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The elctrical dunce is back for MORE HELP

Started by .., Mon 14, Mar 2022, 12:35:45

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I bought 2 LED strips to add as rear brake lights.



I also bought a brake flasher module.



I know where the wire is on the bike that goes to the brake light.

I'm going to tap into the brake light wire with the red wire from each LED strip and ground the black wires to the frame.  

How do I wire in the brake flasher module???

3W-lonerider

put one of those on the tailights of my kaw. the positive needs to be wired from the feed going to your lights then output goes to the lights themselves. negative output  doesn't need to be hooked up but negative input needs to be grounded. where ever you find a ground.
so in other words the flasher will be inline between the feed and the lights.

h13man

Though I wired in a Back Off brake modulator, I stuck it under seat on the fender just above the "info box". I then wired it to wire harness running along the right side of the frame.

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Quote from: 3W-lonerider on Mon 14, Mar 2022, 14:55:42
put one of those on the tailights of my kaw. the positive needs to be wired from the feed going to your lights then output goes to the lights themselves. negative output  doesn't need to be hooked up but negative input needs to be grounded. where ever you find a ground.
so in other words the flasher will be inline between the feed and the lights.

Like this?



3W-lonerider

#4
positive in and positive out. kinda like installing an inline fuse. neg in needs grounded negative out does not. you can install it anywhere you want but you only wire it for the brake light wire. in you diagram it looks like your putting the ground on the positive feed wire. deffinatly no. the ground will go to the frame or another suitable ground.

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Quote from: 3W-lonerider on Tue 15, Mar 2022, 14:17:43
positive in and positive out. kinda like installing an inline fuse. neg in needs grounded negative out does not. you can install it anywhere you want but you only wire it for the brake light wire. in you diagram it looks like your putting the ground on the positive feed wire. deffinatly no. the ground will go to the frame or another suitable ground.

My bad drawing. All ground wires will be to frame and no near the positive.

lostparrot

not to hijack the thread, but i just bought a brake flasher, hooked it up, and it will flash the first time i squeeze the brake, but won't flash again unless i cycle power. Any thoughts?

3W-lonerider

they arn't supposed to continually flash. most flash 3 times then stay solid. then you have to recycle the brake switch to go threw the cycle again. sounds like its working like its supposed to.
mine flashes 3 times fast the 3 times slow then stays solid.

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Quote from: lostparrot on Sat 19, Mar 2022, 00:43:37
not to hijack the thread, but i just bought a brake flasher, hooked it up, and it will flash the first time i squeeze the brake, but won't flash again unless i cycle power. Any thoughts?

What make?

Did it come with instructions?

gordonv

Hyperlite is the brand I know/linked. They all do something, then come on solid. Not allowed to continually flash (plus it's VERY annoying to the person behind you and BRIGHT).

https://hyperlites.com/stdsf.html/
1999 Black with custom paint IS


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I don't have a green wire with the yellow stripe .


I did find another post stating on their bike the brake wire was black/yellow.


I have one of those and wired everything up before final fixing.


Ignition on, brake lever pulled and NUTTIN! NUTTIN I TELL YOU.


All my wire joins twisted and soldered. I don't know if the brake wire splice is good and I didn't try a volt meter to see it the wire at the LED strips was live. Me and a volt meter aren't a good pairing.


I did connect the ground to the negative terminal. Wrong or right???

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I think I'm close to resolving the problem.

One I get my Posi Tap connectors tomorrow all should be good.

Right now all the connections I can make are soldered and heat shrink wrapped.

F6BANGER


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#14

The final result. LEDs mounted to an L shaped bracket I spray painted black and fitted under my trunk rack.


rug_burn

Looks good-
    Your title for this thread always cracks me up-  aren't we all dunces in a great many ways?  So much to know, so much beer,  so little time..!
...insert hip saying here..

old2soon

Quote from: rug_burn on Mon 28, Mar 2022, 11:26:08
Looks good-
   Your title for this thread always cracks me up-  aren't we all dunces in a great many ways?  So much to know, so much beer,  so little time..!

        What I learned as an Navy Aircraft tech was to Know WHEN to walk away from a perplexing/difficult problem. Had a Gnarly old First Class Petty Officer-E 6-taught me about the walkin away. Course at sea an icy cold adult beverage was NOT an option!  :roll: BUT the 24/7 burger and coffee line helped!  :2funny: Far as that tricty thing goes-it's Still evil!  :evil: Course can't live without tricity these days.  :2funny: RIDE SAFE.
Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion

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I have 2 more LED strips which I have loosely zip tied to the saddlebag uprights.

I then connected the 2 red leads together and used a connector to splice into the red wire to the brakes.

I then connected the 2 ground leads together and used a connector to splice into the ground wire to the brakes.

Ignition on and brake lever pulled.

The 2 LED strips already fitted lit up and the 2 new ones nuttin! NUTTIN!!!

The connectors I used are also the connectors I used to wire in the original 2 strips.

I know, I know, use a volt meter to test if there's power to the new strips.

HOW?

Jims99

Meters are our friends. If you're getting power to the connections (good ground) and still nothing,'try switching the positive and negative. They are pole sensitive and I have seen lights come out of factory wired backwards.
The light at the end of the tunnel, is a train.
99 tourer
00 interstate
97 standard
91 wing
78 trail 70

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Yesterday it was just frustrating to solder, heat shrink etc to end up with the extra LED strips not lighting up.

It has to be something fairly simple. I hope.

Timbo1

Check voltage where you tied in to the wiring when you have brakes on.  LED's have a voltage drop across them so if your wired in series you may not be getting the 12V or whatever your LED's voltage range requires.   Test  them across your battery terminals just to make sure they work.  As previously stated LED's have a polarity so make sure your connecting -N to -N and +P to +P.    Connected in parallel and with the correct polarity they should work assuming you don't have something else in circuit that cant withstand the current draw.

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Quote from: Timbo1 on Thu 14, Apr 2022, 16:31:14
Check voltage where you tied in to the wiring when you have brakes on.  LED's have a voltage drop across them so if your wired in series you may not be getting the 12V or whatever your LED's voltage range requires.   Test  them across your battery terminals just to make sure they work.  As previously stated LED's have a polarity so make sure your connecting -N to -N and +P to +P.    Connected in parallel and with the correct polarity they should work assuming you don't have something else in circuit that cant withstand the current draw.

N - N and P - P is definitely correct. I used black and red wires.

I'll strip everything out and check voltage. I found a web site that explains that in baby terms.

Didn't think about the battery check, thanks.

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F it.

Stripped all the new wiring and I'll stick with the new LED strips I have until I can be bothered to try again later.