Inzane 17

Best way to remove screw without damage

Started by cogsman, Sun 17, May 2015, 08:42:02

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cogsman

Hi All,

Went to bleed the rear brakes and found this on teh rear fluid reservoir:



What's the best approach without damaging the reservoir? I hesitate to start tapping a screw removal tool into the hole for fear of breaking off the reservoir from its plastic mount.

pancho

Get a screwdriver with a NEW tip, remove the reservoir and support it properly (try to find something sturdy that is the right height that will fit alongside your bike so you don't need to remove the hose), use pressure, it will come out as it is only into plastic. Don't reuse the screw.
The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.

WintrSol

Correction: get a JIS type screwdriver, #2 size, and do what pahcho says. That is typical damage caused by a Phillips screwdriver, which do not match the cross-point screws used on most metric bikes.
98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service

Bighead

With it rounded out that much (if it were me ) I would go to lowes or Home Depot and get a set of easy outs (pretty cheap) put it in my drill and have it out in about 3 seconds then put a new screw in there. But that's just me.
1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing

hubcapsc

I have this POS screwdriver...



I use it to take of all my Valkyrie "phillips head" screws...



For example, I've removed and replace this one many many times:



If you can't easily find a JIS screwdriver (or you can only find expensive ones)
you can get a handle and tray full of weird bits at the autoparts store
for $5 or $7...

Real Phillips head screw drivers will eat up the screws on our reservoir caps...

-Mike

hubcapsc

Quote from: Bighead on Sun 17, May 2015, 09:17:32
With it rounded out that much (if it were me ) I would go to lowes or Home Depot and get a set of easy outs (pretty cheap) put it in my drill and have it out in about 3 seconds then put a new screw in there. But that's just me.

My screws were rusty when I got my bike. I looked around at fastener-houses
and only found black ones. I eventually submitted to $2.50 each from
HDL... hopefully someone knows a better solution... ACE maybe?

-Mike

Bighead

I had one that was boogered up and used the easy out and went to a fastener store that is local to me and took the original and they matched it perfect with a stainless one with an Allen head so I bought 8 and replaced them on both brake and clutch sides on both bikes and they guy charged me a whole dollar for all 8 ;)
I have used them many times for different bolts on the bikes when they round out or rust :cooldude:
1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing

old2soon

My Ace hdw has a good selection of metric fasteners and I've been able to save some money versus Honda. Keep in mind Honda uses some lengths of fasteners that MAY be between the standard lengths available to you. Agreed that Honda be way proud of a lot of their hardware.  :-X RIDE SAFE.
Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion

pancho

Quote from: WintrSol on Sun 17, May 2015, 09:13:31
Correction: get a JIS type screwdriver, #2 size, and do what pahcho says. That is typical damage caused by a Phillips screwdriver, which do not match the cross-point screws used on most metric bikes.

While that is the proper tool,, with the condition of the screw in question, he only needs to get a positive bite to get the screw removed.  I agree, it is a good idea to have the JIS.

Hey Mike,, find a bolt and screw place in your area, they will have the wide selections, and like Bighead said, those bolt and screw guys will usually give you small quantities for a buck or two,, I guess it's easier than writing out an invoice..   As long as the boss is not watching over his shoulder.
The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.

pancho

The area I live in had been heavy into manufacturing a few years ago, so there are still several bolt and screw places that have managed to keep their doors open,, not sure they would be as readily accessible in all areas.
The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.

WintrSol

Quote from: pancho on Sun 17, May 2015, 09:38:11
Quote from: WintrSol on Sun 17, May 2015, 09:13:31
Correction: get a JIS type screwdriver, #2 size, and do what pahcho says. That is typical damage caused by a Phillips screwdriver, which do not match the cross-point screws used on most metric bikes.

While that is the proper tool,, with the condition of the screw in question, he only needs to get a positive bite to get the screw removed.  I agree, it is a good idea to have the JIS.
Using the correct screwdriver, even with a screw that damaged, is surprisingly effective. That said, Sears and other hardware stores sell screw removal tools that are, essentially, reverse drills, so when you drill out the screw, it will actually back it out when it bites, unlike a standard drill and easy-out. They work even better with a hammer drill, as the hammer action helps loosen the threads. Then, try to find a screw with an Allen head - no more stripping out.
98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service

Jess from VA

I have a million L allen wrenches.  I'd just fool around till I found one I could gently tap down into the corroded hole. 

