No Start

[reclaimerroger]

 >:(GRRRR!  I'm sure it is something simple but I can't find it.  Bike stopped cold 8 miles into ride.  All electrics work but the starter wont' engage .  When I push the button headlight goes out and I can hear a click at what I think is the starter relay.  I checked all fuses I could find and they all tested ok.  30amp at starter relay and all in the fuse block.  Kill switch checks out with ohm meter.  Bike is in neutral, kickstand up, clutch pulled in, and kill switch on.  Also battery fully charged.   Nothing but a small click by the relay.  Any suggestions?
Thanks for any help.  I am slowly going nutz  but speed toward nutz is increasing.

[Bone]

Fully charged ? How many volts ?

Did you try jumping it with a Known good battery ?

The battery of a "not-running" car.

Don't jump from a running car.

[reclaimerroger]

Battery voltage was 12.92 with no load.  Key off.  Turning key on voltage dropped to 12.35.  When I pushed starter button voltage went up to 12.60 because headlights went out.
I did not try to jump it with another battery.  I can try that tomorrow.  I thought the voltage was high enough at 12.92 but I will try anything.  Very frustrated.

[Daniel Meyer]

Check the starter button...repair instructions in shoptalk.

Also the harness as it goes into the relay...

[gordonv]

Starter switch also.

Give it a push start in 2nd gear. All electrical sounds good, but just because the lights go out, doesn't mean the starter connection is making contact to start the bike.

[Firefighter]

If the engine quit the same time the starter quit, I would suspect the starter solenoid. Located in the right side cover, has battery and starter wires along with fuse and plug connections. Take apart, make sure its not burnt up. If not, use a test light or multi meter and test for voltage and ground all the way from the battery to the starter. Let us know.

[reclaimerroger]

Thanks for all the replies.  I mentioned in an earlier thread but forgot to mention it here.  I was riding when the bike just quit.  Had to trailer it home.  Fortunately only 8  miles from home.  I don't think the starter button would cause that but I will take it apart today.

[Chrisj CMA]

Check ground connection to the engine and tightness of the battery cables.  Make sure all these connections are clean and dry

[reclaimerroger]

OK I'm in it up to my elbows.  Is the starter relay the small black box under the right side cover.  About 2 inches square with a plug-in on top with four connections and a 30 amp fuse.  If so it has two connections on front with Allen head cap screws.  On one side I get 12+ volts with key off.  The other side get nothing with key on or off or pushing starter button with key on.  Is that what it should be doing.  Is there some way for me to test it or did I just do that.  If I am on the wrong track help me get going in the right direction.  I wouldn't think the starter relay failing would stop the engine while I was running down the road.  As you can tell I'm not very familiar with the Valk.  Just know I love it.
Thanks again guys for the guidance.

[Thunderbolt]

When you press the starter button do you "feel" the solenoid click?  And yes that is the solenoid.  This is where I suggested you look in the other thread.  The 30A main fuse is there on top of the solenoid.  Pull it out and check the fuse blades and see if they look clean and the connectors that the blades mate with is usually where the trouble lies if indeed it is burned or corroded.  I am still a little confused, you said the bike quit while driving it.  Had a friend riding with me that had the same thing and his was the fuse blown and the connections burned.  Again you might be able to clean the connections and get it to work.  My wife's standard was failing to start, the problem was inside the solenoid, it would click and you could feel it operate, mechanically it was working, but electrically it was not.  Replacing the solenoid fixed the problem.  You can probably push start as I described in the other thread or turn the key on, make sure the bike is in neutral and short across the two terminals with the allen screws and the starter will turn.  That is the purpose of the solenoid to short those two terminals internally.  If the solenoid clicks when you press the starer button or if one of the small wires goes to 12V when you press the starter button this indicates that the starter button is not the problem.  If you don't hear or feel the click and none of the leads go to 12V then your starter button is at fault.  If your lights come on and your neutral light comes on there is at least some path to 12V that should allow the bike to fire and run.
 

