Carb Question??

[Fudd]

Without removing the entire assembly can carb #5 be moved rearward enough from carb #3 to change its fuel rail o-rings?  The manuals show disection after the whole assembly is removed.  I'm looking for a short cut.  Also, do I need to resyncronize after changing a fuel rail o-ring.

[Pete]

If you mean while in place on the bike?

I do not think so. The fuel line orings need to be pressed straight in. Any offset, risk
crimping the orings.

It is going to be easier to simply remove the carbs and do the job right.

While you have them off clean everything and reassemble with new orings.

[Fudd]

Thank you so very much for your reply Pete.
I will take your advice.  Right now I'm leaning on just taking it to the shop and letting them fix it.  There are several things I'm confused about even before I begin (like thrust and synchronization springs), and help has been disappointingly slow comming from this post.

[art]

The carbs are scary but once you pull them it gets a lot easer.They will come out as a unit an then you can do what you need.One of the coils on the left will have to be removed also for clearance.Pete is right about doing it correctly.Been there done that.

[Fudd]

The coil is already off from the airbox removal.
I was just reading in the Honda shop manual that I should be replacing both air and fuel rail o-rings any time the assembly is broken down.  Of course I only ordered fuel rail o-rings.  Is changing the air o-rings really necessary (assuming they are not bad) or just a damn good idea?

[Ricky-D]

You're may be referring to the riser O-rings. If you disturb them you probably need to replace them.

They fail pretty regularly and stains on the top of the heads in the vicinity of the risers is a pretty familiar indication of O-ring failure.

Using the proper O-rings is important in getting long life out of them.

***

[Fudd]

Well tomorrow is the day to get my feet wet.  The parts finally came in.  This has been a miserable week not having my dragon going.  A week without riding is bad enough, so I don't know how you yankees can stand puting it up for the winter.  The cold we get here in Louisiana is just an inconvenience.
I've studied up on the Honda service manual and I hope I'm ready for the challenge.  Baring snags I'll be terriorizing the streets again by tomorrow night.

[98valk]

coat the new o-rings with silicone grease AKA dielectric grease before assembly.

[Fudd]

Thanks CA 
Just went and got some.

[valkyriemc]

You're may be referring to the riser O-rings. If you disturb them you probably need to replace them.

They fail pretty regularly and stains on the top of the heads in the vicinity of the risers is a pretty familiar indication of O-ring failure.

Using the proper O-rings is important in getting long life out of them.

***

Ricky, ecrater lists o rings for fuel 'tween the carbs, if you break carbs down.
Check this pic out->http://s.ecrater.com/stores/55463/47bdd44719b61_55463b.jpg

[Fudd]

That's the diagram we are working from.  One of them anyway.

So far  we've disassembled carbs #3 from #5 and #4 from #6.  We have replaced the air and fuel o-rings on the rails and reassembled.  The only thing that has given us a problem so far is the synchronization springs, but we finally got them in place with a pocket knife and micro-point needle nose pliers.

[Fudd]

Reassembly appears to be going well up to the point of attatching throttle cables.  I'm having an issue with the throttle not wanting to return with the cables attatched.  It springs back fine when you remove the cables.

I'm scratching my head on this. 

[sugerbear]

did you crimp the cables at the neck? check the routing to be sure.

[Pete]

did you crimp the cables at the neck? check the routing to be sure.

+1

Has to be cable friction or adjusted to tight when eliminating free play.

[old grouch]

Also check that the return cable is in the groove on the throttle drum.  I just went through the same thing yesterday & that was the issue.  Stan

[Fudd]

This cable thing may be one of these things I'll have to walk away from, get a good night's sleep  and look at it again tomorrow (sometime that works).  The cable seems to be routed correctly,  not pinched anywhere and in the "groove".  Soooo hummm????  Nothing is leaking from any carburetor, that's good, but I seem to have a drop of gas drip every few  minutes from the "switch side" of the petcock.  I'm going to order a pingle tonight.  I'm tired of petcock issues.

Does anyone have a link and a recomendation for an "electric shutoff" to go behind the pingle?