GOOSE

WHEN I HAVE A SCREW LIKE THAT, I TAKE THE TIP OF THE PHILLIPS HEAD AND DIP IT IN SOME MEDIUM DUTY GRINDING COMPOUND  >>  THE GRINDING COMPOUND REALLY KEEPS THE BIT FROM SLIPPING, AND YOU CAN PULL THAT SCREW RIGHT OUT.

O-B-1

#13
Quote from: WintrSol on Sun 17, May 2015, 09:13:31
Correction: get a JIS type screwdriver, #2 size, and do what pahcho says. That is typical damage caused by a Phillips screwdriver, which do not match the cross-point screws used on most metric bikes.
Is a JIS screwdriver what they used to call a cabinet screwdriver? Just curious. They were similar to a Phillips, but pointed on the point, not flattened like the Phillips. Ah... Reed & Prince is the type if screwdriver I am thinking of...
David W. Mitchell
1999 Honda Valkyrie GL1500C

pancho

#14
Copied from a tool sellers website.........


Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) Screwdrivers!

A little known, but 'troublesome' standard, the Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS for short) is a Pacific Rim phenomenon.  You can never tell where you will find it now - it's everywhere.  But start with the Pacific Rim:  anything of Asian origin is almost certainly going to include it.  The symptom of the problem is when your standard Phillips screwdriver 'hangs up,' and doesn't feel quite right.  The Phillips driver won't go into the JIS Screw all the way because the corner radius of the screw is smaller than that of the Phillips screwdriver!  This is the primary cause of what we know as 'cam-out.'
Oddly enough, the Phillips standard was created to allow this condition so that you knew you had reached maximum torque!
The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.

O-B-1

#15
Well what do you know?  I learned something new today, at age 54, even!  I didn't know that. Thanks.  I had a Master Sergeant  in the USAF tell me one time, "If you don't learn something new each day, you've wasted that day." Seemed right as rain when I heard it, then and still does when I think of it today.
David W. Mitchell
1999 Honda Valkyrie GL1500C

da prez

 Goose , ditto on the grinding compound. A drop of oil and dust from the bench grinder will work also. Screwdrivers , I have some that have a small bit of the tip (point) ground off. It allows a deeper seat into the screw. Another trick is to use a flat punch and tap on the screw to loosen the threads. G E N T L E! A little shock goes a long way.

                                        da prez

BF

My set of electrician's screwdrivers made by Klein work great on every cross-point screw I've come across on the Valk.  

You can find Klein tools at Home Depot.  Dunno about Lowe's.  
I can't help about the shape I'm in
I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin
But don't ask me what I think of you
I might not give the answer that you want me to



KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)

Quote from: BF on Mon 18, May 2015, 07:49:33
My set of electrician's screwdrivers made by Klein work great on every cross-point screw I've come across on the Valk.  

You can find Klein tools at Home Depot.  Dunno about Lowe's.  

Same here from my electrical pouch. Nothing but Klein in that pouch.  :cooldude:


gordonv

Once I had one cover screw tight, I went out and spent about $10 and bought a screw punch (? someone else will have the proper name for it). A twist and a couple of taps and out it came.
1999 Black with custom paint IS


Anthony

sometimes it helps to turn a damaged screw, which is usually only damaged in the direction 'out', first slightly in, just to break it loose, and then it comes out a lot easier.
Anthony

mustang071965

i have the screw extractor remover that you see on tv. it works. also sears has a set like it to.

DK

#23
I sometimes cut a slot with a Dremel cut off wheel and use a blade screwdriver.

Your particular screw would require an almost used up ( small diameter ) cut off wheel.

There was a recent thread on everyone's favorite penetrating oil.

Dan
Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.

da prez

gordonv , impact screwdriver is the word you were looking for.

                           da prez