what am i doing wrong?? clutch help!!!

[jimmyk]

i'm trying to change my clutch fluid the old fashioned way....no mighty vac or anything.
   the brake fluid went good...the clutch not so good.

   do i do it the same way?....maybe i leave the master cylinder cover on while doing?  problem is when i crack the nut and pump, no fluid comes out.

   also...maybe the bleeder valve is bad,  does anyone know the part # for a new bleeder valve?

[sugerbear]

pump up the pressure THEN open the valve.
close it THEN release the clutch handle.
with it open and pumping you now have air in the system.

buy a mity vac, makes the process MUCH simpler. (or borrow)

and not trying to be a d####, but, you using the valve in the middle next to the seat key?

[salty1]

+1 on the need for vacuum when doing a fluid change on the clutch. Of course, you could push the fluid from the bleeder valve to the reservoir, might be messy. 

[Chrisj CMA]

I do mine the old fashioned way (no mighty vac) and the pull the clutch, open the valve, close the valve, release the handle....repeat works just fine. 

I agree sounds like you did it backwards and may have introduced air into the system if you released the handle with the valve open.

[fordmano]

Mighty VAC from Harbor freight the real name brand Mighty VAC "FOR THE WIN" just about the best $30.xx I have ever spent on tools...

Agree with the others, sounds like you might have actually introduced air INTO the syatem.

[Chrisj CMA]

All this talk about brake fluid made me not like my light brown brake fluid at all.  So, I ran clean fluid through the brakes and the clutch.  No vacuum tool just a plastic tube from the valve to a container and then the pump-open-close-release thing......clutch is smooth as glass and brakes stop a bit more convincingly.  The handle had a very slight jerkiness to it, almost like a false stop that had to be overcome.  Now its smooth and powerful.  Took 30 minutes but it was easy.  I dont see the need for fancier tools JMHO

[Jeff K]

If you put a hose on the bleeder nipple and run it into a container with enough fluid in it to cover the hose discharge you can just open the bleeder, pump the lever, and keep filling the reservoir. Hose stays under the fluid, and the reservoir stays full, it won't suck air. Did that for decades before I bought a pump.

[Chrisj CMA]

If you put a hose on the bleeder nipple and run it into a container with enough fluid in it to cover the hose discharge you can just open the bleeder, pump the lever, and keep filling the reservoir. Hose stays under the fluid, and the reservoir stays full, it won't suck air. Did that for decades before I bought a pump.

Jeff I was going to try this, but My tubing wouldnt seal on the bleed nipple tight enough to avoid sucking air at that point. 

I agree with your suggestion, Im just saying, if you do that you have to have a very tight fit on the tubing to the bleeder or you will still suck air

[RudyF6]

One word - Speedbleeders! 

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Use the ones listed for 95-00 GL1500

[Valkpilot]

If you put a hose on the bleeder nipple and run it into a container with enough fluid in it to cover the hose discharge you can just open the bleeder, pump the lever, and keep filling the reservoir. Hose stays under the fluid, and the reservoir stays full, it won't suck air. Did that for decades before I bought a pump.

Jeff I was going to try this, but My tubing wouldnt seal on the bleed nipple tight enough to avoid sucking air at that point. 

I agree with your suggestion, Im just saying, if you do that you have to have a very tight fit on the tubing to the bleeder or you will still suck air

A trick I learned from someone on this board: Spread some bearing grease around the bleeder nipple (not on the opening though.) This will seal not-quite-tight-enough tubing and eliminate sucking in air around the tubing.