VRCC Calendar Ad

Changing Fork Seals Without Removing....

Started by Steve K (IA), Tue 10, Mar 2009, 13:59:14

Previous topic - Next topic

Steve K (IA)

the forks.  Seen this post about 2-3 weeks ago and should of copied to a Word Doc. and didn't.  Now I can't find it.  The archives stop at Dec. 2008. 
I can't remember who made the post.  If the original poster see's this or someone saved the instructions, could you please re post or forward on to me?
Thanks,
Steve K

States I Have Ridden In


longrider

I scanned this from the hard copies I keep for info while servicing.  Hope this helps

Fork seals - (without removing fork tubes from valk)

I successfully changed my Fork seals this weekend (with the help of info & photos by Big BF & Britman. I did buy the Honda pipe bolt Nut Remover Tool (44mm) (which I did not use). 5/23/2006
So:   if you are just going to change the "seals" and/or the fork "bushings" you do not have to remove the Left #11 Fork Pipe Bolt or the Right #19 Nut & #6 spring Seat, which hold in the springs. iust remove the top "Fork cap #18 AND the "Dust seal #27 then the "seal Retainer clip #17 , then the Slider legs will come out with the springs still internally captivated. )ust a few firm slides of the slider leg against the old seal and she'll pop right out.
Now another Trick: I did not remove the Fork Tubes from the valk. I jacked the bike up on my Jak-Lift high enough so that I could pull the sliders down out of the Fork Upper Tubes. of course the oil came out too, but that i directed (mostly) into my drain pan by wrapping newspaper around the Fork Tube.
I changed my Fork Bushings too, there was a little play in them (4 bushings aprox $35.). The Seals ran me $36. (all Honda parts). Took me about 3 hours. Then I had to replace wheel.

Motorvalk

Where did you get your U.S map that you can color the states you've visited? Been looking for one of those.

Alvin

longrider


valkeire


I had to replace a front fork seal over the weekend, and this time I did it a little differently. The last time I replaced one, I found it a bit difficult to press in the strut seal.

Before, I used both the half seal and some plastic tube to fit the seal. It is not easy to get a clean insertion in as far as the circlip groove.

This time I put the old seal on the slider between the new seal and the dust seal.

After inserting the slider into the upper tube, it was much easier to drive the new seal into the upper tube using the old seal. I used the square plastic handle of a t bar allen key  wrench as a driver, and a few taps of a plastic mallet. It was easy to hold, and with the old seal in one piece, went in first time up to the groove. Circlip went in first time.

I just then pulled the old seal down to near of the end of the slider, slid a feeler guage blade between the tube and old seal for protection. Then with a small grinder I cut the old seal off.

It was then just a matter of sliding up the new dust seal into place.

Valkeire




 

Ken 11861

Steve K & Longrider,

I made that post on the "Fork Seals without removing fork tubes" again on 2/25/2009, but originally in 2006. Too bad we seem to have lost some of the archive sources and with that the credability some of us had built up over the years here.

It looks like I just signed on but was a member since 2001.

Such is life  :)
2001 Valk (72,500 5/2011) & 2009 ST1300 (new 5/10)

Black Pearl's Captain

#7
The only thing lost so far is your patience.

Just ask and we may be able to help Ken. Give the staff a little credit, the archives are saved so you're still a Tech Board guru.

Look above the start of this thread you will see a link to the archives labeled "Old Tech Archive": http://www.valkyrieforum.com/forum/tech_archive.cgi

The old board is also still there and you can go surf it like you always did: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/forum/vrcc_tech.cgi

Raymond

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/forum/vrcc_tech.cgi?read=1448684




2tonevalk

Here is the website that helped me with mine.
Hope it helps.
http://www.valkyrienorway.com/forksprings.html

