'98 Valk right side not firing "Solved"

[itsblue]

Problem solved. Started to take carbs apart and turns out all 3 slow jets on right side were not screwed in. Previous owner i guess forgot to tighten them down. Went ahead and cleaned all 6 up and running good now. Now final drive, coolant, clutch/brake fluid, etc.

So I have another Valkyrie after 20 years or so. Bought this knowing it wasn't running right and figured probably a carb issue now thinking timing/electrical maybe. 1-3-5 cylinders firing and getting fuel but not burning just dumping fuel out right side exhaust. Plug wires are routed correct and plenty of spark at each plug. It seems like timing is off on just these 1-3-5 cylinders. 2-4-6 running good. Valves are adjusted correct. Carbs are not leaking. Compression ranges from 120-130psi with a little wd-40 squirted into each cylinder. Seems unlikely that timing jumped just on 1-3-5 but idk. #1 is at tdc with intake and exhaust valves loose when supposed to be according to timing plate. Only thing I can think off is the trigger for 1-3-5 is somehow out of wack not sure just how that works. Like I said lots of spark but seems like it is happening at the wrong time on the right side. I don't see any missing teeth on timing belts. I suspected the black/white coil wires but seems like there wouldn't be any spark at all if they were the problem. Any ideas are appreciated. In the meantime I'm going to double check timing marks when I have a chance. Tried to share pics with photostash but it won't let me log in.

[itsblue]

After looking closely at timing marks noticed that the 1/2 tdc mark on crankshaft pulley plate didn't quite match up with the mark on rear pulley. Took the front pulley off and found that the alignment dimple of timing mark plate wasn't seated in the recess hole of pulley. Fixed that so now front matches up with rear pulley. Double checked cam gear timing marks and started it up but still same problem. At least now I know this has a 6 degree trigger wheel. Does anyone know if these 6 degree wheels cause problems. Also which ignition pulse generator is for 1-3-5 cylinders, do these ever get misaligned or somehow become defective? I don't think the trigger wheel is at fault its just a stamped piece of metal. I guess next it to pull right side cam pulley and see if its somehow shifted but seems doubtful.

[itsblue]

After taking a break so I could think more clearly I'm gonna go back to basics and rebuild carbs which I didn't do to begin with as they're getting fuel. It does seem like #5 is flooding and 1-3 seem kind of dry. Really shouldn't take shortcuts on an unknown machine I reckon.

[The emperor has no clothes]

It's very seldom these bikes have ignition problems. It's pretty common for there to be carb problems after sitting for a while.

[gordonv]

I'm just a little confused on your post.

You posted solved, but then went onto a second issue with the bike? Would be a little clearer to have one thread for each separate issue. So you had a fuel issue which is now solved. And now you are working on the timing issue.

As for pictures, go to postimage.org , set up an account, UL pictures, then the share button and the link second from the bottom, copy and paste that into your post. Picture should show up.


As for you bike, I don't know which one you have std/tourer or an IS. About 99% on these bikes are interchangeable and the same, there is a couple of things that are different, and we need to know, like in your case with the trigger wheel.

The IS has a different ICM (ignition control module) and build in digital "degree wheel". I've not followed close enough on a trigger wheel for the IS, but you can have a difference.

After looking closely at timing marks noticed that the 1/2 tdc mark on crankshaft pulley plate didn't quite match up with the mark on rear pulley. Took the front pulley off and found that the alignment dimple of timing mark plate wasn't seated in the recess hole of pulley. Fixed that so now front matches up with rear pulley. Double checked cam gear timing marks and started it up but still same problem.

I don't know if it's me or my brain thingy isn't working right. You talk about front and rear pulley, but I think you are talking about the pulleys at the front of the engine, so how is there a front/rear? Without pics or proper terms, I'm confused  but this won't be the first for me.  tough getting older sometimes, making excuses.

[itsblue]

It is a tourer. I'll get around to your picture suggestion cause yes a picture is worth a lot of words. The pulleys I'm talking about are the crank pulleys. Front pulley for 1-3-5 cam has a plate on top with the timing marks, rear pulley for 2-4-6 cam has just the arrow. When checking my timing I noticed the front plate and the rear arrow were not aligned the same. Took the front crank pulley off and the alignment dimple in the plate that goes into the small hole in the pulley was just flat so really the front plate could be spun around to any location. I fixed that and now front and rear marks match. My timing is correct now and I'm not sure if it was ever really wrong since just the front plate made it look like timing was wrong. The real problem was the slow jets not being screwed in on 1-3-5 carbs. I mistakenly "thought" I had a timing issue because there was plenty of spark at these cylinders and fuel was coming out of the exhaust, so much fuel that it was drowning the spark plugs I guess. This is a new to me bike so I'm going thru everything. Final drive apart now and looks okay.

[gordonv]

I think you are talking about the drive shaft pulleys, that have a gear for the left and another for the right cam belts? So this would have a front and rear. Makes sense.

[itsblue]

Yes that's it I figured it was crankshaft
If I did this right there should be picture of drive splines below.

https://i.postimg.cc/KYrkmscV/IMG-20210404-150108.jpg

More picture testing:




Thrust washer missing but don't see any damage here or on the wheel.

Thanks for the Postimages suggestion!

[The emperor has no clothes]

Yes that's it I figured it was crankshaft
If I did this right there should be picture of drive splines below.

https://i.postimg.cc/KYrkmscV/IMG-20210404-150108.jpg

More picture testing:




Thrust washer missing but don't see any damage here or on the wheel.

Thanks for the Postimages suggestion!

The thrust washer is likely stuck in the hub with grease. It doesn't take long for damage if it's missing.

[itsblue]

Thanks I'll double check.

[gordonv]

What's really strange, the GW GL1500 has no thrust washer. Or at least those riders I know, now nothing about them. Also the rear end service, rarely done on a GW.

[pancho]

What's really strange, the GW GL1500 has no thrust washer. Or at least those riders I know, now nothing about them. Also the rear end service, rarely done on a GW.

Looking at parts diagrams, this appears to be true,,, the GW uses the same flange and has dampers, I wonder if the wheel has a steel insert or if the clearances are different.. I know it's true as said that it doesn't take long on a Valkyrie to severely damage the wheel. I'd like to examine a GW wheel.

[indybobm]

Actually, the Goldwing 1500 does have a thrust washer. Item #7 on the rear wheel fiche.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/1998/gl1500a-a-gold-wing-aspencade/rear-wheel