grinding in transmission coupled with no resistance on clutch?

[upjeeper]

This morning after about 3 hours of fighting with the breather box and other misc problems under the tank I got my bike fired up. It took a bit to get the nasty old gas out of the carbs (i did drain techron into, let it set then out of the carbs). The bike runs pretty nicely when in neutral.

So I did the next natural thing, I squeezed the clutch level and shifted into first. The green neutral indicator light went off but there was a horrible grinding sound like the gears were trying to mesh together but could not. I've never worked on a hydraulic clutch before.

The clutch level has little to no resistance when squeezing. I've already a clutch level bushing on order from bike bandit, should be here in a few days.

Any suggestions?

Thanks much.

[Super Santa]

Check the site glass on the clutch reservoir and see if there is anything showing.

[upjeeper]

Check the site glass on the clutch reservoir and see if there is anything showing.

yup, fluid is showing. I just checked.

[Ratdog]

Hmmm... got a bad feelin'.  Might find uglies in the clutch basket... like rivets which've let loose.

[Skinhead]

1- engine off, put bike in gear and try to move it.  Should not move.

2- Squeeze clutch lever fully and try to move bike (still in gear) - should move, if not either the clutch master or slave cylinder is bad, or there is a lot of air in the system.  (I assumed you had checked the fluid level and the master cylinder reservoir is full)

[Jeff K]

What happens when you try to start the bike in gear?

[upjeeper]

1. bike does not seem to want to shift into different gears

2. put the bike into first gear and move forward with the engine off, grinding noise, doesn't move easily

3. put the bike info first gear while holding clutch lever in and move forward with the engine off, grinding noise, doesn't move easily. Same as with clutch lever out (hands off).

4. try to start the bike in first gear clutch lever out (hands off) nothing

5. try to start the bike in first gear squeezing clutch lever in horrible grinding noise.



ok, so my first action will be to bleed the clutch cylinder and flush the fluid. if no change then what?

would it be worth getting a master rebuild kit? how do I determine is the master needs to be rebuilt?

[Ratdog]

ok, so my first action will be to bleed the clutch cylinder and flush the fluid. if no change then what?

would it be worth getting a master rebuild kit? how do I determine is the master needs to be rebuilt?

When my clutch master cylinder was dieing on me, it worked... is just "creeped" unless I "pumped" the clutch a number of times before stopping at a light... or, pumped the clutch a half dozen times between shifts.  No noises.

[fudgie]

Hollywood had his valk not take 5th gear. Ended up being the u-joint.

[upjeeper]

I bled the clutch out this afternoon. It REALLY needed it.
The clutch now works, I can fire the bike up, hold in the clutch lever (which now has resistance) and shift into gear. However when I release the clutch lever the horrible grinding noise is back (when in gear).

If the bike is off, in gear now with the clutch held in the bike will move forward.

Seems to shift up and down through most of the gears but neutral is hard to find.

<insert confused smiley face here...>

help?...

[R J]

I'll put my $$$$ on the bob tailed nag.

Clutch basket rivets.

[upjeeper]

I'll put my $$$$ on the bob tailed nag.

Clutch basket rivets.

so I understand clutch basket rivets.
but what do you mean by "bob tailed nag"?

[fudgie]

I'll put my $$$$ on the bob tailed nag.

Clutch basket rivets.

so I understand clutch basket rivets.
but what do you mean by "bob tailed nag"?

I think its a referance to the Camp town Lady song. No biggie. I'm no horse person but I think its a short cut tail on a nag. 

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

Check the coupler on the final drive, I stripped mine out and it sounded like it is coming from the engine end but really was just the coupler and the driveshaft that needed replacing.

[Jeff K]

Check the coupler on the final drive, I stripped mine out and it sounded like it is coming from the engine end but really was just the coupler and the driveshaft that needed replacing.

Yeah, I'm not convinced it's the clutch rivets yet also.
Now that the Clutch lever "feels normal" it may not have anything to do with the clutch.

I'd inspect the final drive also.

[chip]

Check the drive shaft at the cup, had the splines fail once, knew it had to be the trans. I was never so happy to spend 100.00.

[upjeeper]

It appears the pinion cup and driveshaft have worn. It's looking like the following parts from HDL


Mfg Part Number:           41410-MN5-000
Description:         JOINT, PINION for 1997 HONDA GL1500C
Unit Price:         $35.09
#13
http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_image_popup.asp?fveh=3465&section=148039&year=1997&make=HONDA&category=MOTORCYCLES&dc=2291&name=FINAL+DRIVEN+GEAR


Mfg Part Number:           40201-MZ0-000
Description:         SHAFT, PROPELLER for 1997 HONDA GL1500C
Unit Price:         $100.11
#2 from http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_image_popup.asp?fveh=3465&section=148048&year=1997&make=HONDA&category=MOTORCYCLES&dc=2291&name=SWINGARM


Mfg Part Number:           91261-ME9-005
Description:         OIL SEAL (27X43X7) for 1997 HONDA GL1500C
Unit Price:         $7.34
#16 http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_image_popup.asp?fveh=3465&section=148048&year=1997&make=HONDA&category=MOTORCYCLES&dc=2291&name=SWINGARM


  ???
Should I tear into my u-joint and check that while I'm at it??

[MP]

Yes.

[AussieValk]

That shaft price looks expensive. I ordered one last week for $48.01 from HDL.

[upjeeper]

That shaft price looks expensive. I ordered one last week for $48.01 from HDL.

that's what I thought, could you find the part number you bought please?
Thanks.

[AussieValk]

same part # 40201-MZ0-A00 but it was for a 2000 model, not that it should be any different.

Ok just noticed the difference in the number...A00, not 000 like yours.