Ride safe
Robert

Ken 11861

By request I posted "Fork Seals Replace" (2/25/2009 10:59:33) I have the hard copy so I would not have to look up the info again.
I have search for this post in Old Tech Archives and I could only see posts up to 10 Dec 08. So I went to the current search and could only get back (8 pages) to 2 Mar 09.
To me there seems to be a gap.
Would appreciate guidance.
2001 Valk (72,500 5/2011) & 2009 ST1300 (new 5/10)

Scott in Ok

Quote from: Ken 11861 on Tue 17, Mar 2009, 07:03:33
By request I posted "Fork Seals Replace" (2/25/2009 10:59:33) I have the hard copy so I would not have to look up the info again.
I have search for this post in Old Tech Archives and I could only see posts up to 10 Dec 08. So I went to the current search and could only get back (8 pages) to 2 Mar 09.
To me there seems to be a gap.
Would appreciate guidance.


I just checked, and the current search goes back to December of '08, right where the Archives leave off.  Very soon, it will all be in the Archives.

Another problem with searching for posts by specific people on the old board is alot of you never typed your handle the same each time.  Ken for example, you used Ken 11861, 11861 Ken, Ken#11861, KEN11861, Ken Hill, ken Hill, Ken Hill 11861, and Ken #11861.

Of course, that can't happen now.  You're stuck with this one handle. :)

-Scott
Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers!

Ken 11861

Thanks Scott

You got me clean ... I sure used a lot of handles. I appreciate your info & patience.

Ken
2001 Valk (72,500 5/2011) & 2009 ST1300 (new 5/10)

Quicksilver

Longrider, how did you determine the amount of oil you had in the fork. I just changed the seal in my left fork. I removed it from the bike completely and used the method described at http://twowheeled.net/ForkSeal.htm. It worked well to replace the seal, however when it came time to add the oil, it says to compress the fork completely and measure down from the top 135mm(5.3 in). If I do this the castle nut blocks the top of the tube preventing access to the oil below for measuring. I'm wondering if I missunderstood compress the fork completely. If I compress it until the rod at the top of the spring is flush with the top of the tube I can dip the tube for oil level. In thinking about it, I figure there is a column of air above the oil 5.3 inches in length that is needed. So the air is compressed by the oil when the fork is compressed. Bottom line is how did you measure the oil level.
Thanks
Quicksiver
1997  Standard


Ken 11861

Because my fork tubes were completely drained I filled them by cc volume amount given in the Honda Manual. That worked out perfect,been running since Sept 2006 on that seal & oil change.

If you want a good Fork Seal thread see old tech archived archives, do the range Aug 1 thru Nov 1, 2006
2001 Valk (72,500 5/2011) & 2009 ST1300 (new 5/10)

F6Dave

Back a few years ago Chet posted a great article on this subject with pics.  He changed the seals without removing the forks from the clamps, and without using Honda's special tool.  I've done it both ways and his method saves hours of time.  I think I kept it on another computer as a PDF so I'll take a look.

F6Dave

I found Chet's post on changing seals with forks on the bike and no special tool.  I can email the PDF if anyone wants it.

Valker

Quote from: F6Dave on Fri 01, May 2009, 20:53:07
I found Chet's post on changing seals with forks on the bike and no special tool.  I can email the PDF if anyone wants it.
I'd like it: Valker1(AT)hotmail.com
I ride a motorcycle because nothing transports me as quickly from where I am to who I am.

Disco

I'd like it, too.

dfgarbOBVIOUS@tx.rr.com

Thanks
2000 Bumblebee Tourer, 98 Yellow & Cream Tourer, 97 Rescue blower bike
22 CRF450RL, 19 BMW R1250RT
78 CB550K, 07 Helix
71 MT50 Trailhopper


VRCC 27,916                  IBA 44,783


PAVALKER

John                           

KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)


Steve K (IA)

