carb rack dismantle and new carb o-rings - what a pain!

[jshram]

Fuel rail o-rings were leaking so I decided to install the redeye o-ring kit while I had the carbs apart to replace the o-rings.  In the kit you get a special tool to separate the carbs as the instructions say that they are stuck together with galvanic action.  Boy, was he right!  My carbs looked perfect but the long bolts were all powder white covered and it took me a couple hours to figure out how to gently separate (I use the word gently with a bit of sarcasm) the carbs. 

So, my next question is the stainless dowels - removing them tips anyone?  The kit comes with replacement acetal (plastic) dowels to eliminate the galvanic action, but you have to get the old ones out first... crap.

Inside of the carbs look great, very clean.  Recorded the jetting and noted that the PO installed the 6x6 pipes but did not re-jet, hence the bluing on the pipes (too hot).  So, I'm re-jetting to cut my Cobra losses and make it as good as I can... I love the Cobra sound, so there's that, they are staying.

This is a big job.. one that will take several careful evenings and one not lightly engaged... anyway, lookng for experienced advice on removing the dowels....  and any other tips for a man with six carbs on the table.

John

[rugguy]

I soaked mine in WD 40, attached vice grips and gently rotated to break them free. Heat may help too but I didn't have to do that.

[Gunner]

I used Kroil with a little heat from a small butane torch.  I let the Kroil work for a couple of days and then I crushed the one end of the dowel with a vice grip, heated the area around the dowel with the butane torch, a little more Kroil, and then used a metal rod to pound out against the crushed end of the dowel.  Worked well for me.

Gunner

[Bighead]

Those Cobras would have probably blued anyway.

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

Those Cobras would have probably blued anyway.

Agree... Single wall header is going to blue same with the Two-Brothers.

[Bighead]

Those Cobras would have probably blued anyway.

Agree... Single wall header is going to blue same with the Two-Brothers.

Yup.

[heavyd]

I used a self tapping screw the right size and threaded it into the dowel until it had a good bite then used a punch and hammer from the other side to drive it out. Terrifying but it worked, I couldn't move mine with vicegrips even after soaking in penetrating oil for days.

[jshram]

I finally ended up using a drill-bit smaller than the outside diameter of the dowel...  scary, but it worked.. eventually it spun those babies right out of there...

Now the re-assembly.  I did the re-assembly, recreated the rack (I think I needed erector set style HUGE blowup pictures because I must have re-assembled that puzzle a bunch of times until I got it right).  Then came the stuffing into the motor (not easy) and then finding all the hoses and sh1t.. tried to put the airbox on and am having difficulty so I am going to gut the smog crap to make more room in there.

All I can say is you could not do this without the instructions that Redeye supplied with his kit, man is that thorough!

So, beast is not running.. maybe today or tomorrow... sigh. every project takes 3 times longer than you anticipate.

JH

[Attic Rat]

you can also use a tap to pull them out

[Steve K (IA)]

So, can someone who knows tell me if the gaskets for the carb bowls come with the carb kit from RedEye?  I can't see them listed with the kit contents.  Don't know if these will need replacing as I haven't started my carb removal and cleaning.  Just want to make sure I have everything I'll need before tearing into this project.

[Willow]

So, can someone who knows tell me if the gaskets for the carb bowls come with the carb kit from RedEye? ...

RedEye sells a separate kit that is a set of bowl gaskets.

[Pappy!]

On the more difficult dowels (I just did this job about a month ago) I collapsed one side of the roll pin with vice grips. That immediately reduced the overall outside diameter and broke them free. I then rotated them out. If I needed to do it again I did it as they came out. Watch which way you rotate them out after doing this. Fairly easy method.

[jshram]

No bowl gaskets in the kit...  I should have ordered them, but didn't. They aren't leaking and the motor runs nicely.  I gutted the smog crap with instructions from the board.  Again, not a simple job, but really cleans things up under there.

I also replaced the intake o-ring gaskets and I replaced the exhaust gaskets.  The stockers were smushed flat-flat-flat...  I also took this opportunity to re-jet the bike per instructions found here on the board... so far, it seems very nice... I have yet to take it on a big spin.   But the ORIGINAL reason I did all this was because the fuel rail O-rings were failing and leaking.. but if you're going to split the rack to replace, you might as well do the rest of the stuff.

No more Valkyrie parts on the garage floor.. all assembled.  Ahhhhhh.....finally.

[jshram]

No decel popping!  Clear acceleration and no leaky-leaky!  Per jetting recommendations  for the Cobra pipes I did take the intake baffle out of the airbox and had no ill effect, though it does make the bike louder for the rider... I still love the sound of these 6x6 pipes.

