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Brake Question

Started by sdv003, Sat 09, May 2015, 18:37:58

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sdv003

I have an issue with the front brakes.  On stopping, I get a clunk and usually some buzzing.  It first showed up (that I noticed) when I removed the front wheel to replace the tire.  It appears to be caused by one of the pads moving when the brakes are applied.  The buzzing could be the pad vibrating.  The pin is through them, but there is enough play in the hole that the pin goes through that the pad will move.  The other end of the pad seems to be in the right place.  My questions:

Has anyone else seen this?

If so, what was the fix?

Anything else I should check?

Sounds like I should just replace the pads, but I want to be sure I didnt do something dumb first.

Tfrank59

Quote from: sdv003 on Sat 09, May 2015, 18:37:58
I have an issue with the front brakes.  On stopping, I get a clunk and usually some buzzing.  It first showed up (that I noticed) when I removed the front wheel to replace the tire.  It appears to be caused by one of the pads moving when the brakes are applied.  The buzzing could be the pad vibrating.  The pin is through them, but there is enough play in the hole that the pin goes through that the pad will move.  The other end of the pad seems to be in the right place.  My questions:

Has anyone else seen this?

If so, what was the fix?

Anything else I should check?

Sounds like I should just replace the pads, but I want to be sure I didnt do something dumb first.

Well since it started after the wheel removal/reinstall, it probably resulted from that. Assuming you did get your brake pads correctly installed in the caliper, it might be That you didn't do the correct sequence when reinstalling the front wheel.  There is an extensive write up in shoptalk on the correct procedure for tightening up the axle and the pinch bolts, as well as aligning the brakes in the process.  Valkyrie brakes clunk, because they are floating calipers (also discussed in shoptalk), and When the brakes are applied the holes in the rotors make a buzzing sound something like a cicada, but that's all normal, And it does it Even when the front wheel is properly installed.  Let us know what you find out...
-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, '02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...

Bighead

Quote from: Tfrank59 on Sat 09, May 2015, 18:50:21
Quote from: sdv003 on Sat 09, May 2015, 18:37:58
I have an issue with the front brakes.  On stopping, I get a clunk and usually some buzzing.  It first showed up (that I noticed) when I removed the front wheel to replace the tire.  It appears to be caused by one of the pads moving when the brakes are applied.  The buzzing could be the pad vibrating.  The pin is through them, but there is enough play in the hole that the pin goes through that the pad will move.  The other end of the pad seems to be in the right place.  My questions:

Has anyone else seen this?

If so, what was the fix?

Anything else I should check?

Sounds like I should just replace the pads, but I want to be sure I didnt do something dumb first.

When the brakes are applied the holes in the rotors make a buzzing sound something like a cicada, but that's all normal, And it does it Even when the front wheel is properly installed. 
I agree the clunck can be normal but I gotta call Bullstuff on this one I have over 130k on VALKYRIEs and have never once had the sound you describe. If something in your brakes are squealing like an insect screaming something is amiss.
1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing

Tfrank59

#3
It probably depends on what pads you're running –I'm running sintered metal, and the pads that were on the bike when I brought it I believe were Kevlar, which did not make that sound.  Sintered metal pads don't tear up the rotors, but they do make a whine, to me it sounds like a cicada, but I would add that it isn't loud--it's not like a whole swarm of cicadas!  :D
-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, '02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...

Chrisj CMA

Well, If you have the left fork too much out of alignment the rivets on the left rotor will hit the caliper.  So, I'm guessing that if you have the left fork just a tiny bit out of alignment maybe it (the caliper) only touches the rivets ever so slightly whenever the brakes are applied.  In any case, look and make sure the outer edge of the left fork lower is flush with the outer edge of the head of the axle.  In other words make sure it doesn't seem that the axle is sticking out any from the outer edge of the fork.

Farther

Quote from: Tfrank59 on Sat 09, May 2015, 21:10:10to me it sounds like a cicada, but I would add that it isn't loud--it's not like a whole swarm of cicadas!  :D
My experience with EBC pads and Hondline rotors.
Thanks,
~Farther

Paladin528

My VT1100T used to do it and since I put the EBC brakes on the front of the VALk it does it.  Buzzes like a cicada bug when the brakes are applied.
I believe it has to do with the EBC having 2 pucks per pad and the Honda ones having 3

sdv003

#7
Update: Redid the front end adjustment, no change.  After a thorough investigation, it appears that everything is normal.  What is happening is that when the brakes are released, the caliper relaxes sufficiently to permit the inboard pad to move "up and down" freely.  It is so free that when I pull the pin, the pad will just fall out most of the time.  The pad moves so that the top of the hole in the pad rests on the top of the pin.  When the brakes are applied, the pad slides and the bottom of the hole in the pad hits the bottom of the pin, making the clunking sound.  A small amount of brake grease on the back of the pad to get it to stick to the piston may be the answer.

As for the buzz, it reminds me of a bee, but I could see how one would think it is cicada sounding.  That sounds normal as well.  I am running sintered metal pads, btw.

N8171S

Make sure yu didn't lose the small flat spring that keeps tension on the pad so that they don't move around.