I know I posted this original question, but I found out there is no reason at all to do this job without slipping the upper tubes out of the tree.  Do only one at a time.  It will be much easier to drive the seals in when you can turn the legs upside down.
To make less of an oily mess, loosen the top pinch bolt.  Unscrew top cap.  Loosen 2 lower pinch bolts and slide out.  Hang onto both tubes so the lower leg doesn't compress and pour the oil out into whatever container you are using.  Slip a knife between the dust seal and the upper tube and dislodge that seal.  Now with a small screw driver, get the keeper wire out.  Slip the leg back into the tree...tighten the lower bolts, unscrew the top cap from the inner rod.  Now put your drain pan under the leg and give a couple of downward pulls on the lower leg to pop the oil seal out.
Believe me, you will have less mess doing it this way.  It's one of those don't ask "things". :-X

States I Have Ridden In

Dag

Quote from: F6Dave on Fri 01, May 2009, 20:53:07
I found Chet's post on changing seals with forks on the bike and no special tool.  I can email the PDF if anyone wants it.

Yes please.... post@valkyrienorway.com
The question is not what you look at...but what you see...

John U.

Quote from: Dag on Sat 12, Sep 2009, 16:52:14
Quote from: F6Dave on Fri 01, May 2009, 20:53:07
I found Chet's post on changing seals with forks on the bike and no special tool.  I can email the PDF if anyone wants it.

Me too please: betesme(no spam)@mchsi.com
Thanks

BudMan

Buddy
Tecumseh OK
MOOT# 263
VRCC # 30158
1948 EL Harley
2013 F6B Delux
"I rarely end up where I was intending to go, but often I end up somewhere that I needed to be,"
Dirk Gently; Holistic Detective

Darren


HayHauler

I would like a copy of that PDF also please.

k5jtj at hotmail dot com

Thanks!
Hay  8)
Jimmyt
VRCC# 28963

roboto65

If I could trouble you out of a copy of the PDF to brit4a at yahoo.com  Thanks!!!
Allen Rugg                                                       
VRCC #30806
1999 Illusion Blue Valkyrie Interstate
1978 Kawasaki KZ 650 project

old grouch

I would also love to have copy.  stanpam431@msn.com    Thanks, Stan


Don't float thru life, MAKE WAVES!
09/11/01 NEVER FORGET!

John U.

Neglected my Email Address: betesme@mchsidotcom
Thanks

PSUbag

Me too, please.

psubag@valkyrieriders.com

Thank you!

humshark

F6DaVE

Please send to 1humshark@gmail.com   

I have parts arriving any day!
99 Interstate
05 FJR
97 Vulcan '88' Hacked

F6Dave

I got a lot of requests to mail out the PDF where Chet describes the easy way to change fork seals.  I know I missed a few people so I've posted a link to the file so everyone can get it.  Here it is:

http://f6dave.dchealy.com/fork-seal-change.pdf

BudMan

Perfect.
Thank you so much!  :cooldude:
(Now I can't misplace the document.)
Buddy
Tecumseh OK
MOOT# 263
VRCC # 30158
1948 EL Harley
2013 F6B Delux
"I rarely end up where I was intending to go, but often I end up somewhere that I needed to be,"
Dirk Gently; Holistic Detective

Mike S.

Quote from: F6Dave on Wed 16, Sep 2009, 08:43:24
I got a lot of requests to mail out the PDF where Chet describes the easy way to change fork seals.  I know I missed a few people so I've posted a link to the file so everyone can get it.  Here it is:

http://f6dave.dchealy.com/fork-seal-change.pdf

I am guessing there is no way to get this pdf? The link no longer works - I know, late to the party!!!
Semper Fi!
Mike

There is no fair in fight, no cheat in win!

Jess from VA

Anything that popular should go on Shop Talk.

bentwrench


greggh

Quote from: F6Dave on Fri 01, May 2009, 20:53:07
I found Chet's post on changing seals with forks on the bike and no special tool.  I can email the PDF if anyone wants it.

I will take a copy, please.  I am changing my seals this Friday.   Greggh@Cox.net   
Again please and thank you
Greggh

teadream42


Mgbringo

A copy for me too please.    Mgbringo at msn.com

Thank you.