Very happy with the results.  The bike even idles very smoothly with just the Redeye brass strip tuning mewthod.. clear 600rpm idle.. nice.

So nice to have my bike back.   

[Pappy!]

Feels good doesn't it! I did this job about 6 weeks ago as well. Replaced every single rubber item. Worth it in the end for peace of mind.

[wiggydotcom]

Great job and thanks for sharing your experience! If it's not a typo, that 600rpm idle sounds pretty low. I would take it up to 900rpm just for oil output reasons.

[jshram]

OK.. I think you're right so I'll bump up the idle.. it needs it to start cleanly every time, but I do like the low idle, it is just cool.

[Willow]

OK.. I think you're right so I'll bump up the idle.. it needs it to start cleanly every time, but I do like the low idle, it is just cool.

 

For what it's worth, jshram, I idle mine at around 750 RPM'  Always have.  My Standard has about 180,000 miles on it now.

I just don't like the sound of an engine idling at 1,000 RPM and don't see any good reason for it.

[wiggydotcom]

OK.. I think you're right so I'll bump up the idle.. it needs it to start cleanly every time, but I do like the low idle, it is just cool.

 

For what it's worth, jshram, I idle mine at around 750 RPM'  Always have.  My Standard has about 180,000 miles on it now.

I just don't like the sound of an engine idling at 1,000 RPM and don't see any good reason for it.

Also, for what it's worth, I'll give my two cents to someone if I see them doing something that might harm their bike. Honda spec for the Valkyrie is 900 rpm +/- 100.  Six hundred, as stated by the OP is quite a bit out of spec. A warm engine only puts out 11psi at PROPER idle. You could probably save money on oil if you shorted your oil fill a qt and a half-similar logic to me.

[Willow]

OK.. I think you're right so I'll bump up the idle.. it needs it to start cleanly every time, but I do like the low idle, it is just cool.

 

For what it's worth, jshram, I idle mine at around 750 RPM'  Always have.  My Standard has about 180,000 miles on it now.

I just don't like the sound of an engine idling at 1,000 RPM and don't see any good reason for it.

Also, for what it's worth, I'll give my two cents to someone if I see them doing something that might harm their bike. Honda spec for the Valkyrie is 900 rpm +/- 100.  Six hundred, as stated by the OP is quite a bit out of spec. A warm engine only puts out 11psi at PROPER idle. You could probably save money on oil if you shorted your oil fill a qt and a half-similar logic to me.

I acknowledge and appreciate your concern.  I too think 600 RPM may be a little low.

As to doing something that may harm my bike, I'm comfortable.  I'd say the 180,000 miles stands well against that fear.  Besides, 750 RPM is only 50 RPM below what Honda was recommending and I'm believe we're all pretty sure that the manufacturer's recommended lowest RPM is going to be a bit overstated.   

[wiggydotcom]

OK.. I think you're right so I'll bump up the idle.. it needs it to start cleanly every time, but I do like the low idle, it is just cool.

 

For what it's worth, jshram, I idle mine at around 750 RPM'  Always have.  My Standard has about 180,000 miles on it now.

I just don't like the sound of an engine idling at 1,000 RPM and don't see any good reason for it.

Also, for what it's worth, I'll give my two cents to someone if I see them doing something that might harm their bike. Honda spec for the Valkyrie is 900 rpm +/- 100.  Six hundred, as stated by the OP is quite a bit out of spec. A warm engine only puts out 11psi at PROPER idle. You could probably save money on oil if you shorted your oil fill a qt and a half-similar logic to me.

I acknowledge and appreciate your concern.  I too think 600 RPM may be a little low.

As to doing something that may harm my bike, I'm comfortable.  I'd say the 180,000 miles stands well against that fear.  Besides, 750 RPM is only 50 RPM below what Honda was recommending and I'm believe we're all pretty sure that the manufacturer's recommended lowest RPM is going to be a bit overstated.   

I agree you're probably just fine running 750, Carl. But 600 is roughly 33% under recommended idle. That's pushing it.  Ride safe.

[jshram]

Re-set at 800. 

Went on a long ride with the wife and the bike was super rich.  It actually would die out on full throttle.  Plugs dark... so, I put the stock jets back in, dropped the new needles one clip and put back the baffle.  Now it pulls all the way again.

Yes, you can change jets and needles with the rack in the bike and the tank on, took me about two hours.  I did change out the bowl screws for allen screws (a must.. make this change when you re-build the carbs).

I guess I need to dyno the bike.  and I'm at 6000 feet which doesn't help.

John