 4. Roll fairing forward tighten the 2 that are not slotted. That bit of room you gain helps Tremendously!  Let me know how dat werx out fer ya. RIDE SAFE.

Can have them changed in the time it take to loosen and tighten those bolts...just sayin..not tryin to get in a pissin match but pretty easy once you figure it out.

[old2soon]

Look at the 4 bolts that actually hold the fairing in place. 2 are slotted and 2 are not. Loosen all 4. Roll fairing forward tighten the 2 that are not slotted. That bit of room you gain helps Tremendously!  Let me know how dat werx out fer ya. RIDE SAFE.

Can have them changed in the time it take to loosen and tighten those bolts...just sayin..not tryin to get in a pissin match but pretty easy once you figure it out.

In my case anywho the ritis makes things bit more difficult then they were even 6 or 7 year ago. No kinda match atall. Just sharin some good stuff what werx fer me!  RIDE SAFE.

[Ramie]

The hardest part when I replaced mine was getting the connector loose.

[Valkorado]

Turn bars, put face right up to tank, and wear a hands free headlight.  You can actually see what you're doing, big help!  And when you change 'em, these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Philips-G7-H4-HB2-9003-8000lm-LED-Headlight-Hi-Lo-Beam-Conversion-Kit-Bulbs/323209255650?epid=7003967324&hash=item4b40c5dae2:g:blQAAOSwvjdZU0ih

are by far the best bulbs I have used for Interstate application.  Lots of trial and error to find them.  The beam is adjustable and when tweaked right they mimic a halogen closer than anything I have used.  Bright is an understatement with two bulbs.  They're fanless, and the cooling fins detach for easy installation and reattach behind the OEM dust cover.  These are awesome bulbs!  Beware, there are other Lumiled bulbs that look very similar, but are not adjustable.

[Jess from VA]

So no breaking off tabs?

They go right in? (and stick fins back on back after in) (and fins do not inhibit sticking the clamp/rubber cover back on the backside?)

How (much) did you adjust them after install (how do they adjust)?

I'm very happy with my H4 Hella 80-100s, but would be happy to have less draw LEDs.

[Valkorado]

So no breaking off tabs?

They go right in? (and stick fins back on back after in) (and fins do not inhibit sticking the clamp/rubber cover back on the backside?)

How (much) did you adjust them after install (how do they adjust)?

I'm very happy with my H4 Hella 80-100s, but would be happy to have less draw LEDs.

I did break off the lower tabs, not sure if I could have got away with just snapping off just one but they don't seem to bother oncomers, I've never been flashed.  They go right in, unscrew the cooling fins and install the dust cover, then screw the fins back in narrow side in front (they can screw in either way).  They actually help keep the dust cover in tight!  The bulbs adjust with two tiny Allen screws on each bulb at the base (comes with tiny Allen wrench) and while mine were close when I got them they needed some fine tuning.  I have the beams set just like OEM, except when I hit hi beam it's Katy Bar the Door!  Might as well be broad daylight.

Make sure you buy the adjustable ones

[Jess from VA]

Thanks. 

[mhallock]

Bulb is in!!!  Thanks for all the input.....and yes Ramie, the hardest part was getting the connector off!!

Bighead, you saved me a lot of grief....

Jess from VA, the tutorial with photos was a great help.  You guys are the best!! 

Mark

[Bighead]