[reclaimerroger]

Thanks Thunderbolt.  Yes it quit while I was riding it.  The 30 amp fuse tests good and looks good.  No discoloration on blades.  I will try jumping the solenoid like you suggested.  I can't really feel the solenoid click but I don't have good feeling in my hands and my ears aren't so good either.  I'm 72.  I had my head as close to the solenoid as I could get it and I still couldn't swear that was where the click was coming from.  But I couldn't see anything else in there that I thought it could be from.  I didn't think the solenoid failing would make the bike quit while I was riding.  I will try jumping the solenoid and report back.  Thanks again.

[reclaimerroger]

Starter cranks strongly but engine doesn't fire when I short across the solenoid contacts.  Does this mean the solenoid is bad plus another problem somewhere that caused engine to stop originally while I was riding?

[Ricky-D]

Did you have the key "on" when you "short across the solenoid contacts".

Could be a problem with the kill switch on the handle bars.

***

[reclaimerroger]

Yes key was on fuel was on and choke was closed.  No fire.  Well I couldn't actually check plugs while doing all this but engine didn't fire.

[Firefighter]

Did you unplug the connector on the top of the solenoid, think its red (been a while), but you squeeze it and pull it apart, this is where burn or dirty connections can be. There are several connectors that can be burned in this location.

[Chrisj CMA]

Starter cranks strongly but engine doesn't fire when I short across the solenoid contacts.  Does this mean the solenoid is bad plus another problem somewhere that caused engine to stop originally while I was riding?

IT USUALLY MEANS NOT ENOUGH AMPS IN THE BATTERY

[reclaimerroger]

I did unplug the connector on top of the solenoid and it was in good shape. I put some dielectric grease on it and plugged it back in.  Also the fuse was in good shape.

[reclaimerroger]

The battery is showing almost 13 volts and turning the starter very strongly.  I cranked it for 10 to 15 seconds three times to make sure it had time to get fuel.  Still not attempt to fire.

[Thunderbolt]

Check the voltage while cranking the engine, if it drops below 11 volts the battery is suspect.  Try jumping it from a non running car with a good battery.  BUT BE VERY CAREFUL with the positive lead, don't short it to the frame. 

[pancho]

Jump the kill switch

[Daniel Meyer]

Any work done on the bike lately?

[reclaimerroger]

Thanks for all the suggestions.  Won't have time to work on it today.
Don't think any work was done on bike lately.  I just acquired it.  Rode it 20 mi. last week no problems.  When I went for the next ride a couple of days later it quit after 8 mi.
I will check battery voltage while cranking as soon as I can but it was really turning over strongly.
The kill switch tested ok with ohm meter but I will try jumping it.
Could a bad bank angle sensor cause the problems?

[Bone]

They will turn over fast but not fire the ignition. It fools most of us. Most auto places (AutoZone) will load test the battery for you call them and ask to save yourself a trip.

[Raverez]

Probably a silly question but, is the fuel petcock on or off?

[Daniel Meyer]

Could a bad bank angle sensor cause the problems?

It could if it fell off it's holder...

[Firefighter]

I would probably check spark, at the spark plug, guess we don't know for sure if its fuel or fire. If there is no fire ground the battery to the frame and make sure the frame ground is good. Valks are bad about loosing frame ground where ignition parts are grounded. Engine quit same time as starter made me think starter solenoid and fuse wiring problem.

[Robert]

Did you have the key "on" when you "short across the solenoid contacts".

Could be a problem with the kill switch on the handle bars.

***

Could be a problem with the kill switch on the handle bars.

[reclaimerroger]

  I have given up.  Tried everything suggested here and still won't crank.  Turning to a professional.  I will post what was discovered when I get it back.
Thanks for all the suggestions.

[pancho]

looking forward to hearing what was found,, pretty sure several others are too

[Michvalk]

I would bet the starter solenoid is bad. It won't pass voltage to the run circuit..bet ya, bet ya!

[pancho]

I don't know,, that red wire supplies a lot more than the run circuit, and he said "All electrics work but the starter wont' engage"....................  I'm thinking more stand switch/tip sensor/kill switch wiring  type problem.