MY REBUILDABLE U-JOINT

[Jeff K]

Zerk  Zerk  Zerk  Zerk  Zerk  Zerk  Zerk  Zerk 

Beat me to it!! 

[tank_post142]

outside to outside of c-clips is 1.62" three days from purchase to my front door $20.00 each free shipping!  
cap dia. 0.79 ,  overall cap to cap outside 2.337"

[Free Pass]

AN UPDATE ON MY REBUILDABLE U-JOINT
  Always said that I did not want to get into the u-joint business.  I think we have come up with a plan where the members can deal directly with the drive line company.  Where it would be a win-win situation for everybody.  I spoke with my machinest the day before yesterday.  I went thru the whole run down with him.  I asked if he would be interested in building these joints and supplying the VRCC members directly.  He said yes.  More on that in a minute. Today I spoke with a VRCC administrator, specifically, Carl Holmes.  Where the VRCC would get a yearly advertising fee from the drive line company.  Will talk with Willow in Belle Aire on this some more next week. 
  Ron, at Drive Line Express, expressed the fact that he would need 4 things to get started.
     1.  One core drive shaft (the only thing that needs to be good are the splines going into u-joint)
     2.  Transmission output shaft (again, only the splines have to be good.)
With these he would make a jig to machine the u-joint housings. 
     3.  Six core u-joints (have to be able to be rebuildable)
One of the u-joints he wants to experiment and change the 90 degree angle at the bottom of the cut.
He wants to make this a radius for more strength.  Also on the u-joint, he wants to do away with the grease zerk

     

[Free Pass]

CONTINUATION OF UDATE.  RAN OUT OF TYPING SPACE
He wants to install a small aluminum grease zerk.  The other five joints, he wants to rebuild and have on the shelf so that he can ship the same day that he gets the order.   Providing that the ujoint is rebuildable. 
   4.  He needs a complete interchange of what this u-joint will fit.  We know the Valk (97-2003). Needs to know what years  of the Goldwing will it fit.  Needs the models and the years.  With this he thinks he can build this joint to your door for $100 (not incl shipping)
just an example, he can buy this joint wholesale for $8-10 in large quanities.
  Guys I need your help.  Can we see if we can come up with these things?  You have my email.  They have called me into work for 3 days, Sun, Mon and Tues.  Leaving for Belle Aire Wed  nite.  Riding across Nev in the cool of the nite.  I will have my lap tap with me.
Free Pass        Let's git 'er dun...             

[Valker]

OK, I'm confused. If he is setting up to machine the housings, why does he need the core housing? Would we have to have a good yoke for him to rebuild for the $100, or would this just something we can buy without exchange?
Thanks, sorry for my lack of understanding.

[Free Pass]

Valker, yes, it would be exchange basis only.  your core would have to be a good rebuildable core.  Once he has received your good rebuildable core, he will just ship you one that he has off of the shelf.  The initial five cores that we need to come up with, will already be rebuilt, setting on the shelf.  Some how, beg, borrow, steal or donate, we've got to come up with 5 initial cores.  For example, maybe Pinwall, the motorcycle dismantler, may have a few of these that are not good enough for retail sales laying on his shelf that we could get fairly cheap.  JUST THINKING.
Free Pass

[Thunderbolt]

I have one that has a little play, saving for an emergency.  Put me on the list.  I'll email you for shipping instructions when the time comes.  I know you are Inzane bound right now.

[Valker]

OK. I think I get it. I thought he wanted the splines so that he could actually CNC the whole yoke too.

[Willow]

For example, maybe Pinwall, the motorcycle dismantler, may have a few of these that are not good enough for retail sales laying on his shelf that we could get fairly cheap. 

My guess is that Pinwall will want to sell all they have at retail.

You may have better luck making an appeal to VRCC members who are holding a marginal joint as a backup. 

[gordonv]

I'm checking with a couple of local boys to try to get their failled yokes.

