99 Interstate Alternator question

[CowboyBlue]

Ok, so my alt quit charging. I've found new ones on ebay that are 85 amp for $180. However, I found a used OEM with 13K on it for $99. My IS has 58K on it and the alternator left me stranded suddenly yesterday. Limped her home (by charging the battery a few times at buddies houses along the route). I removed the very tight fitting Hitachi alternator.

Would you guys get the used OEM with low miles to save a few bucks or up for the new aftermarket one?

Here's the new one I'm thinking of buying. Has a 1 year warranty:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11051.m43.l1123/7?euid=fd789dedaadd4ebcaa370253047b6055&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D260656767085%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AX%3ARTQ%3AMOTORS%3A1123

[jer0177]

If I were you, I would try to rebuild my own.  Getting the Rectifier from Honda looks to be about $180, but it could probably be had aftermarket as it's the same one used in the Goldwings. 

Quick search on it's part number (31105-MN5-005) comes up with a $65 one on fleabay.

[wild6]

Check the simple stuff first, like brushes ($2.50 each @ HDL).

[BigMac (SoCal)]

They should be checked and or replaced every 50,000 miles depending on how many lights and or accessories  you might be running. I've done mine at 45,000 and 78,000 and it needed brushes both times. I have 107000 on the bike now with no problems with the Alternator.

Dave

[CowboyBlue]

Good advice. Will rip her down and look.

[CowboyBlue]

How will I know if it is just the brushes? I realize they are super cheap, but what can I do to check the rest of the system?

[CASABROKER]

Take a multimeter to the rotor inside Google testing alternator it will tell you what to do.  It will show if you winding is shot. I got the oem hitachi on e-bay $228 no china crap made in Japan.  Most after market Chinese

[BigMac (SoCal)]

Not that hard to take apart and replace the brushes. Clean it up and put in the brushes. Install and check voltage while running. Should be somewhere between 14.1 and 14.5 volts  at the battery posts I believe.

This web site should help you alot.

Dave

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/alternator/alternatorservice.htm

[CowboyBlue]

seems the surface is really worn and a groove has been created , also it appears i broke a brush during removal because of the deep groove. https://picasaweb.google.com/117762014094056618194/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCN7UtqfG7vHopgE#5729578814769179842
https://picasaweb.google.com/117762014094056618194/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCN7UtqfG7vHopgE#5729578749629595954

Should i try brushes or am i wasting my time?

[jer0177]

The pic got kinda blurry when I zoomed in, so I couldn't see how bad the groove is. The brushes don't look too bad if the outer one was the same length is the inner one still is. Check the rectifier and windings to see where your problem lies. 

[gordonv]

First question shoud be, is how is your power needs? Do you need a stock alt, or do you need or could use more power from a high out put one, to power all your extra lights and things?

If stock is good enough, then try to fix your own before you buy a used one. I remember someone somewhere having some nice pictures of brushes, comparing the old to the new (I could even be thinking of the GL1100 starter rebuild). If the brushes are only $2.50, replace them any ways. I didn't check the links, but putting the armature onto a laith and filing it smooth, should go a long way to fix it (don't take off any more than you need to).

[CowboyBlue]

After looking at the images in the tutorial, I see that the brush surface on mine looks the same as the picture in the tut. Ordering the brushes today. By the weekend I'll have something either working or still broken. I'd be out only 10 bucks or so and some practice time putting it back together. Sure will make the honey happy, as I just spent a load on tires.

[jer0177]

I used to work in an auto parts store and always found it amusing that people would come in for alternators and starters instead of parts to repair them.  The major parts of those items - windings, casings, etc, usually don't go bad, and it's the replaceable parts - bearings, diodes, solenoids - that do, and they're MUCH cheaper than the whole unit.   

[Pete]

For the time invested in the repair, I would and do go new or rebuilt.

[jer0177]

For the time invested in the repair, I would and do go new or rebuilt.

It doesn't take much longer to "rebuild" one than it does to replace it.  You've already got it out - that was the hard part.  To take out a few more screws, check a couple of things, put it back together and save a buttload of money is worth it to me.

Example - starter for my truck (beat up old GMC) - Duralast gold - $80.  Solenoid for said starter (which is the most problematic part) - duralast gold - $26.  It's 2 screws and a nut to replace it.  Definitely worth the $54 saving.

I guess rebuild companies count on people like that though.

[Skinhead]

For the time invested in the repair, I would and do go new or rebuilt.

It doesn't take much longer to "rebuild" one than it does to replace it.  You've already got it out - that was the hard part.  To take out a few more screws, check a couple of things, put it back together and save a buttload of money is worth it to me.

