Inzane 17

Trigger Wheel Advance Problems?

Started by Larry, Tue 03, Mar 2009, 16:21:12

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Larry

I posted this recently on the old board, but wondered what the issues are with having a constant advance present. I ride 3200 -  3500 RPM usually, but am looking for a little extra kick for passing etc as well as some extra fuel economy. Seems to be a bit flat when I roll on in this RPM range. Some have reported some loss of power at high speed. Just wondering why that might be.
To Ride or Not To Ride? RIDE of course!!!

canuuk01

I have a '99 I/S and I ran the 4* wheel with no issues at all.  As for top end, unless you like to run in the 100 + mph, the wheel should not be an issue.  I took mine out towards the end of the season last year because the cost of fuel was getting to $1.50 ltr for regular, and it is recommended to use premium fuel when running with a trigger wheel.  The price of fuel has dropped quite a bit, so I may pop mine back in.

With the trigger wheel installed, I feel a noticeable difference, and as some would say, just gear down and go, but with the wheel, I don't have to.  I like that little bit of punch.

John U.

Have you considered the ECT mod? The cost is less and you can dial in how much advance you want. I don't have experience with a trigger wheel but I'm very pleased with the ECT mod. Check it out in Shop Talk. You'll need at least mid grade gas either way.

Wizzard

Larry,, I have the same trigger wheel installed and I had a flat spot around 3500 rpm,, but mine was because of the cobra 6 into 6 pipes and I had to put in a needle kit and now have great response and no flat spots at all. I run regular gas and its fine. Went 7000 miles in one trip last summer and got around 30 mpg

VRCC # 24157

FLATSIX

I have a standard '97 - put in a 6° TW - midrange is better but not spectacular - lost 10km/h in topspeed !
standard '97 - european F6C - red & white - 27.000 KM

YardBoy

Might be time for a Dyna 3000.  My 98 Standard doesn't like a lot of timing down low or up top.  The Dyna 3000 on setting 3 gives the best overall performance.  Setting 3 pulls stronger from idle to redline and works best for my style of riding.  I am impressed by the overall increase in power and a little surprised that more people havn't posted positive results.  Price of the Dyna 3000 is now under $200.   

PharmBoy

I installed a 4 degree wheel in my 99 I/S not long ago, but did not notice any increase to speak of anywhere except maybe a couple of mpg increase.  Have been running 91 octane since the change, but I have been considering going back to the stock trigger wheel and 87 octane.
A politician is a fellow who will lay down your life for his country. ~Texas Guinan
4th Infantry Tet Vet
99 Interstate
97 Bumble Bee
97 Red & White

2tonevalk

I ran my 6 degree on my standard for about a yr and a half.  I just recently went back to the standard OEM.
I liked the low end power it gave.  I saw no real increase in gas mileage though.  Gas mileage is the same with either wheel on my bike.  I have OEM pipes with no modifications. 
With the trigger wheel, it gets up and goes but flattens out on the high end.  When you get on it, it sputters out at abotu 4,000 rpms.
I joined the guys who tried it didnt like it and put the original back on.

Ride safe
Robert

John Schmidt

Quote from: Indianawizzard on Tue 03, Mar 2009, 22:50:22
Larry,, I have the same trigger wheel installed and I had a flat spot around 3500 rpm,, but mine was because of the cobra 6 into 6 pipes and I had to put in a needle kit and now have great response and no flat spots at all. I run regular gas and its fine. Went 7000 miles in one trip last summer and got around 30 mpg

Indianawizzar...you should be getting better than 30mpg unless you're running better than 85-90 all the time. I have a 4 deg. wheel with the I/S ICM  and running on the super slabs I'll get in the mid 30's easy. On the side roads where the speeds are more moderate, 60-65, I'll get 40-41 mpg.

TheBear

TRB pipes, Running 6 degree trigger, Dyna 3000.  After the rejet and baffle mod, she runs like she's on fire.

Shockbushing Gary

The advance in a Valk is not constant. The trigger wheel sets where the timing begins, but not the timing curve. That is set in the ICM.
I used a 6 degree wheel in my I/S from 2000 on. It topped out at 125 MPH. That is a direct measure of HP. If it was lacking, it sure wasn't much.
There is a definite bump in response thru the mid-range with the 6 degree wheel. I liked mine. You can buy one, or if you look around here a bit, you'll see how to modify yours to be a 6 degree wheel.