I've my engine/trans I could donate the output shaft from, but the axle is sold already.

I think the issue with regards to having some extras on the shelf, allows him to make multiples at one time, rather than one (keep costs down), charge a core (I hope he does), ship the part when ordered, and give the core charge back after receipt of a good yoke.


Will get back to you.

[RonW]

Your machinist might have a potential market for all shaft drive bikes that don't have replaceable U-joints or convenient zerks. I'm still of the belief though that initial testing should be more extensive, something like having 5 high mileage riders trial run the modified u-joints for whatever number of miles.

[gordonv]

I'm still of the belief though that initial testing should be more extensive, something like having 5 high mileage riders trial run the modified u-joints for whatever number of miles.

I would agree. However, I feel these testers will be those who currently have their bike down with u-joint failure, and haven't been able to get a replacement, and want to get back on the road.

The others will wait, and get the ones from Honda when (if) they come.

As for the life, well isn't that the whole issue? The u-joint is replaceable for $20, and you can do it yourself, after the original modification. For $100, over a $70-$100 replacement yoke from Honda, that is rebuildable, will appeal to a lot of people.

I always liked Volvo cars, everything I had to do on the car was repairable. You didn't take the wiper motor out and throw it away, but rebuilt it instead.

[tank_post142]

Your machinist might have a potential market for all shaft drive bikes that don't have replaceable U-joints or convenient zerks. I'm still of the belief though that initial testing should be more extensive, something like having 5 high mileage riders trial run the modified u-joints for whatever number of miles.

the ujoint has millions of miles on it and the yoke has the same. as long as the machining is done properly this is a no brainer.

[RonW]

I feel these [ U-joint] testers will be those who currently have their bike down with u-joint failure, and haven't been able to get a replacement, and want to get back on the road.

Yes, the best of both worlds.

I always liked Volvo cars, everything I had to do on the car was repairable. You didn't take the wiper motor out and throw it away, but rebuilt it instead.

Fine point and the same business model of our machinist. Incidentally, if your neck of the woods hasn't become third world yet, you'll probably won't appreciate how rare this type of mentality is getting to be. Over here, there's been an exodus of third world people who've bought their third world mentality over with them never mind it being a prime reason why they high tailed it out their home country. I had a key shop cut an extra key for me, but as soon as I overheard the bozo behind the counter ask his co-worker (paraphrasing) "how do you cut a double edged key," I well you know. To his credit he was able to comprehend the concept of doing one edge of the key at a time, the key shop didn't own dealer machine. But the dummy neglected to wire brush the tip of the key blank and the key didn't go in until I filed the tip myself.

the ujoint has millions of miles on it and the yoke has the same. as long as the machining is done properly this is a no brainer.

My 2¢ had to do with exposing unpredictables, if any. You knows, when you add on or grind off material from the original design of a moving part and so on.

[Old Geezer Richard]

 Hey Free Pass , I have a spare u-joint here at the house and I wanna try and have it rebuilt here in SA , Tx ... we have some good drive shaft shops here because of all the 4-wheeling around here ... I have called some of the auto parts stores around me to buy the u-joint and these Knuckle Heads just can't find that PUJ # 392 u-joint ... they have to have a model of truck and what year to run that info thru their computers  ...  I sent you a PM hope you get this in time before you leave for Inzane , let me know when you got the time so I can get started on this rebuilt .... ALSO , do I have to give the machinist any spec's as to how to make the # 392 u-joint adapt to my Valk yoke ? Thanks the Geezer

[KSDragonRider]

Sorry to bring this back up, but is this still going on?  Can I ship the sloppy joint off someplace with a Beny can i get a rebuilt joint?

[WamegoRob]

I believe this is the place that did the work for Free Pass.. you could give them a call:

http://local.redding.com/drive+line+express+of+redding.9.12082912p.home.html

[Jabba]

Here... I'll chime in a little on this now.  My thought's and $4.95 will buy you a Starbucks coffee.