Bighead

Quote from: Tfrank59 on Sat 09, May 2015, 21:10:10
It probably depends on what pads you're running –I'm running sintered metal, and the pads that were on the bike when I brought it I believe were Kevlar, which did not make that sound.  Sintered metal pads don't tear up the rotors, but they do make a whine, to me it sounds like a cicada, but I would add that it isn't loud--it's not like a whole swarm of cicadas!  :D
I would guess the reason I don't or haven't heard it is I run OEM pads.
1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing

Tfrank59

Quote from: N8171S on Sun 10, May 2015, 19:26:44
Make sure yu didn't lose the small flat spring that keeps tension on the pad so that they don't move around.

:cooldude:  Kinda sounds like this might be the issue here?
-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, '02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...

sdv003

Sure does.  The retainer at the bottom of the caliper is there.  I can feel the clip at the top, but it sure isnt doing its job.  I'm going to pull the caliper and see if it can be fixed, otherwise, it gets replaced.

Ricky-D

I just use  short piece of plastic hose that fits over the pin, to keep pressure against the pads

so they don't rattle against the rotor. That clip fails pretty regularly and the hose lasts a

long time, since it's basically just a spacer.

***
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate

gordonv

Ricky, like a washer? How about a picture, I'm not sure where/how you are referring to it's use.
1999 Black with custom paint IS


Ricky-D

I cannot take a picture because the area is not easily accessed for viewing without removing the caliper itself.

The pin, the one that holds the pads in the caliper, and the one you have to remove the slotted screw in plug to get to,

is the pin I am referring to. If you look at the space between the pads (the opening) you will see the pin. I simply

placed a piece of plastic hose that will have an ID to allow a loose fit on the pin between the pads to act as a spring

to push the pads apart so that the clacking would cease from the looseness of the pads hitting the rotor. More like controlling the

looseness as opposed to actually pushing the pads apart with so much force as to push the pistons back into the caliper.

I did this a long time ago because the clacking was driving me crazy. Upon the next time when I remove the caliper

I will be sure to take a picture that will reveal what I did.

***
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate

Tfrank59

That's a really good idea – the clacking kind of driving me crazy too.  thanks
-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, '02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...

Tfrank59

Quote from: Ricky-D on Tue 12, May 2015, 07:50:50
I cannot take a picture because the area is not easily accessed for viewing without removing the caliper itself.

The pin, the one that holds the pads in the caliper, and the one you have to remove the slotted screw in plug to get to,

is the pin I am referring to. If you look at the space between the pads (the opening) you will see the pin. I simply

placed a piece of plastic hose that will have an ID to allow a loose fit on the pin between the pads to act as a spring

to push the pads apart so that the clacking would cease from the looseness of the pads hitting the rotor. More like controlling the

looseness as opposed to actually pushing the pads apart with so much force as to push the pistons back into the caliper.

I did this a long time ago because the clacking was driving me crazy. Upon the next time when I remove the caliper

I will be sure to take a picture that will reveal what I did.

***

I just did my 2 fronts--took 1/2" long piece(s) of 1/4 x 3/8 acrylic tubing, loosened the retaining pin (kept the pads from falling down, saves a lot of hassle), backed the pin out far enough to insert the tubing spacer, then screwed the pin back in tight.  didn't do the back yet (looks like the tubing spacer there should be about 5/8" long), 'cause I didn't feel like taking off the left saddle bag today. ;D
-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, '02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...

Tfrank59

Quote from: Tfrank59 on Tue 12, May 2015, 13:03:32
Quote from: Ricky-D on Tue 12, May 2015, 07:50:50
I cannot take a picture because the area is not easily accessed for viewing without removing the caliper itself.

The pin, the one that holds the pads in the caliper, and the one you have to remove the slotted screw in plug to get to,

is the pin I am referring to. If you look at the space between the pads (the opening) you will see the pin. I simply

placed a piece of plastic hose that will have an ID to allow a loose fit on the pin between the pads to act as a spring

to push the pads apart so that the clacking would cease from the looseness of the pads hitting the rotor. More like controlling the

looseness as opposed to actually pushing the pads apart with so much force as to push the pistons back into the caliper.

I did this a long time ago because the clacking was driving me crazy. Upon the next time when I remove the caliper

I will be sure to take a picture that will reveal what I did.

***

I just did my 2 fronts--took 1/2" long piece(s) of 1/4 x 3/8 acrylic tubing, loosened the retaining pin (kept the pads from falling down, saves a lot of hassle), backed the pin out far enough to insert the tubing spacer, then screwed the pin back in tight.  didn't do the back yet (looks like the tubing spacer there should be about 5/8" long), 'cause I didn't feel like taking off the left saddle bag today. ;D

Okay, little follow up here.  Got the girl out and within a half mile turned her back home to remove those tubing spacers ;D   Seems that acrylic tubing is a bit too stiff, or maybe it's I cut them too long, so that they caused the other ends of the pads to pivot in and rub the rotors all the time.  Not good.  So either use a softer tubing material (that compresses easier) or cut your spacers shorter (guess it depends too on the thickness of your pads?).  Or I wonder if a guy could just put a weak compression spring between the pads on the retainer pin?
-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, '02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...

sdv003

Update:

Finally got the spring clips in the mail.  Replaced both top and bottom clip.  No more noise, other than the cicadas.  I think it was the lower clip that was the culprit.

Tfrank59

Quote from: sdv003 on Fri 22, May 2015, 19:01:15
Update:

Finally got the spring clips in the mail.  Replaced both top and bottom clip.  No more noise, other than the cicadas.  I think it was the lower clip that was the culprit.

Thanks for the update. I guess I better order those and do the same thing for mine.
-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, '02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...