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Wiring a "FAKE" LED alarm light???

Started by fordmano, Sat 19, Mar 2011, 04:34:09

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fordmano

Ok, I found another little item I would like to add to my Multipoint project list and would like to run this past a few of you electrifying smart dudes.

So, I would like to add what is known as a "Fake Alarm LED light".
I would like to add a small LED light that ONLY comes on when the key is in the OFF position.


Sorry I stole these 2 pictures from another thread.



Ok so now with reading the info from the first picture, Can I assume if I pick up a 5 pin relay as my primary relay for my AUX fuse panel that is ONLY energized when the key is in the on position. That I can pick up one of those pre built +12volt blinking LED and run a HOT +12volt to one side of the LED and then run a wire back to the relay and attach it to the 87a pin in the center of the relay? When the key is in the off position and the relay does NOT have power triggering it to make contact with pin 87 and that 87a becomes a grounded circuit thus making my circuit to the LED complete and allowing it to operate and blink?

One like this is what I am talking about a prebuilt +12volt flashing LED.


http://www.frys.com/product/1334006?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

Does this make any sense to anyone?
Thanks in advance.


What Exactly is Normal?:crazy2: :crazy2:

83GS550
93XR650L TARD!
97WR250
99ValkyrieI/S Tri-tone
01YZ125(x2)
05DRZ-125

dreamaker

#1
I did this a couple years ago, I used a blinking LED with a, I think 470ohm resistor. Rather then using a separate relay I used a relay I had on my bike for an accessory with open terminals I used. Killed two birds with one stone. I went to www.superbrightleds.com they have the LED's and they have a calculator on there site to determine what resistor to use. Everything else I got at RadioShack. My first defence to the success of the fake alarm was not to let anyone know it was fake, you just told the world yours is fake. Don't mean to pop your balloon but don't tell people your business, not all people on this forum are honest. Any way it worked OK !!, but it brought to much attention to my bike so I converted the fake alarm blinking LED to a petcock left on indicator. I think I paid like $.60 for the LED and $.79 for the resistors and $.99 for on/off switch.

fordmano

Thanks that is what I was basically looking for.

I am not too worried about it really getting stolen, since it is insured for more than it is worth to replace..... I am good. 

Thanks again,
Matt


What Exactly is Normal?:crazy2: :crazy2:

83GS550
93XR650L TARD!
97WR250
99ValkyrieI/S Tri-tone
01YZ125(x2)
05DRZ-125

Madmike

Quote from: fordmano on Sat 19, Mar 2011, 04:34:09
So, I would like to add what is known as a "Fake Alarm LED light".
I would like to add a small LED light that ONLY comes on when the key is in the OFF position.


Ok so now with reading the info from the first picture, Can I assume if I pick up a 5 pin relay as my primary relay for my AUX fuse panel that is ONLY energized when the key is in the on position. That I can pick up one of those pre built +12volt blinking LED and run a HOT +12volt to one side of the LED and then run a wire back to the relay and attach it to the 87a pin in the center of the relay? When the key is in the off position and the relay does NOT have power triggering it to make contact with pin 87 and that 87a becomes a grounded circuit thus making my circuit to the LED complete and allowing it to operate and blink?

One like this is what I am talking about a prebuilt +12volt flashing LED.


http://www.frys.com/product/1334006?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

Does this make any sense to anyone?
Thanks in advance.

... sorry but I get confused when I read your note..... so I will start from fresh...

Wire in a control wire from the ignition to 85 and connect terminal 86 to ground

Supply adequate power to terminal 30 from the battery positive , now... 87a will have power in key off position, 87 will have power in key on position

.... if you have already done other modifications to your stock electrical system and have incorporated 5 pin relays into it to control such things as an auxiliary power panel or headlights then you may have a relay that is "keyed" and is not using 87a terminal and so you could now utilise it to power up an LED when the key is in teh off position.  If you have a multimeter or continuity probe style tester you should be able to check 87a by grounding the tester black and then with either the tester red or probe touch teh 87a terminal and if it has power with the key switch in the off position then you could utilise that to power your LED indicator.