Example - starter for my truck (beat up old GMC) - Duralast gold - $80.  Solenoid for said starter (which is the most problematic part) - duralast gold - $26.  It's 2 screws and a nut to replace it.  Definitely worth the $54 saving.

I guess rebuild companies count on people like that though.

Jeremy, where was your signature picture taken?

[jer0177]

Jeremy, where was your signature picture taken?

That was last August on the Dragon.  Katie and I rode the BRP North to South over the span of a week or so - did about a hundred miles a day and a lot of sightseeing, hiking, etc., then hit the Dragon when we were done with the Parkway.  It was an awesome trip.

[Red Diamond]

By the time you get that alternator out, fiddle fart with it trying to repair something you probably don't have the proper tools to repair it with, then fiddle fart with putting it back in, only to find out it still doesn;'t work. Do the simple thing first, buy a new one. You will be happier for it. Also there is a company in Arizona, that  sells one with a two year warranty for about 227 dollars.

[macdoesit]

Ok, so my alt quit charging. I've found new ones on ebay that are 85 amp for $180. However, I found a used OEM with 13K on it for $99. My IS has 58K on it and the alternator left me stranded suddenly yesterday. Limped her home (by charging the battery a few times at buddies houses along the route). I removed the very tight fitting Hitachi alternator.

Would you guys get the used OEM with low miles to save a few bucks or up for the new aftermarket one?

Here's the new one I'm thinking of buying. Has a 1 year warranty:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11051.m43.l1123/7?euid=fd789dedaadd4ebcaa370253047b6055&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D260656767085%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AX%3ARTQ%3AMOTORS%3A1123

Had my alt rebuilt in Ardmore Okla my home town  Buttons auto elect. 12 dollars.

[CowboyBlue]

It actually is just like rebuilding an automotive alternator. Not difficult. And the local dealer had the brushes for $5.00. So after rebuilding and installing, if it doesn't work, I'm out $5.00 plus will have gained valuable experience into the matter. Then I can buy a new one. It's literally 3 simple 12 mm bolts, plus I did not remove the plug. I was able to unhook from the back of the alternator. If it works, it's so simple it hurts. Getting it past the frame was pretty easy once I read the tutorial. Remember to tilt "in-board" with the rear of the alternator. I removed the overflow tube and it was a snap. Even with the noise filter on the back of the alternator (IS version). I'd be unafraid to do it over.

[Ricky-D]

Ken, the MARS guy told me the biggest problem with the alternators is with the windings on the armature. He said they break and become intermittent conductors.

He rewinds the armature himself and then tests them.

Not something I would attempt to do.

***

[CASABROKER]

Check the winding with the meter if you don't you'll be cussing for sure.  No quick rebuild if they're toast.  Can we say buy a new one.

[CowboyBlue]

Yep. Toast. New brushes installed. Windings junk. Time for new. Put her together in about an hour. Oh well...

[CowboyBlue]

anything else i can check?

[jer0177]

anything else i can check?

Do you have a multimeter?  If not, an el-cheapo from any auto parts store will work - as long as it measures resistance/continuity. 

Check the windings as has been mentioned - make sure you're getting continuity between each "ring" (copper band), and none between either ring and the shaft.  If these both pass, the windings are good (or the if you have an intermittent problem, the intermittent connection is connected).

If those pass, and you've replaced the brushes, it's gotta be the rectifier / regulator which is internal to these alternators.  The Honda part number is 31105-MN5-005 but there are aftermarket ones available (http://www.oldbikebarn.com/Honda-GL1500-Goldwing-Valkyrie-Rectifier-Regulator).

[CowboyBlue]

Sorry for the long wait for a reply. I did in fact order a brand new 85 amp alternator off of ebay. My internal regulator was toast.

It must have been clocked for a goldwing. After about 5 minutes of trying to install I remembered to check it. It needed to be clocked and it went in fine. I also had to remove the little filter for the radio that is attached. It was easy to bolt it on once the alternator was installed.

Using heavy grease, I was able to "stick" the dampers to the internal housing so that they didn't fall in my way for the impeller. Quite easy after all. Next time I'm just gonna get a new one. Charges quick. Works great. 1 year warranty.

IMHO: Just replace it with new. Don't mess around.

[R J]

There is also a Gold Wing Alt that will fit and work just fine.

Right column, 3/4 way down.

http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm

Save this link in your favorites, you will be surprised how many times you will refer to it.

[CowboyBlue]

Awesome! Thanks!