Vibration Issue

[Mike R]

Feel a vibration when at highway speeds only when going straight. I feel it through the seat, nothing from the handlebars. Vibration not felt with sweeping turns, left or right.
Would my guess of wheel bearings be correct?

[sandy]

My suggestion is it's in the drive train. Pull the drive unit and check the drive shaft and input cup. The wheel bearings have vibes when leaned over. 
.

[Bighead]

My suggestion is it's in the drive train. Pull the drive unit and check the drive shaft and input cup. The wheel bearings have vibes when leaned over. 
.

+1.    Unless the whell bearings are way past toast. I cant say it was a vibration but when I had the rear wheel bearing go out on a tril at first only heard a pop pop pop when at low speed in a right turn. By the time I got to Bobs aka attic rat. It made a noise with every revolution of the wheel. But no vibration.

[pancho]

That sort of describes what mine felt like when the U-joint failed. When removed, I could feel no play in it,  mounted in a vice and wiggling with channel locks, but a new one fixed the vibration.

[h13man]

My suggestion is it's in the drive train. Pull the drive unit and check the drive shaft and input cup. The wheel bearings have vibes when leaned over. 
.

Felt mine mostly thru the seat straight up with a light 90lb. passenger load.

[SCain]

That sort of describes what mine felt like when the U-joint failed. When removed, I could feel no play in it,  mounted in a vice and wiggling with channel locks, but a new one fixed the vibration.

Check that u-joint, also what rear tire are you running and what balancing method are you using? Just some things to check that can cause a vibration you mentioned.

[Mike R]

Looks like I'll be looking for a new U-Joint.......I'll service the final drive and replace the U-Joint while I'm at it.

[old2soon]

That sort of describes what mine felt like when the U-joint failed. When removed, I could feel no play in it,  mounted in a vice and wiggling with channel locks, but a new one fixed the vibration.

THIS!  Been there done that got the T-shirt.  RIDE SAFE.

[gordonv]

Looks like I'll be looking for a new U-Joint.......I'll service the final drive and replace the U-Joint while I'm at it.

Have you verified what the problem is, or just planing on what might need doing?

[mdalbert]

That sounds exactly like my ujoint when it was going out.  I had to rent an Enterprise pickup and haul it from some small town in Indiana to Norman, OK.  Shawnee Honda had me going in a couple days with a heavier duty trike ujoint.

[hubcapsc]

a heavier duty trike ujoint.

Never heard of anything like that. A few years ago Honda ran out of 1500-wing/1500-valkyrie u-joints,
and everyone who needed one was screwed for a few months until more were made.

Any more info on the trike u-joint?

-Mike

[Chrisj CMA]

I have heard a couple times that some year Honda CRV or something may use the same u-joint as the Valkyrie. I have never heard of a heavy duty trike u-joint. There sure isn't much more room in there for anything bigger

[pais]

I have heard a couple times that some year Honda CRV or something may use the same u-joint as the Valkyrie. I have never heard of a heavy duty trike u-joint. There sure isn't much more room in there for anything bigger

  I owned a 2000 CRV. When the u-joint went bad it made the whole car shake. Supposedly replacing the entire shaft was the only answer. Answer was it just took a bigger hammer to pound out old u-joint. Memory serves me, at the time a u-joint from a Suzuki quad fit like a glove. $22.00 Repair instead of I believe $600.00.

[RWhitehouse]

A up/down vibration felt in the seat (that varies with speed, and not noticeable at lower speeds) probably means you lost a wheel weight on the rear wheel.

More of a "buzz" that is felt more or less constantly I'd agree the u-joint is a strong candidate. You won't feel wheel bearings unless they are seriously dickered and literally about to come apart, and if so you tend to notice it more during cornering or riding 2-up when the load on the bearing is higher.

As the u-joint is starting to age (not bad yet per se, but likely on it's way) you might notice a bit of that buzz at elevated speeds. My valk would get a little driveline vibration north of about 110mph but was perfect anything under. I ran it like that for like 10k miles to no additional ill effect, but after swapping the joint that also went away.

[Paladin528]

  I owned a 2000 CRV. When the u-joint went bad it made the whole car shake. Supposedly replacing the entire shaft was the only answer. Answer was it just took a bigger hammer to pound out old u-joint. Memory serves me, at the time a u-joint from a Suzuki quad fit like a glove. $22.00 Repair instead of I believe $600.00.
[/quote]

Had the same vehicle with the same issue.  I found a drive line shop and took it to them and they rebuilt it for $150.  Honda wanted a fortune for a new prop shaft.  Why they do this is beyond me.  Just make the cursed thing servicable.