Madmike

Quote from: dreamaker on Sat 19, Mar 2011, 05:53:39
I did this a couple years ago, I used a blinking LED with a, I think 470ohm resistor. Rather then using a separate relay I used a relay I had on my bike for an accessory with open terminals I used. Killed two birds with one stone. I went to www.superbrightleds.com they have the LED's and they have a calculator on there site to determine what resistor to use. Everything else I got at RadioShack. My first defence to the success of the fake alarm was not to let anyone know it was fake, you just told the world yours is fake. Don't mean to pop your balloon but don't tell people your business, not all people on this forum are honest. Any way it worked OK !!, but it brought to much attention to my bike so I converted the fake alarm blinking LED to a petcock left on indicator. I think I paid like $.60 for the LED and $.79 for the resistors and $.99 for on/off switch.

... interesting idea with all the concern expressed regarding petcock status etc. - Did you use a micro switch on the petcock stem to recognize position or how did you do it???

T-Bird


dreamaker

Quote from: Madmike on Sun 20, Mar 2011, 19:14:31
Quote from: dreamaker on Sat 19, Mar 2011, 05:53:39
I did this a couple years ago, I used a blinking LED with a, I think 470ohm resistor. Rather then using a separate relay I used a relay I had on my bike for an accessory with open terminals I used. Killed two birds with one stone. I went to www.superbrightleds.com they have the LED's and they have a calculator on there site to determine what resistor to use. Everything else I got at RadioShack. My first defence to the success of the fake alarm was not to let anyone know it was fake, you just told the world yours is fake. Don't mean to pop your balloon but don't tell people your business, not all people on this forum are honest. Any way it worked OK !!, but it brought to much attention to my bike so I converted the fake alarm blinking LED to a petcock left on indicator. I think I paid like $.60 for the LED and $.79 for the resistors and $.99 for on/off switch.

... interesting idea with all the concern expressed regarding petcock status etc. - Did you use a micro switch on the petcock stem to recognize position or how did you do it???



On the back plastic shutoff I mounted a micro switch and on the rotating shank I made a cam. So if I am in fuel on or reserve on and I turn off the ignition then a bright red LED flashes telling me my fuel is on. works great !!


fordmano

Quote from: Madmike on Sun 20, Mar 2011, 19:11:12
Quote from: fordmano on Sat 19, Mar 2011, 04:34:09
So, I would like to add what is known as a "Fake Alarm LED light".
I would like to add a small LED light that ONLY comes on when the key is in the OFF position.


Ok so now with reading the info from the first picture, Can I assume if I pick up a 5 pin relay as my primary relay for my AUX fuse panel that is ONLY energized when the key is in the on position. That I can pick up one of those pre built +12volt blinking LED and run a HOT +12volt to one side of the LED and then run a wire back to the relay and attach it to the 87a pin in the center of the relay? When the key is in the off position and the relay does NOT have power triggering it to make contact with pin 87 and that 87a becomes a grounded circuit thus making my circuit to the LED complete and allowing it to operate and blink?

One like this is what I am talking about a prebuilt +12volt flashing LED.


http://www.frys.com/product/1334006?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

Does this make any sense to anyone?
Thanks in advance.

... sorry but I get confused when I read your note..... so I will start from fresh...

Wire in a control wire from the ignition to 85 and connect terminal 86 to ground

Supply adequate power to terminal 30 from the battery positive , now... 87a will have power in key off position, 87 will have power in key on position

.... if you have already done other modifications to your stock electrical system and have incorporated 5 pin relays into it to control such things as an auxiliary power panel or headlights then you may have a relay that is "keyed" and is not using 87a terminal and so you could now utilise it to power up an LED when the key is in teh off position.  If you have a multimeter or continuity probe style tester you should be able to check 87a by grounding the tester black and then with either the tester red or probe touch teh 87a terminal and if it has power with the key switch in the off position then you could utilise that to power your LED indicator.



I am really sorry about that and yes I know I end up writing in confusing manors often. You can probably see that I wrote that note at 02:30 ish I was at work and very tired (night shift kinda sucks but it pays the bills).

Thank you, what you wrote was exactly what I was thinking or trying to ask. You answered my question exactly the way I needed it answered.

Thanks again,
Matt


What Exactly is Normal?:crazy2: :crazy2:

83GS550
93XR650L TARD!
97WR250
99ValkyrieI/S Tri-tone
01YZ125(x2)
05DRZ-125