Trailering advice (MC pulling trailer)

[Brewer]

Hello All you wise riders,

I am looking for guidance on pulling a trailer with a Valk.
What makes a good configuration?
How much weight on the tongue vs total weight?
What is a good weight target?

Looking at this:
http://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/4605847317.html

[Oss]

That is a big one, many members have pulled them cma1, clint come to mind right away

power wise....no problem

be aware that your stopping distance increases   a whole lot

backing up is an art form

W I N D Y days out west may cause you to have hand/shoulder pain from holding on for dear life

of course windy is relative  to me 50 + is windy
30-50 is getting uncomfortable but tolerable

riding n/s on the front range summer afternoons you are probably used to that

285/24 in wind gave my friend Bearinthe House fits and he just had a regular trailer
We were 2 up with a big bag on the luggage rack and we felt the bike moving pretty good

I have a turbo+2 bushtec trailer by the way

[Brewer]

All good points.

My 'other car' is a suburban and I have pulled a trailer regularly for years.  I am looking for the 'science' part of pulling a trailer with a MC. Not sure I want to take this path yet

Cheers

[Rams]

I won't tell you I'm the most experienced trailer person here but, will tell you what my experience is.     My trailer is an older trailer, rated at 650 lbs load (I think).    When I first got it, I pulled it around for a couple of weeks empty, just to get the feel of it.    Then I started putting weight in the trailer.    Never got up to the max load limit, I'm not about to put that much weight in it.     The Valkyrie has plenty of power to pull this trailer and excellent stopping power but, you have to remember that you are limited on tire traction/cohesion.    I like to keep about 50 lbs of tongue weight on the bike.    But regardless of how much weight you load on a trailer, keep the front slightly heavier than the rear of the trailer.     Always remember, that trailer and it's weight are gonna push you on stops and while cornering.    BTW, I also run dark side on the rear.

Once you get used to the trailer, you'll need to remind yourself it's back there once in a while, that will normally occur just prior to taking a corner or curve too tight and getting a trailer tire curbed or off into the ditch/off the pavement.     Although I have not had any serious issues, I'm quite sure this situation has the potential to become serious so don't forget it's back there.  

Just as I'm sure you already know, Valkyries don't come with a reverse.     Adding a pull behind to your Valkyrie will make parking spot selection even more critical.    You don't want to have to back up, up hill with a loaded trailer.    I've avoided that so far, hope to never screw that one up.     I watched a couple on a V Twin who weren't so selective.    Don't be that guy.

After I got my trailer, I quit putting anything on my Valkyrie.    The trailer holds more than I can justify taking with me and I like the bike naked anyway.    Instead of having that thirty minute off load time when I get to where I'm headed, I simply open it up and get what I want, close the hatch.    When departing, I open the hatch, place my bag(s) in the trailer, close the hatch and ride.   Honestly, that trailer was one of my best investments.

[Gavin_Sons]

I pull a cycle mate with mine. I try to load most the weight over the wheels with 20 pounds or so on the tounge. This is usually just the cooler with water and sodas that has its own bracket just in front of the trailer on the tounge. Have pulled it several times with no issues. I do not use safety chains on mine just because if it comes off id rather replace the trailer instead of the trailer bike and possibly my wife. Let that trailer go dont want it attatched to the bike if it comes off the ball.

[cma1]

the camp trailers weigh around 400 lbs. (my kwik kamp) and you will load a couple hundred more in them. make sure you even the load up side to side and with that trailer you will want to look at around 50 lbs. tongue weight when loaded. I sit the hitch on a bathroom scale and keep an eye on it while loading, if I go over 50 lbs I start moving little things to the rear till I get it back into balance. you are looking for around 10% of your total trailer weight on the hitch. I run 35 lbs in my tires empty and 50 loaded (look on the sidewall of your tires for max pressure)

tow it for a few days empty and get the feel of it, once you do it will come naturally, just remember you are about 10 feet longer, compensate when turning in and out of gas pumps and stop signs. don't try and hot rod the trailer, it ain't a hot rod, take life easy, tow around 70 to 75 with new tires.

you will find the trailer actually stabilizes the bike in the wind. I towed a kwik kamp for many years and a cargo trailer for the past few. I've since sold all of them, built a trike and stay in military quarters when I travel.

hope that helps

[Brewer]

Thanks all. That should cover my basic questions.

