mixture screw settings on std with cobra sixes baffles in

[calcruiser]

what's your bikes sweet spot?  2.5, 2.25, 2, 1.75, or 1.5 turns out?

[98valk]

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,lower_rpm_engines.html

[Jims99]

I've rebuilt 3 sets of my own. I always turn them in (count)and lightly seat before removing all three have been between 2 and 2 1/4 out. Thats where I would start. It may be a trade rich, I don't need the choke at all in Fl until it gets under around 75 degrees. Maybe a 1/4 turn extra running the cobra's. I'm sure someone will know more than me about this, it's just where I would start.

[WintrSol]

I follow the rpm peaking adjustment procedure in the manual, after setting the starting point; doesn't matter where they end up, just get the best idle. Then maybe add about 1/16 turn out so they won't be quite as lean. Minor variations in the parts will make the final settings near, but not always at, the starting point, with some having slightly different amounts. Note Jim says 'between' values, so some small variation.
Somewhere, I found a recommendation to use an IR thermometer to quickly check the header temperatures after a cool start and they will tell you which are rich or lean. It all need a good sync before adjustment, of course.

[calcruiser]

Somewhere, I found a recommendation to use an IR thermometer to quickly check the header temperatures after a cool start and they will tell you which are rich or lean. It all need a good sync before adjustment, of course.

bingo dude!  that's my plan to get fuel/air dialed.  even temps.  gotta buy one but i've been sick of spending on bikes and tools.  giving the wallet a break and just enjoying the bike for now. Christmas is around the corner.  I'll work on it when the rain comes.  thanks for reply buddy.

[rug_burn]

The way you do that with the IR temp readings is to go around after a cold start, without choke or revving it, and measure the temp of each exhaust header along with the time after start. Do this for about the first 7 or 8 minutes as many times as you can, then plot these out on a program like Excel, or just by hand on graph paper.  Make a curve of temp vs time for each cyl on the same graph.  Now you can see the behavior of each cylinder as it warms up. 
    A clyinder that is initially warmer than the rest is rich, it runs good, not misfiring, even without choke, and will end up cooler than the rest because it will not be too lean when fully warm.
    A cylinder that is too lean will start out cooler, because it'll be misfiring until it warms up to running temp, at which point it will become one of the hotter ones because it's at or nearer the peak temp. 
  Of course, there are many other possibilities, like a cyl that is so lean it never will run right, etc, so the engine should be near to some good state of tune to begin with.
    Remember, if you crack the throttle a bit more at any point, the power should be right there;  if you crack or give it a little more gas, and it just kinda sags, and you gotta nurse it up to higher rpm, then the mixture is set too lean, maybe way too much so.
    I wrote this up several years back, it's not super foolproof, but using it, I got my bike running real good- strong and smooth, after the carbs being badly gunked up, and cleaned.
      Good luck-  tell us how it goes.

[WintrSol]

I now have an IR camera adapter for my Android phone, so I can see three pipes at a time; less delay between comparison readings that way. I haven't used it on the Valk yet, but when temperature are cool, but still warm enough for a no-choke start, I'll give it a shot.

[rug_burn]

I gotta love that P51 picture-   

[WintrSol]

I gotta love that P51 picture-   

Thx. Father-in-law, Nadzab, New Guinea, either 1944 or 1945.