Cant get rear wheel off.

[79cbxr]

   Bought a used Valk from Illinois.  Loved it till today. Trying to change the back tire. Got it almost all the way off but the hub with the 5 pins is stuck to the drive hub. It didn't come out with the wheel.  I cant get it loose and the wheel won't come out with that stuck to the hub. 
The 5 pins are in the way.   I am sure I'm not the first to run into this issue.  Any suggestions?
Thanks,  CBXR

[CajunRider]

Gently tap each pin... GENTLY... Then try to pull the hub.

Repeat, repeat, repeat....

It'll come off eventually. 

I just had the same issue.      

[Bone]

I'm reading your message the pins are still in the wheel. If that is what is happening can you pry between the hub and the final drive to get the pins back into the wheel all the way. The hub has to stay with the wheel to removed.

[YoungPUP]

In the bottom of the black dust ring there is a slot for a big screwdriver/small pry bar.  Insert and gently pry drive star thingy out of pumpkin.  Replace wheel dampers while you're got it all apart.

[Challenger]

Just a suggestion here if you haven't figured this out already, after you remove the brake caliper and spacer from the left side, put the axle back in, slide wheel over to the left and now you have room to pry, beat cuss or whatever it takes without having to manhandle the wheel.  I found this out the hard way. Good luck.

[John U.]

If the pins have come loose or partially loose from the wheel, you will need to get them reinserted. Put the bike in gear so you can rotate the wheel to get them back where they belong. It has happened to me and is a BIG pain in the azz.
Try to get yourself in a position to wrestle with the wheel without killing your back.
Once the pins are back in the wheel it's time for the big screw driver to get the splines to separate. Then the wheel will come off.
Good luck, let us know how it's going, you have plenty of moral support here, many of us have been through the same thing.

[valky1500]

Taking off the rear wheel is the first thing needed to learn with a Valkyrie.
Taking the wheel off with the drive shaft and drive is Valkyrie Maintenance 101.

[Brian]

WOW. Sounds like you have alot of issues going in there. Get a copy of the shop manual so you can see how everything fits together back there.

Good luck.

[CajunRider]

In the bottom of the black dust ring there is a slot for a big screwdriver/small pry bar. 

I sure wish I had known that a couple of weeks ago!!    

[nerider2]

That happened to me too.  I just loosened the 4 bolts on the drive shaft to increase the clearance to let the pins clear the wheel,

[Imohtep]

 

[fordmano]

It has already been said here but,,, I am just so happy to say these things again since I just learned a couple of them in the last few days myself...

From YoungPUP, Use a big screw driver or small pry bar inserted through that litttle slot at the bottom of the black dust ring around the pumpkin. This one I Learned a coupel years ago teh first rear tire removal I did actually learned it when I insatlled the rear tire and had to pull it back off 2 times...


From Bone Same as above, those pins need to be fully seated into the dampners in the rear wheel.. Took me  awhile to understand what was going on with mine when trying to remove a rear wheel,,,

From Challenger this is one of the new things I recently learned,,, put the axle back through the wheel when you have the spacer and the brake mounting flange removed this will support the rim so you can slide it back and forth. WOW this one is a HUGE BACK saver...

From John U. this is also a new bit of information for me that I have locked into my memory bank as small as it might be...Putting the bike into gear is a great bit of information this will keep the differential from spinning and fighting against you while your trying to rotate and push or pull the tire into place or off the gears...

There are some really smart folks around here and sometimes all of us have sparks of genius, so always always ALWAYS share please if you come up with an idea or thought that has helped you out at all....

Thanks you guys

[Brian]

Guys, I may not be the brightness bulb on the tree at times and I do learm something new everytime I read the posts here. I have had my rear wheel off about 6 times now and each time seperating it from the rear end splines was never an issue. This last spring I pulled the hub out of the rim just to make sure it will seperate when needed. It took some prying to move the pins out of the dampner bushings. There was some grit and corrosion going on in there. Anti-seize was used when I replaced the hub. I suppose I will find out this winter if the hub will stay in the rear end verses the wheel.

This may be a stupid question but, what would allow the hub to seperate so freely from the wheel?

Yes, I leave the tranny in gear when pulling or re-installing the wheel. It sure helps lining up the splines with the 4 bolts loosened on the rear end.

[Bone]

Just installed my rear wheel with a new CT, 50K on the last tire.
Your question about the easy removable hub maybe the pins were clean, dry, dusty. The manual calls for a light grease film on the pins. That causes a slight suction holding the hub tighter in the wheel.

[RP#62]

The pins have shoulders on them which over time will wear corresponding shoulders in the bushings and make them harder to separate.  Lubing the pins accelerates the process as it creates a lapping compound.  I actually think they should be lubed to prevent squeaking and fretting but with a dry lubricant like powdered graphite or powdered moly, i.e. something that won't attract grit.
-RP

[Blackduck]

Another good dry lube option is CRC Dry PTFE.
Good on locks and firearms, very slick and drys so does not attract dirt.
Cheers Steve.