I just replaced a U-Joint in my IS when I got back from Eureka Springs.  Retail $181.00  I ordered one from HDL.  $140 delivered.  I bought one at the dealer after a massive beat down on the price... $139.

Rebuilding them seems cost effective now.  And being able to replace the joint for $25 seems like a GREAT deal.

However... I believe that the inner part of the yoke, on mine was worn.  IMO that makes it NOT a candidate for rebuild, and if you have the $$ invested in a rebuilt one, it's a way for it to fail that trashes your investment. 

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,45497.0.html

I probably had a RARE failure.  I think it was caused by LAST years driveshaft and pinion cup lack of maintenance failure.

YMMV.

I have a spare on the shelf now... should anyone NEED it.

Jabba

[Ricky-D]

Yep, it's the splines you have to worry about when reusing a rebuild u-joint.....

***

[KSDragonRider]

I have 2 sitting on my bench now that everything is good except the joint. I just put my spare on the bike so am now with out a spare.

In reading i saw that Jimmy had one made for $90 bucks and is rebuild-able for 20 bucks.

to me that is a heck of a good deal. Just wanted to see if any of you guys were still using these, buying these or if the guy was even still doing it.

[Jabba]

I have 2 sitting on my bench now that everything is good except the joint. I just put my spare on the bike so am now with out a spare.

In reading i saw that Jimmy had one made for $90 bucks and is rebuild-able for 20 bucks.

to me that is a heck of a good deal. Just wanted to see if any of you guys were still using these, buying these or if the guy was even still doing it.

Seems to me that ANY Joint and Clutch (driveshaft) shop could do it for you.

Jabba

[KSDragonRider]

I have 2 sitting on my bench now that everything is good except the joint. I just put my spare on the bike so am now with out a spare.

In reading i saw that Jimmy had one made for $90 bucks and is rebuild-able for 20 bucks.

to me that is a heck of a good deal. Just wanted to see if any of you guys were still using these, buying these or if the guy was even still doing it.

Seems to me that ANY Joint and Clutch (driveshaft) shop could do it for you.

Jabba

Yeah, our only real option is Inland Truck.  I have had them work on driveshafts for my Jeep, super high priced, and work was really no better than i could have done at home.

Thats kinda why I was trying to ask people that had already bought from that guy if he was still doing it, or if it was ever fully set up from a year ago. I do thank you for the advice though, but if someone is set up, they are going to be able to do it cheaper.

[Thespian]

 Looks like the best and quickest solution. If it ever fails again the fix will be even less expensive. 

[58Woody]

Has anyone suggested using a zerk on the end cap that requires a needle grease gun tip ?

[crow]

A little off topic, but... Its been my experience; to drill .015 under size of the reamer.  Use lots of oil when reaming.  A press fit in steel, NO more than .002. And thats pretty tight.  Less for ductile (nodular) iron. a mil more for alum.  When pressing, don't use anti sieze, ect.  Use a product called dry slide, or a molybdenum disulfide powder. rub the powder on the part to be pressed with your fingers.

[58Woody]

I think that I have an old  (bad) u joint in my garage and would love to get a rebuildable one for my trike.
How can I help make this happen ?

[cantom]

Is this shop still doing this mod?

Personally, I'd prefer to remove my u-joint over the winter and send him my specific unit to be rebuilt over the winter. The issue with his cores is that they are going to tend to be from high mileage bikes and thus possibly have more worn splines than my bike does.

I didn't get that one point...he wants to do away with the zerk fitting????
WTH...that's the whole point of this, a U-joint that can be greased...right?

[cantom]

Sorry to bring this back up, but is this still going on?  Can I ship the sloppy joint off someplace with a Beny can i get a rebuilt joint?

I just called the shop in Redding. It was him.

Due to lack of demand, he's not doing any more.

Too much work for the few that wanted it.