Cheers
Brewer

[cma1]

there are a lot of good guys in Colorado, I am in grand jct. maybe you come by for coffee someday, I do free carb balances for members.

[Paxton]

Brewer;
Seems a little bit pricey, but It'll work great! If you want it go for it!

Mine tracks well at high speeds, especially when fully packed. In the photos, you'd also see the thick chrome piece
following the lines of the rear fender. https://plus.google.com/photos/103917731019176896112/albums/5783500279711372833
That's the best hitch (IMO). They sell between $200 - $300. Then you need a harness for the trailer.
BTW, the hitch shown is compatible with any model Valkyrie.

NOTE: The trailer you are considering is light enough that you'd forget is behind you!

[sandy]

I tow a Roll-a-Home tent trailer. #300 lb empty, #400+ loaded. Behind the Valk it was tough to stop it in the rain. Behind the Wing it's not much of an issue.

[cma1]

you might consider googling kwik kamp for sale and see what you find. the kwik kamp is far superior to the one you are looking at and can be had for about the same money.

[cookiedough]

yah 10% of trailer weight for tongue is a good rule of thumb as said.

I notice even pulling my 350lb. triton atv trailer with ONLY one ATV weighing 650lbs. so total weight of ONLY 1000 lbs. with my full sized 1/2 ton truck that if I do not get enough tongue weight meaning moving the ATV up further past the center of the wheels for more tongue weight, not only over bumps does the ATV trailer bounce a tad on the tongue upward meaning not enough weight, but too far back on the trailer for the ATV and the newer triton ATV88 trailer handles like crap swaying back and forth at hwy. speeds. 

So, moral of my story, don't go too light in the front end better to be a tad heavier will feel better behind the bike and not as squirrely while riding the cycle.  Too heavy though in front hitch area and could affect braking just a tad but I'd rather have that than be too light of a load in the front end making handling/swaying side to side an issue all the time.

[larryh0841]

I pulled trailers with motorcycles for over 30 years.  Mostly camper trailers (Bunkhouse) after they started making them.  I have also built a number of trailers and have found that the relationship of the distance from the ball to the center of the axle to the width of the axle, center to center of the wheels is more important than the weight on the tongue.   This ratio should be at least 1 1/2 to 1.  Remember that basic laws of physics determine that the trailer will always want to go where you don't want to.  Once in motion it will try to continue on that path unless acted upon by an outside force.  Your bike is that outside force.  As for no safety chains....that is a totally irresponsible attitude.  I have had trailers come unhooked from the bike at speed twice.  Once it was hitch failure and once it  was because I did not padlock the ball latch down.  Both times I was able to stop with no problems and no one else was at risk of a trailer running off the road or into oncoming traffic.  Use extra caution in the rain.........stopping is a real problem.  If you mount your cooler on the outside of the trailer, especially on the tongue, you will be stopping a lot to buy more ice.  It is really hot behind those pipes.  Try to keep the cooler inside the trailer if possible.   Ride safe and enjoy the benefits of pulling a trailer.
                                    Larry

[BRIANinONTARIO]

We pull a 20 cu. ft Sarasota Trailer behind our Valk. We had the tongue lengthened & carry a Koolatron 'fridge there, wired into the bike's electricals. Tongue weight is maxed at 55 lbs.
We recently rode 4000 miles around Canada's Maritime Provinces, many days in heavy rain, and had no issues.
Except in low speed maneuvering, we hardly know it is there. Remember though, not to cut your corners tight. I once watched a trailer hit a high curb at the gas pumps & flip over, dumping the bike with it. For this reason (and others) I would highly recommend a swivel hitch.