Wizzard

Quote from: John Schmidt on Thu 05, Mar 2009, 18:39:47
Quote from: Indianawizzard on Tue 03, Mar 2009, 22:50:22
Larry,, I have the same trigger wheel installed and I had a flat spot around 3500 rpm,, but mine was because of the cobra 6 into 6 pipes and I had to put in a needle kit and now have great response and no flat spots at all. I run regular gas and its fine. Went 7000 miles in one trip last summer and got around 30 mpg

Indianawizzar...you should be getting better than 30mpg unless you're running better than 85-90 all the time. I have a 4 deg. wheel with the I/S ICM  and running on the super slabs I'll get in the mid 30's easy. On the side roads where the speeds are more moderate, 60-65, I'll get 40-41 mpg.

John,, I was pulling my trailer and going through mountains. This was my average on a 7000  mile trip. I did not think it was too bad

VRCC # 24157

Larry

Quote from: Shockbushing Gary on Thu 05, Mar 2009, 20:33:48
The advance in a Valk is not constant. The trigger wheel sets where the timing begins, but not the timing curve. That is set in the ICM.
I used a 6 degree wheel in my I/S from 2000 on. It topped out at 125 MPH. That is a direct measure of HP. If it was lacking, it sure wasn't much.
There is a definite bump in response thru the mid-range with the 6 degree wheel. I liked mine. You can buy one, or if you look around here a bit, you'll see how to modify yours to be a 6 degree wheel.
Are you saying, because the wheel starts the timing farther along that the normal flat spot in the response is also shifted ahead a bit too and as a result it is not felt the same in the throttle response? Or am I not understanding this correctly. If not perhaps you could clarify. TIA  :) I was only going to put a 4 deg on as that is what I understood in past postings I've read would likely work the best and not advance the timing too much. I usually burn premium anyway because around here, it's cleaner.
To Ride or Not To Ride? RIDE of course!!!

MP

IS should only run a 4.  The IS is already a little more advanced than the std.  A 4 in the IS gives about the same advance as a 6 in the std.

"Ridin' with Cycho"

theman8120

I have a dyna 3000, and my bike runs sweet. It has more power though out the rpm range.

asfltdncr

I have a 99 I/S and had a 6 degree put in mine about 20k miles ago.I didn't change from regular gas as others have suggested.
I found that the flat spot I had is gone and the throttle response is much more immediate.I'm more of a rider that is learning more information and confidence to work on my bike but see no apparent reason to ever remove it and go back to original.

Shockbushing Gary

Quote from: Larry on Fri 06, Mar 2009, 22:41:53
Quote from: Shockbushing Gary on Thu 05, Mar 2009, 20:33:48
The advance in a Valk is not constant. The trigger wheel sets where the timing begins, but not the timing curve. That is set in the ICM.
I used a 6 degree wheel in my I/S from 2000 on. It topped out at 125 MPH. That is a direct measure of HP. If it was lacking, it sure wasn't much.
There is a definite bump in response thru the mid-range with the 6 degree wheel. I liked mine. You can buy one, or if you look around here a bit, you'll see how to modify yours to be a 6 degree wheel.
Are you saying, because the wheel starts the timing farther along that the normal flat spot in the response is also shifted ahead a bit too and as a result it is not felt the same in the throttle response? Or am I not understanding this correctly. If not perhaps you could clarify. TIA  :) I was only going to put a 4 deg on as that is what I understood in past postings I've read would likely work the best and not advance the timing too much. I usually burn premium anyway because around here, it's cleaner.

Yes, the trigger wheel simply moves the timing in the advance direction by the # of degrees it specs. All the res of the curve remains as it was, obviously, X degrees advanced from stock.

Look at the timing curve highlighted in red. What was originally supposed to be shown was the cold curve. This is initiated by the ECT. Let's forget that for a moment. The rest of the curve, from 3400 RPM and 19* advance is correct. Now add 4 or 6 to that for the trigger wheel. I had good success with my I/S and a 6* wheel. I ran regular or mid-grade.
For you or those that are big on the ECT mod, this graph also shows why that's 1/2 a solution. The ECT cuts out at 3400 RPM, right where you want to it grab and go.
Hope this helps!  :cooldude:

Larry

Yup this helps a lot! This confirms that the TW is the way to go. Thanks a bunch for taking the time to respond.  :cooldude:
To Ride or Not To Ride? RIDE of course!!!