[The emperor has no clothes]

I pull a cycle mate with mine. I try to load most the weight over the wheels with 20 pounds or so on the tounge. This is usually just the cooler with water and sodas that has its own bracket just in front of the trailer on the tounge. Have pulled it several times with no issues. I do not use safety chains on mine just because if it comes off id rather replace the trailer instead of the trailer bike and possibly my wife. Let that trailer go dont want it attatched to the bike if it comes off the ball.

Ive seen boat trailers come unlatched and go across the lane and cause huge accidents. Granted a pull behind isn't nearly as big or heavy, but if yours came loose and killed a family in a vehicle you would have to live with that the rest of your life.

[cookiedough]

Yah, I'd be hooking up the safety chains as well.  What I do is cross the chains 2-3 times (wrap around each other) to make them shorter or if already short chains just wrap/cross them over once before hooking up to the bike or any other pickup, etc..  If short enough, they might not bump the rear of the cycle when slowing down at all.   Now if you are going up a slight hill/incline,  slow down gently and then the trailer won't bump into the rear of the cycle/pulling vehicle at all.  Just on the downward hill might become an issue more so.

I've never had my ATV or boat trailer ever become unhooked going down the road, but am darn sure safety chains could come to a complete safe stop if need by especially if crossing the chains on bottom 1-3 times depending on length of safety chains.  I'd hate to see 2000 lbs. become unhooked crossing the center lane and hitting another vehicle or bystander alongside the road. 

In WI I think it is a law to have safety chains as well as carrying along a spare tire along with having all items on a trailer strapped down secured.  I know the landscaping company who hauls in an open trailer all his riding lawnmowers here in town got a hefty ticket for not securing/strapping down his eqmt. going from job site to job site.    Then again,  he also flipped over his trailer on the road going into a ditch and doubt the staps would have prevented all his expense riding lawnmowers from flying off the trailer, but they might have slowed them down a lot from becoming a projectile missile.

[jshram]

Here's my rig that I'm taking cross country in 10 days....   The Uni-Go is heavily modified.  I completely rebuilt the suspension, different shocks, built a new swing arm, changed the pivot point, went from 1/2" travel to 3.5" travel with rebound dampened shocks.. then I reinforced the complete frame thorughout.. powdercoated, painted the tub and, most important, bought the sport-bike hitch from http://www.thirdwheeltrailers.com/.  I've spent much time on the phone with the owner, Juan, about how to modify the suspension and stiffen the frame.   His trailers are coil spring shocked and are superb...  I happened to have my old Uni-Go (an orignal Aussie one)....  I've had this puppy to 120... it is rock solid at 110, takes fast sweepers, or slow twisties leaning the girl all the way over. 

I hope to put a hitch on the Valk and use the trailer with it too, though the sportbike hitch (through the axle) won't work on the valk, gotta use a traditional hitch.. too bad, the sport bike hitch is superior.

http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jshrrh/slideshow/connie

[Marinakorp]

You should have not problem towing that rig...I just got back from "Peach Fest" in Scranton PA Towing my Roll a Home...FULLY LOADED


Some things.

Do not exceed your hitch weight
Do use chains - crossed
Grease the BAll (some place two pieces of Eax paper... not my thing)

My rig prefers to be a little tongue heavy. I usually pack fairly neutral.. then place a cooler on my front rack with the Beer / food / Ice for the short trips. Generally, only for a day or so. I would pick up on the road if longer than that.

Pictures later...


I usually keep the RPM's up a bit when riding... burn a little more fuel, but works for me
I am loaded HEAVY... and the Valk does not falter.

60-65 in 4th Gear can pull up and down hills with ease.

I carry an Ez-up, cooler, grill, camping chairs, Deep Cycle marine battery, lighting, Leveling blocks, Levelers, tools and most every other convenience (except a Head)

THe comments I get at the camp grpound are priceless. I usually have to assist other campers with gear they forgot (like tire inflators for their Kids bikes).

Take it slow. Ride around the block a few times to get the feel.
Take it on a local highway for a short while... then check the bearings. they shoud not be super hot... warm is not bad... but "ouch hot" after a short ride is BAD.

regardles... re-pack the bearings and replace if you can before going on a real trip. Kinda like changing the oil on a new bke.. you know it is done and done right.

Have fun, post pics.